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Hi again:
The angle at about 45* is right for the outlet. Hmm I bought the stock hose for the 302 EFI and have no problems. I have a note book with all the changes. When it is time to order parts you can tell the parts guy what year and from what car or truck it is from . My 1986 truck , engin from 1982 carbureted, EFI off 1989 E250 van, computer off a 1990 302 mustang etc.
I have a question for you, are you going to run the ford code scanner on the truck?
I started with 6 codes on the first test, key on engin off. Down to two more to go. You need to clear all the codes on the first test. Than it will let you check the codes for the key on engine on test.
This project never goes away
Us ford guys that do simple engin swaps are like master mechanics, to concur all the different things ford puts together. We are challenged a lot more than the chevy guys.
Mine has a 90deg bend and hose still contacts tensioner. You can probably steal the one off of the 302 and use it with your old rad hose.
Mine came from a van and supposedly had 190km (approx 115 miles) on the odometer (which I never saw). The guy I bought it from had never heard it run either, I figured if it was gone I would just drop the EFI on another motor I had sitting around. Still pulls hard for the mileage and no ticks or knocks or anything. I was pleasantly surprised.
Those Ford cats are pretty quiet. I was running my 302 with the cats only - no muffler - and it was much much MUCH quieter than the dual glasspacks - no cats - that I'm running for the next year and a half until I have to go for my emissions test.
Glad to hear its up and running great for you and congratulations on your successful power boost :-)
1979 F150 Custom: nothing under the hood at all (again)
1987 F150 XLT Lariat: 88 351W EFI
75 351W: soon to have 91 heads, ?? cam, double roller timing chain, Edelbrock Performer intake & Holley carb and be put back in 79 F150
84 351W: waiting for ???
Chevy 454: waiting for a truck (Mazda?Nissan?)
I just got back from Pep Boys, the HELP! catalog listed the elbow for the PCV valve and they had one there..$3.00. On the PCV valve itself does either of you guys have 2 connections on yours? The one listed at the parts store has a large connector for the intake manifold and a smaller, looks like, vacuum connector on it. Could that be because it doesn't sit straight up and needs the extra vacuum to operate properly? The plenum had an extra vacuum outlet on it and I figured maybe that was what it was for. The valve off the 5.0 doesn't have the extra port on it.
Yes, I will run the code checker later on...right now I just wanna drive the thing.
That was funny when I re-read it....at least to me. I've been driving my VW Thing while the truck was out of commission. (It's Friday and I went next door a bit ago and snagged one of their beers....I'm gonna do it again right now).
Mine just has one line into the intake. Most replacement PCV valves I have seen have the extra port and then a plug comes with it if you aren't using it.
BTW, I think I lied about my rad hose. I think the thermostat has a 45 bend in it, and then the hose has another 45 to go vertical. Nevertheless, still rubs against tensioner, especially since I'm still using the 302 alternator bracket which mounts the tensioner in a different position than the 351 bracket.
I've never run the codes on my truck, it runs well enough not to bother me. And my check light doesn't work either, not even after I put a bulb in it. Oh well.
1979 F150 Custom: nothing under the hood at all (again)
1987 F150 XLT Lariat: 88 351W EFI
75 351W: soon to have 91 heads, ?? cam, double roller timing chain, Edelbrock Performer intake & Holley carb and be put back in 79 F150
84 351W: waiting for ???
Chevy 454: waiting for a truck (Mazda?Nissan?)
With my home made set up for th PVC. I made sure it was in the up right position. It sounds like you need another part to finish the job right.
As far as why the code scan. In my case I did a frame off restoration plus the engin swap. I want to get my moneys worth plus get it to run as good as possible. That way it should get the best fuel economy also.
Hi loudfords:
My truck was up and running pretty good and I got the 6 codes. I'm getting it running better all the time. It's just taking alot of hair pulling. If you ever run the test I would really like to hear how it went!
Mornin' guys.
I was in Phoenix all weekend so didn't have time to work on the truck until last night. I went to the auto parts store to see if I could find the rest of the trivial stuff I needed to finish up. There was a young guy behind the counter and when I explained what I was doing he said to come on in the back and just look through the hoses and fittings. We went back and he spotted one hose right away that will work perfectly for the PCV valve. It may not hold up as long as the regular hose would but at least it will work. Then we compared radiator hoses and the one for the '91 Bronco is different. I can see why it hits on the back of the tensioner so, when I installed it, I cut about 1" off the end and everything clears just fine. It was really nice to run into someone at a large chain auto parts store (especially a young guy now-a-days) that understands and would take the time to search through stuff with/for you.
When I got home and installed everything I couldn't resist trying it out. What an improvement!! I just roared down the street and up the hill a bit but WOW. It stutters a little (minor) and the tranny is acting a bit weird but I may have the kick-down hooked up a little out of position..that's what it feels like anyway. It shifts nice and positive from 1st to 2nd but doesn't want to go into 3rd or OD. In 3rd, when I let off, it just coasts like it's in neutral. I'll disconnect the kick-down linkage tonight and see what that does.
OK, guys. I have no 3rd or OD. 1st and 2nd are OK but I just free-wheel in the spor where 3rd should be. Anything to do with the kick-down (which I did disconnect and try...bad)or do I just have a bad tranny? I still have time on my warranty so I can ride my bike the 25 miles and pick up another one.
I don't have any experience with AOD's yet. Are you sure the shifter linkage is connected properly? I had problems finding gears in my truck until I had it hooked up right.
1979 F150 Custom: nothing under the hood at all (again)
1987 F150 XLT Lariat: 88 351W EFI
75 351W: soon to have 91 heads, ?? cam, double roller timing chain, Edelbrock Performer intake & Holley carb and be put back in 79 F150
84 351W: waiting for ???
Chevy 454: waiting for a truck (Mazda?Nissan?)
Hi:
Just looked at one of my shop manuals. The throttle valve (TV) control linkage has a huge affect on the operation of 3 and OD. I would start looking there. Also call the trans place they don't want any returns, they my give you some areas to look at.
Do you have Fords shop manul or any other kind?
I guess you wont have any time to run the code scan this week I have finely cleared all of the codes for the first part of the test. It also passed the timing test. There was one code the showed up for the engin running test. #41 O2 sensors, running lean. I will get that fixed today!
One of the manuals I have shows the adjustment for the kick-down...whatever...linkage. My adjustment is good by that example. With the cable disconnected I had nothing but 1st gear period. With the cable on it will run through 1st and 2nd OK but no matter what I do it won't even touch 3rd, it just free-wheels until I bring up the RPM enough to catch up with 2nd. I'm going to call up the outfit I got everything from and see how much extra it would be to just get a rebuilt.
I would not jump the gun, the trans was working when you bought it right. Maybe that shop can get it working with less effort on your part. Let me know what happens.
I got the last code cleared finely she runs like a champ now
All this stuff came from a wrecking yard. The tranny is not the one that was on back of the engine, that one was already gone. Anyway, I talked to the tranny guy across the street and he said the "no 3rd/OD" is a common problem with the AOD primarily because of a plastic bushing on the TV cable up by the throttle body/carb that goes out and lets the pressure drop to the clutches/bands. This lets them slip and they will burn out very quickly. The fix is to replace the plastic bushing with a brass one before you burn up the autobox. I'm in the process of yanking the tranny now but I have a benefit golf/drinking match today and probably won't get it out until Sunday.
Sorry to hear about the burnt up 3rd and OD in the tranny. Is it possible that the yard gave (sold) you a returned core? I have seen the bushing that holds the throttle feedback cable fall apart, Can you let us know more about this brass replacement? With the small diameter of the direct drive clutches (for 3rd) and how few of them are in the clutch pack as well as the narrow 1.5" wide OD band, the AOD needs all the pressure it can get to engage these things. To make matters worse, the factory cuts back the pressure in the AOD in 3rd and OD to save on energy consumption. I installed a Baumann Engineering shift kit in my AOD and one of the mods that you can do is to bypass this pressure cutback so it maintains the full pressure to the tranny at all times. This firms up the shifting and helps prevent slippage. Look Baumann Engineering up on the web and they have a extensive description of Ford trannys and what can be done with them. Is the tranny a 1988 or newer? IF older it missed out on some much needed redesignes from Ford. I could go way on, better you go to the web page. Good luck, John
I'd read most of the info on the page you mentioned. What I finally decided to do for right now is put the original tranny back in. It has a boat load of miles but I know it works. Later on I'll up-grade to a fresh one, maybe even rebuilt it myself. I've done C-4's before so it shouldn't be to much different. That will give me some time to forget what a PITA it is doing this.