302 EFI 89 problem
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2015
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302 EFI 89 problem
problem is that recently i noticed that under load engine starts to struggle. In idle there is no problem at all. It revs and idles exelent. When it starts to drive easily it is kind of ok on flat road, if there is a uphill or more aggresive start problem shows up quicker. But other than that it shows up in the moment when second gear is shifting and after that all the time.
until this problem i played with timing a lot and kind of stopped on 10 degrees, it was riding good exept of week engine in general. Start was very quick and easy too. Then i checked my compression and it was from 105 to 125. After that i put tahometer and connected it to green wire that came out of coil to distributor. Than it was a wile and the problem with struggling shoved up.
Today i kind of found temporary solution for this problem. Tryed to change timing again in one and other way and found out that in left end position if looking from front of the car car starts tough, from second time bit when it starts it runs pretty good. What could cause this ?
My guess could be bad wiring between coil and distributor, ecu (by the way, where is it located ?), plugs wires (changed recently), pcv valve, something else ? Could tightening rocker arms solve some of this problem?
So maybe anyone have expirienced something similar or has some idea where to dig ? Thanks and sorry for bad english.
until this problem i played with timing a lot and kind of stopped on 10 degrees, it was riding good exept of week engine in general. Start was very quick and easy too. Then i checked my compression and it was from 105 to 125. After that i put tahometer and connected it to green wire that came out of coil to distributor. Than it was a wile and the problem with struggling shoved up.
Today i kind of found temporary solution for this problem. Tryed to change timing again in one and other way and found out that in left end position if looking from front of the car car starts tough, from second time bit when it starts it runs pretty good. What could cause this ?
My guess could be bad wiring between coil and distributor, ecu (by the way, where is it located ?), plugs wires (changed recently), pcv valve, something else ? Could tightening rocker arms solve some of this problem?
So maybe anyone have expirienced something similar or has some idea where to dig ? Thanks and sorry for bad english.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
You should check fuel pressure, the motor will run with 20psi but it won't make any power, normal pressure is about 40psi with vacuum removed from the regulator and engine running. Typical causes are clogged filter or a failing pump.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2015
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yes i disconnected it. But das it change anything ? Where is ecu located on this van ? Where is usually ground between motor and frame located ?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2015
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recently changed filter and pump. How to check that pressure ?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2015
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i have not changed the pump in tank.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
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Mountain Pass
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what changes when i turn distributor with that in place ?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
You need to get a fuel pressure gauge with a Schrader valve socket. The fuel rail has a Schrader valve near the front, looks like a tire valve. The one I got requires you to remove the valve core from the valve on the fuel rail. Obviously, do this with the engine off. Even then, if you've had the engine running recently, use a small screwdriver to push in the pin of the valve core to release the residual pressure. Be careful doing this, as fuel will squirt out. Then you screw the gauge onto it, and run the engine to check pressure. With the vacuum line removed from the regulator (near the back), it should read about 40 psi. This at least checks static pressure. A weak pump can show good static pressure, but may not be able to keep up when the vehicle is under load.
I'm a little confused about the pump you said you replaced and did not replace. Do the vans have 2 pumps?
I once replaced a fuel filter just because of its age. The new one I got started acting up pretty soon after installation. It was as if it hd debris inside, and if I hit a bump, it would clog the filter, I would have to stop the engine, and therefore the fuel pump, to let the stuff "fall out", then I could drive again. In this case, I was better off keeping the original filter. The replacement was a Fram.
I'm a little confused about the pump you said you replaced and did not replace. Do the vans have 2 pumps?
I once replaced a fuel filter just because of its age. The new one I got started acting up pretty soon after installation. It was as if it hd debris inside, and if I hit a bump, it would clog the filter, I would have to stop the engine, and therefore the fuel pump, to let the stuff "fall out", then I could drive again. In this case, I was better off keeping the original filter. The replacement was a Fram.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 120
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You need to get a fuel pressure gauge with a Schrader valve socket. The fuel rail has a Schrader valve near the front, looks like a tire valve. The one I got requires you to remove the valve core from the valve on the fuel rail. Obviously, do this with the engine off. Even then, if you've had the engine running recently, use a small screwdriver to push in the pin of the valve core to release the residual pressure. Be careful doing this, as fuel will squirt out. Then you screw the gauge onto it, and run the engine to check pressure. With the vacuum line removed from the regulator (near the back), it should read about 40 psi. This at least checks static pressure. A weak pump can show good static pressure, but may not be able to keep up when the vehicle is under load.
I'm a little confused about the pump you said you replaced and did not replace. Do the vans have 2 pumps?
I once replaced a fuel filter just because of its age. The new one I got started acting up pretty soon after installation. It was as if it hd debris inside, and if I hit a bump, it would clog the filter, I would have to stop the engine, and therefore the fuel pump, to let the stuff "fall out", then I could drive again. In this case, I was better off keeping the original filter. The replacement was a Fram.
I'm a little confused about the pump you said you replaced and did not replace. Do the vans have 2 pumps?
I once replaced a fuel filter just because of its age. The new one I got started acting up pretty soon after installation. It was as if it hd debris inside, and if I hit a bump, it would clog the filter, I would have to stop the engine, and therefore the fuel pump, to let the stuff "fall out", then I could drive again. In this case, I was better off keeping the original filter. The replacement was a Fram.
i will take the pfoto tommorow because i did not quite understand where that vacum line to regulator is.
i have two fuel pumps, one is in the fuel tank, other is outside it near the fuel filter. I did not replace that filter in the tank. How can i check if the new filter is clogged ? Or should i just try old filter ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,017
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From: SoCal
I think the only ways to know if the fuel filter is clogged is if you lose fuel pressure under load, which can also result in loss of power. But the gauge is what can tell you for sure. In my case, the engine would stall when the filter started to act up.
Unfortunately, unless you can run the can on a dyno, you need to some how position the pressure gauge such that you can see it when you load the engine. The Mustang folks do this, and the aftermarket catered to them by providing such a gauge. But I've heard that they don't work very well, and often leaked.
Unfortunately, unless you can run the can on a dyno, you need to some how position the pressure gauge such that you can see it when you load the engine. The Mustang folks do this, and the aftermarket catered to them by providing such a gauge. But I've heard that they don't work very well, and often leaked.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I think the only ways to know if the fuel filter is clogged is if you lose fuel pressure under load, which can also result in loss of power. But the gauge is what can tell you for sure. In my case, the engine would stall when the filter started to act up.
Unfortunately, unless you can run the can on a dyno, you need to some how position the pressure gauge such that you can see it when you load the engine. The Mustang folks do this, and the aftermarket catered to them by providing such a gauge. But I've heard that they don't work very well, and often leaked.
Unfortunately, unless you can run the can on a dyno, you need to some how position the pressure gauge such that you can see it when you load the engine. The Mustang folks do this, and the aftermarket catered to them by providing such a gauge. But I've heard that they don't work very well, and often leaked.