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cold start issue

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Old Dec 14, 2018 | 07:15 AM
  #16  
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That would have been a real leap of faith for me. An impact on plastic would make me very anxious. I did order a new fuel filter, a real stainless one. The exact same one that's in the vehicle now. Almost bought one at the local parts house but after seeing the poor quality that Wix offered I opted to buy online. Not only cheaper but a nice quality SS part.
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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 03:28 PM
  #17  
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So today I finally checked fuel pressure. I got 66 psi at the rail at idle. Pressure dropped off to about 62 psi after shutdown and am currently checking to see how long it takes to bleed down. So for the last 15 minutes the pressure has remained at 62 psi. I checked this after having driven the vehicle, so essentially the motor was up to temp. I need to recheck this when the motor is cold, first start in the morning and see if there are any differences.
BTW, I tried but could not replace the fuel filter. The single hose that you use the special tool on came off with no problem. But the plastic fittings (mine are purple in color) that keep the other 2 lines on were beyond my patience. I tried for over an hour, keeping in mind I was removing a plastic fitting that had been in place since probably when the car was new. I DID NOT WANT TO BREAK ANYTHING. So until I can figure out how to get those fittings off I'm leaving the old filter in place.
What do you folks think? I think 66 psi at idle is good? And if the filter were clogged it would read much lower? Do you think a cold start pressure test will help diagnose my issue ?
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 08:17 AM
  #18  
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Yes, taking a reading on a cold engine, when just turning the key to the Run position (not starting the engine) is an important measurement since that's the scenario you have the concern with.

-Rod
 
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 08:31 AM
  #19  
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Hello Rod,
I should add that when I took the initial reading the system had been depressurized. I turned the key to the run position and left it there to check the gauge and found no pressure reading.
That seemed odd to me as I thought the fuel pump should run (KOEO) to pressurize the rail. Maybe an issue with the fuel pump relay?

Also, I think I have the fuel filter release fittings figured out, will try again today if weather permits.
Thanks again Rod,
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 08:13 PM
  #20  
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You're correct, the rail should pressurize when the key is turned to the Run position after it's been off/sitting for more than a few seconds. Since you mentioned previously that if you cycle the key a second time it will usually start fine, that's the same sequence you should monitor with the fuel rail pressure gauge connected. Turn the key to Run on a cold engine, leave in the Run position for 5 seconds or so, turn the key off, record the fuel rail pressure, cycle the key to Run again, turn off after about 5 seconds, record the fuel rail pressure. If the pressure only gets within specification after multiple cycles of the key, that would suggest either a fuel pump issue or a restriction in the fuel line.

-Rod
 
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 10:47 PM
  #21  
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Finally got the fuel filter installed. Biggest issue were those plastic fittings on the end with 2 hoses. That seems an odd setup, why 2 inlets?
How bad does that element look?
 

Last edited by jcris; Dec 26, 2018 at 11:06 PM. Reason: add pics
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Old Dec 27, 2018 | 07:38 AM
  #22  
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That filter looks pretty nasty. It was definitely worth your frustration to change it out!

-Rod
 
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Old Dec 30, 2018 | 10:25 AM
  #23  
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Checked fuel pressure at the rail this morning. Ambient temp about 33. With key off pressure was at zero. I'm a little surprised the pressure drained down completely overnight, not sure if thats normal?
With key on engine off, the first test showed about 58 psi. Second test KOEO showed closer to 60 psi. Also noted when key was turned off the pressure started slowly dropping right away . After these tests I started the motor and it started normally. I'm not sure how to interpret these results. They seem normal but are they correct? Could there still be a restriction somewhere? Or or does this scenario eliminate the fuel pressure as a possible problem. I will continue to monitor how it starts when cold for the next several days
Jcris
Just now checked the system with a scanner and P0351 came up. First I've seen of that one. I did notice after the fuel pressure checks early this morning that , once started it seemed to be idling a bit rough. Which I've also not noticed before. Maybe I messed with something and didn't realize it. I'm going to pull plug number one and just take a look.
Got the plug out and what do you know, the darn insulator is cracked. Seems like that could contribute to a P0351?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2018 | 09:15 AM
  #24  
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I'm not surprised that the fuel rail pressure dropped to zero overnight. I'm also not surprised that the pressure started dropping as soon as the key was turned off, but keep that in mind as you continue to monitor the cold start issue.

Hopefully a new spark plug for cylinder 1 will fix the P0351 and rough idle, but if not, it's possible that bad plug may have damaged the ignition coil since that's what a P0351 tends to point to more than a single cylinder misfire.

-Rod
 
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Old Dec 31, 2018 | 10:49 AM
  #25  
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Hey Rod,
I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft and drove it once last night. Seemed good, We'll see. That cracked insulator on the Autolite plug really surprised me. I try to pull and inspect the plugs once in awhile. That job , for me is always about re-learning how to get around that motor. I reset three codes with my scanner: P0316 (misfire) , P0351 (ignition coil) and damned if I can remember the other, maybe P0306 (cyl #6 misfire). So it seems the cracked insulator (cyl #4) wasn't the cause and maybe just poor plug choice or coincidense. Maybe that coil is suspect, It's 16 years old with 175K, which makes a lot of stuff on this vehicle suspect. Is there a good aftermarket brand? Motorcraft can be $$$. The search for a new coil is underway. Is there a suitable aftermarket coil that would be worth checking out? Standard Motor products makes an OEM replacement thats half the price of Motorcraft? Probably best to stay with Motorcraft on this completely stk motor? All this makes me wonder what the service life on a solid state coil is, lifetime? I've got some new wires as well. One last question, what potential damage can this coil do, I mean could it damage the PCM in some way?
What do you think?
Jcris
 
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Old Dec 31, 2018 | 04:25 PM
  #26  
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If it drives fine and you no longer get a diagnostic code for the coil, I wouldn't worry about it. However, if the P0351 remains, then going with the Standard Motor part is likely a sufficient substitute. Years ago I bought new COPs for a Lincoln LS because they were inexpensive compared to Motorcraft and they were in stock. I was happy to see when I opened the boxes that all 8 of them were stamped "Motorcraft" and had the Motorcraft part number stamped on them.

-Rod
 
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Old Jan 1, 2019 | 09:58 AM
  #27  
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I appreciate the insight,
I'll scan the system each day and see if anything comes up. For now it's running good and the cold start issue seems improved. It seems to be starting better overall but maybe thats just wishful on my part. Time will tell. Today I'll do new ignition wires. Up next I have to replace a leaking passenger front axle seal.
Until then I hope you had a safe and enjoyable New Years
Jcris
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 12:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jcris
Until then I hope you had a safe and enjoyable New Years
Jcris
Thanks, I did.
 
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