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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

inline tubing flaring

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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 09:03 AM
  #1  
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inline tubing flaring

thought I posted this last nite but no sign of it ... I'm looking for a 'tool' that can make "bubble" flares in the
body of tubing, not on the ends.. to make a stop for the screw clamp to hold against... something
like this. Any ideas or anyone know how these are made ??? Looks almost like something was inserted
into the tube then expanded somehow... then 'despanded' and removed... Material will be 1/2-5/8" alum tube.
john


 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 09:14 AM
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Google metal tubing beading tool. You might also try calling local radiator shops to see if they have some if you only need a few done.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 09:55 AM
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You might also try a commercial mechanical contractor/plumber that works with commercial refrigeration, or a shop that works with big-truck/heavy equipment hydraulics and diesel injection systems.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 10:23 AM
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thanks Beav... just didn;t know the proper term to use... found several but not willing to spend 60 bucks for the cheapest + shipping for maybe 4 beads. I think I'll just put a bubble bead on the end and clamp well. This is low pressure tubing, less than 20 #s

Effie, I do have a friend that is a good fleet mechanic, I might check with him and see about availabillity.

sometimes I tend to overthink or create a problem where not actually exist !

john
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 10:57 AM
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I agree on the not having one due to the price vs. how little I'd use one. Plus the cheap ones don't do a close to decent job Tripping over one from the '40s at a swap meet would probably motivate me but it's not high on my priority list
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 11:39 AM
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I've overthunk this one before, too. I found that you can make too big of a hump and create a problem with the hose not fitting over the tubing well, and creating a high spot which can lead to hose failure. My solution was to utilize the first step of a double flare tubing bender just slightly, enough to create a lip and hold the clamp from sliding off, but not so large that you struggle with pushing the hose past it.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 12:09 PM
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I have had success using the push connect dies with my dads flare tool, but only compressing it slightly to get a ridge rather than all the way to get the large lip.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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I just had a thought (did you see the smoke? ) Why not use a brass compression ferrule and sweat it on the tube? I suppose it you were industrious enough you could even file off the ramp on one side and make it into a barb or even do several for multiple barbs. Or... you could use the compression fitting whole, tighten it down so the ferrule crimps on then cut the nut off from the tube.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 12:58 PM
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Having retired from the HVAC/R industry, I can tell you we never made any flares that looked like that. The only purpose for a flare like that is exactly what you are going to do with it, hold a hose in place. We never had an application like that.

Later!
Mr. Ed
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 01:12 PM
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hey Ed, well, that's what Vintage Air did and yes it's just to give the clamp a stop. I'm having trouble finding a beading tool for 5/8" tubing that isn't too expensive for the project. I'd hate to spend 60 bucks + shipping for a tool I'll use maybe 4 times.

Beav... that compression ring might be workable... I'll look into that, thanks.

john
 
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Old Nov 16, 2018 | 06:31 PM
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As soon as I saw your post, I was like.... finally something I can help with.

Try this with needle nose vise grips?





Or search for tubing bead tool....
 
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Old Nov 16, 2018 | 09:29 PM
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saw those before CV but I gotta bead 5/8" alum tube and that won't fit... but maybe some skinny needle nose
 
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Old Nov 17, 2018 | 01:57 PM
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Instead of welding all that crap to a curved locking plier use the flat needle nose version of a locking plier and use a grinder to cut half round on one jaw and tack a small piece of solid rod on the opposite jaw that fits into the grooved opposite jaw. Small and compact, would fit into your 5/8" tube and be strong enough for copper and aluminum.
 
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