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Guys & gals. We just spent the last five hours installing two Direct Electronics 535T modules just behind my drivers door panel in my 2001 F250 Super Duty.
I do not have any type of alarm system at all.
But, alas things are not working correctly. My installer used to work directly for Direct Electronics for years.
Seems the programming learning stage is not going well.
Seems the drivers door switch may be unable to do more than it's original design for one touch down only.
Anyone out there with experience in this project?
Again, I do not have any type of alarm system at all.
All types of good advice would be helpful.
Thank you in advance for your time and effort spent on my behalf!!
Update. We got the windows to go up and down one touch, all four.
But any resistance then causes the window to not roll all the way up or down. Meaning due to my vehicle's age, the drivers window needs more button pushing to get it to roll down all the way.
But, more importantly I now have lost the 10 minute power window delay after I turn off ignition.
Once again, any good advice would be appreciated.
Thank you!!
My tech did do the learn routine, and there was some resistance present during the drivers down function.
It seems that the DE 535T thinks that resistance is the stopping point.
But, more importantly I now have lost the 10 minute power window delay after I turn off ignition.
Once again, any good advice would be appreciated.
Thank you!!
What did your tech friend do with the orange ground when arm wire from both modules? If this wire goes to ground when you turn your key off it will stop all windows from working. Is the red power wire for the modules hooked to the LB/BK wire that feeds the window switches or did he run a new power wire from an ignition source?
As for the windows not always going up or down in one shot, I would rerun the learn routing while pushing the opposite way the window is going so the unit will detect a higher moving current then what the window will normally do and hopefully it will work correctly for you.
I installed these 535T modules without any type of alarm system.
So there is only two things that will stop your windows from working after the key is off. First is removing power from the module, this is what the accessory delay does after 10 minutes or a door is open. The second is the orange wire on the module, when it receives a ground it will prevent all windows from moving.
Where did you get power for the module? Did you take it off of the window switch or run a new power wire? What did you do with the orange wire? Did you cut it off, remove it or used it in some way?
Does the radio work after you turn the key off for a bit and not open the door?
My tech says he did not change the power, that it is constant. Quote from him
" The power source for the windows is unchanged and the modules (535T's Two ) have constant power. "
I thought he ran a new power wire. I know that after some trial he went to the motor and then fed the modules
535T's
The radio still plays until you open the door during the timer phase.
I would pop the door panel off and see if he ran the red power wire from the module to the light blue with black tracer wire that feeds the window switches. At this point all I can think of is he ran a new power wire that’s not hooked into the accessory delay circuit.
Note: depending on where he put the modules and tied into the wiring you mite be able to see the wiring from just popping the switch panel off the door panel.
UPDATE, my tech mistakenly powered the two 535T's with ignition power, not constant power.
After fixing his error all is well, except driver's window does not roll all the way down due to sensed resistance by the 535T
UPDATE, my tech mistakenly powered the two 535T's with ignition power, not constant power.
After fixing his error all is well, except driver's window does not roll all the way down due to sensed resistance by the 535T
Seems my window regulator needs some maintenance
Why didn’t you power the modules from the original window power wire LB/BK? That would of given you the 10 minute delay and prevent anyone from using a coat hanger to push the window buttons and roll them down while the truck is off.
As for the drivers side window not working perfectly, I would try the relearn routing on it while pushing against the side of the window to add resistance so the module will learn a higher valve.
The way it is now ifrythings, I do now have the 10 minute delay.
I did try and give the window resistance for the re-learn procedure, but that made it worse for the learning curve.
I now have lost the 10 minute power window delay after I turn off ignition.
These are not mutual. The alarm system has it's own module and is a stand-alone system. It does integrate with your GEM (e.g. arm/disarm with the door locks) so they are not mutually exclusive, but they do operate independently (each one has its own "brain").
Your GEM controls the 10 minute time delay for your windows/radio, your key fob functions like remote locks and PANIC (which is a misconception...it is a function of the GEM, not your alarm), and some other things.
Originally Posted by marksman76
UPDATE, my tech mistakenly powered the two 535T's with ignition power, not constant power.
Originally Posted by marksman76
I do now have the 10 minute delay.
I'm not sure how the circuitry connects but when you start adding stuff to circuits you can easily bypass functions you had. I trace schematics/diagrams to make sure I know where I'm connecting and how things are affected. Measure (trace) twice, cut once.
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