The petcock on the top of the filter housing shoulld allow you to bleed air from the system. The one on the bottom of the filter drains water.

I've been changing my oil and all of my filters (fuel & coolant) every 5k miles. When you replace the fuel filter make sure you fill it with diesel or ATF and the open the petcock on top to bleed air when you initially crank the engine. Once you have ea steady stream of fuel then you can close the petcock, activate the GPs and start the truck.

 

I should be okay too run it right now not really sure when it was last replaced but I only have driven a couple hundred miles if that and no telling when it was last changed but just need to run it 4 few hours till I get my next filter hopefully and if any of my little return lines( i think) on my injectors with the hose clamps have any damage should I change them out they're not too bad but I changed a couple of ones right next to the main fuel filter and the nozzle cap I think is what it's called that have the nipples the quarter inch hose connect to are spinning at all should I just tighten them up or change those out too I hav a little injector kit that came with the truck that got those and little bit o rings I end up using some so they're not all there but is it does have like some nylon quarter inch hose in there as well and you wouldn't think my IP pump might be going bad as well I mean I haven't really finish this part of it so can't really say but as far as whenever I was getting the truck to run it would run for a couple of miles then all the sudden die and take a couple of hours for it to start back up pretty sure it wasn't getting fuel to the pump for whatever reason probably all that rest build up I'm hoping there was quite a bit the tank and never been dropped and cleaned I mean I know all I can do is just probably wait and see you but whenever you start up there is definitely a lot of white smoke and it just has a hard time idling kind of like skipsthe cool thing is is I do have a spare used IP pump that came with the truck is there a way I can test it and the spare one just in case

 

Yep, they were original equipment on 3208 Cat diesels and worked fine with Cat's fuel system but definitely not with a 6.9 IDI which is totally a different breed of cat (no pun intended) .

 

If your injector return lines are leaking then you should go ahead and replace them. You can get a kit like this to service the fuel injector return lines:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...pair+kit,11219

Just make sure you lube the o-rings on top of the injectors before installing the return line caps. I use high temp wheel bearing/ball joint grease. Also, if you remove the injectors to install the new copper washers make sure the injectors and injector cups are SUPER CLEAN before reinstalling everything.

 

I got a little injector cat came with it it has a little plastic nozzle caps with the nipples on all sides and I'm not sure if those need to be replaced but definitely the hose for sure also any advice on I know this topic has been covered I've looked at other forms but I just want a definitive answer on what I'm running I know a little electric pump is the parts store brand and it's working for now but for the long run I can't really afford it right now as mentioned before to get another better quality so my question is Maybe to prime it I can use the electric pump inline or get a primer bulb but I did hook up the water separator but it's not the stock one it's the Napa brand and I got little patches of clear vinyl I put in there so I can see the fuel and it's getting an intrusion I'm guessing from the return lines and around the electric pump is what I seen it seeping but it's acting like it wants to start I pray like 8 gallons of fuel so it should be about 1/2 tank but basically I just need some advice for my situation specific for I have no money obviously but for now I would Adam plummed around the lift pump

 

This is what I got the hose has a nylon type outter layer never seen that before

 

The return line hose I used had that nylon sheath as well. Does that kit have the copper washers, nylon o-rings and plastic return line fittings?

 

Everything you said except the o rings are rubber plus I forgot to say the nozzle caps with the nipple on both sides spins not sure if that's how I supposed to be or not and the truck did come with a spare IP pump and nozzles correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this truck doesn't have injectors they're just nozzles

 

So as of now got everything hooked up did my best to track down air leak with little day light I had yesterday evening I replaced inline fuel filter and I'm getting fuel through e pump through napa brand water sep but here it an see it sucking air with valve on top of sep closed I tried tweaking it an it has I think a peak right before it gets tight again when opened where it let's the most air out. An the bubling quits an All that's seen is air no fuel until closed again an it's not constant fuel there's still air but I think I might be being retarded an need to mention I didn't try an crank I just got the hot wire from e pump hooked to bat so during all that time the power to the truck wasn't on. When I put fuel lines back on the tank what degree on the outside closest to the passenger an blue on the driver's side of the sending unit. I think that's right? Now I thought about it I'm going to apply "kiss" to this an try an crank ? An I filled up both filters( I though)t a couple days ago but I'm sure it would help to top em both off again cause with truck off pump on there nothing but air pressed in I bypassed lift pump is a 30$ e pump better than lift ? Or what about just using it as a primer as I keep saying I have 0$ so cheaper the better but don't want garbage either aksa how much oil does in yth

 

Yeah, I guess the o-rings are rubber.

Our trucks use In-Direct Injection. The injectors are positioned in a pre-chamber, not the primary combustion chamber. The nozzle is a part of the injector. Check it out!

https://www.thedieselstop.com/conten...9L%20Injectors

 

Yeah that would make sense I remember hearing that but wasn't 100% sure cuz I was told by that by someone else this is my first diesel pickup I've owned and first diesel I worked on and lot of stuff I have done before but especially being a diesel as well a lot of stuff and this is my first time working on I got a gas pickup same year I guess you could say I became a master at hydraulic clutch systems for Ford Brown 10 clutch master cylinder later and two clutches an 2 clutch forks didn't have the internet I leaned everything and had a little bit of over the phone help from my dad no where near correct tools gotta learn the hard way though just in case not like I ever have the just in case I don't have the luxury of shop an tools and as for my other questions got any tips

 

I really need a picture or something of the fuel line hookups on the front tank or can someone tell me I got the blue line on the passenger side of the sending unit and the gray line on the driver side originally I had a vice versa but I'm not sure if I was right

 

That is the correct orientation. They are different sizes so you shouldn't be able to mix them up

 

I know it's a different category that's poison covered as well but I really need some input on what might be going wrong in the bellhousing or the tranny cuz whenever I was driving yesterday it just seized up and wouldn't shift I blead it and it took forever like usual I'm familiar with the 460 same here clutch system and had a good idea of what to do but I'm glad it got it back to normal after a couple hours then a few miles down the road while driving it happens again and this time I could hear some of the bellhousing not normal I don't think wasn't loud but loud enough Dan quit for the night now I try to start it again got started and everything's back to normal just by sitting butt I did notice whenever I depressed the paddle 2 disengage the clutch it isn't making out ringing whining noise but whenever I let off the neutral two let it idle it then makes that noise it's kind of vague but is there I think and I did get under there yesterday and wiggle the clutch fork and there seems to be play when i wiggled it up an down not sure if that's supposed to be like that I'm thinking maybe input shaft bearing? please anyone help thanks

 

Also forgot to mention that when I hit the throttle to give it some fuel while in neutral it seems do be shaking doesn't seem to be normal it's coming from the throttle pedal mainly I think