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I'm in the process of restoring/rebuilding my 84 f150. The radiator has sat open without a cap for a few years now without running. I'm debating between to either replacing it with a new one or have the original one dipped and refurbished
I'm in the process of restoring/rebuilding my 84 f150. The radiator has sat open without a cap for a few years now without running. I'm debating between to either replacing it with a new one or have the original one dipped and refurbished
I bought a new one for my 1984 F150. The old one wasn't leaking, but it was of course 34 years old, grungy and dirty in and out, and the middle tie-bars had both broken off. I was installing a new freshly rebuilt engine, and I wanted the whole cooling system to be fresh with it. The new one was metal unit from RockAuto, and was a nice accurate fit.
I bought a new one for my 1984 F150. The old one wasn't leaking, but it was of course 34 years old, grungy and dirty in and out, and the middle tie-bars had both broken off. I was installing a new freshly rebuilt engine, and I wanted the whole cooling system to be fresh with it. The new one was metal unit from RockAuto, and was a nice accurate fit.
See that's what I'm thinking of doing. The original one is so dirty and it has fluid and water in it but its been sitting for years.
I removed mine from truck, laid it on it's face with radiator cap intact, and poured vinegar into mine and let set for few days. Did that few times, helped a lot.
I removed mine from truck, laid it on it's face with radiator cap intact, and poured vinegar into mine and let set for few days. Did that few times, helped a lot.
Only a few days?
I got you beat mine was about a month.
Filled let sit about 2 weeks, drained & flushes water and repete with fresh vinegar.
I think it helped as I get flow thru it now that I did not see before.
I don't have it on the road so can't say before or after results.
I can say I still see the white crust inside and I now see a little leak on the floor but have not looked into why, maybe this weekend ?
Dave - - - -
Only a few days?
I got you beat mine was about a month.
Filled let sit about 2 weeks, drained & flushes water and repete with fresh vinegar.
I think it helped as I get flow thru it now that I did not see before.
I don't have it on the road so can't say before or after results.
I can say I still see the white crust inside and I now see a little leak on the floor but have not looked into why, maybe this weekend ?
Dave - - - -
That is what im afraid of. Spending all that time cleaning it just to possibly end up with a leak at the end. When a new one is only around $100
If in your situation, I would take the radiator to the radiator shop. Have them inspect, clean, pressure test and re-seal the tanks. I had this done to the radiator from my '86 a number of years ago (it was leaking. Failed gasket) and the cost, $80, was less than half the cost of a new radiator.
That is what im afraid of. Spending all that time cleaning it just to possibly end up with a leak at the end. When a new one is only around $100
For me it was only the 2 gal of vinegar. Once it was filled I just let it sit and I know it could leak after I was done.
The leak, not bad just a really small drip over weeks, it maybe be the lower hose (I hope). I hope to look into it this weekend and throw my psi tester on it to find the leak.
If I got to throw a radiator in it oh well just another new part added to all the rest LOL.
Originally Posted by diggerrigger
If in your situation, I would take the radiator to the radiator shop. Have them inspect, clean, pressure test and re-seal the tanks. I had this done to the radiator from my '86 a number of years ago (it was leaking. Failed gasket) and the cost, $80, was less than half the cost of a new radiator.
I don't know where I live now as I have not needed to a radiator shop yet, but up north if you could find a shop, not many around now, to even look at the radiator most of the time it had to be replaced any way.
I think a lot had to do with the shops hour rate, look just out side NYC for rates. If they are getting $40 hr and it will take 3 hours to clean & test we are up to $120 for a $100 part.
Just my take on it.
Dave ----
Well, I wouldn't have done it, but the exact fit radiator I ordered from Amazon was no where close to my real one. I'd much rather have a $100 new one, can someone post where/part number for the one that fits is?
the local radiator shop told me I might as well go buy foaming engine cleaner and go to the car wash and do my own radiator. He said the EPA had watered down their chemicals so weak, over the country stuff is about same strength. He gave me my rotted galaxie radiator back, though he'd boiled it and tried to braze or solder some pinholes.
Well, I wouldn't have done it, but the exact fit radiator I ordered from Amazon was no where close to my real one. I'd much rather have a $100 new one, can someone post where/part number for the one that fits is?
I just looked up my truck (81 F100 300 six) radiator to see how much $$ for a new one.
Rock Auto only list a1 core but 2 different sizes, a 21.5" non-AC and a 27.5" with AC for about $135 - looks to be plastic & Alum.
LMC only list 1 radiator the 27.5" but does not say if for AC or not and it is a 1 core for $220 - no picture.
Auto Zone list 2 with AC (27.5) and without AC (21.5) max price $177 - plastic & Alum.
The Radiator in my truck now (from parts truck) is copper / brass and would like to say with that as I have not had good luck on plastic / alum tank seals.
The radiator that was in my truck was a plastic / alum but did not fit the radiator support and no way to be held in, had 1 bolt and wire to hold it from meeting fan.
I want to say the later years had a different way they bolted in?
Dave ----