haha its doubtful.

I would do the FRx from riffraff and the H & H mod and run a metal rock catcher mesh pre-pump filter for time being or better yet water fuel separator of your choosing.

I've been looking at a few regulated returns and wondering if they would be any different than the FRX? Don't they require lift pumps, at least for the RR fuel bowl delete kits?

 

I have the Driven Diesel regulated return....I like it. Retained the OEM fuel filter.

 

This something I wish I would have done while I had the turbo out. I already had an Frx though and din't want to spend the money.

 

What's your budget? Now I'm kicking myself for not getting the driven regulated return.


Sorry y'all I'm still figuring out how to do multiple quotes or whatever. Not trying to hijack.

 

I bought the Hutch kit from Strictly Diesel 10 years ago. The kit looks unchanged today BTW. I've been happy with it and recently updated to a Racor PS-120 and got out of the spin-on filter replacements. I'm sure I could have sourced it but the kit came with everything I needed which was worth the extra price to me to have something ready to go and I knew would fit. It's still going strong a decade later so money well spent IMO.

It depends on the tunes and what you want out of it. I did my research and got the size I wanted based on what I wanted out of the truck. It just so happened to be considered a "stage 2" injector. I haven't towed anything over 5K lbs but applying a practical driving approach (don't lug the engine) and EGT concerns are non-existent for me.

 

I dunno, the 160/80 injector is considered a Stage 2 injector and it's a good injector for heavy towing. Sure, ya gotta make sure the truck can really breath since the 80% nozzle can increase EGT's, but that's easily controlled with your custom tune.

In my opinion, going bigger to singles with an 80% nozzle is definitely better.

Stewart

 

I hear you, but two things.

1) 14k is WAY different than 5k. Even 10k is quite a load. You have to stay in it quite a bit longer to stay up to speed and more mods are required to run a bigger injector.

2) And this one I have never understood, but how fast goes one really need to go when towing anything over, say, 8k? My truck has stock injectors with excellent tuning. I can maintain 60 mph up a drawn out 6% grade without having to watch my EGT gauge and easily do 75 on flat to moderate hills if I wanted to go that fast. I have been down the other road where that is ALL you watch and it sucks. Why have more HP that you really can't use effectively? That's just my opinion after towing many, many miles no less than 10k. Again, it's all about how you drive it and what you want. I want longevity, reliability, and a truck I can give hell when I need without having to mod it to the hilt without melting a piston.

I hear you Stew. See above. That's my biggest thing....reliability and as stress free driving as possible. But, if a guy wants to drop that much coin (turbo, tuning, injectors, clutch or trans) to go a little faster pulling heavy weight, that is his liberty.

 

You didn't mention what year your truck is but if it is a 01-03 model It likely has the powdered metal connecting rods which can only handle about 450 HP safely. If you want to build it for around 425 HP to be safe the first thing you need to do Is get rid of that Edge tuner and get a Hydra chip. For the fuel system you will need the to do the hutch mod, you can piece the kit together yourself or buy the whole kit from Diesel Site I got the kit and it works great, for a regulated return the CNC fab 4 line feed kit is a great option, I have the Riff Raff FRX and it works great but I would have got the CNC kit If I would have known about it at the time. You need Boost, egt, and trans temp gauges if you don't have them already. Then a built transmission if it's an auto or a good clutch if it's a manual. The final step would be injectors, with a PMR motor I wouldn't go larger than a 160/100 injector, with good tuning those will put you close to 450 HP with your current mods, 160/80s will be a little less, and 160/30s will put you around 400 HP, with your 38R turbo egts shouldn't be an issue with any of these injectors.

 

Oh I knew what ya meant. My example could be argued is more of an outlier than standard, and I was kinda hoping that would come across as a "there's always an exception/one person in the group!" kind of post.

Stewart

 

 

I'd say if you're going 160/80 as your stage 2 sticks, you'll be happy. I love mine - can tow 14k without issue then turn around and put some guy in a beamer trying to showboat for his woman to shame.

 

Definitely Brian and you have done some great work. I hope I didn't come across as chitting on your choices. I wasn't by any means. That's one thing I love here are the good discussions....and you guys probably know something that I don't know. I just know two other people that run Stage 2s and said they had big regrets when towing heavy weight. One of them in fact switched back to Stage 1s to alleviate the EGT issue. Either way, good to know for if and when I have to make an informed injector choice.

 

 

Wondering about the single shots. I had always been told the splits were to make it run much smoother. Do the singles produce more power? Does your truck idle and run like it did with splits? And yeah, us California guys are pretty limited....which blows, but.....

 

Single shots give you more power and better efficiency, mine idles about the same as it did before. I was actually surprised because I thought it would have more of a lope like the OBS trucks do, but it idles smooth.