Where to start... strange electrical issue! FOUND IT,
#1
Where to start... strange electrical issue! FOUND IT,
So out of the blue I decide to jump in the truck to go buy some steel the other day. Turned the key to find no cranking power. No biggie, put it on the charger over night only to find still no cranking power. Thats when I pulled off the cables for cleaning and noticed some pretty serious arcing on the negitive post when hooking it back up. Figured I had a short somewhere so I put the meter around the battery cable and pulled every fuse looking and expecting an amp drop when I found the right fuse with the issue. Nope didnt happed! So now I charge up the batterys and go to put the key in and I see my idiot lights are on full time? With or without the key in or on? In my simple mind i figure ignition switch is bad. Just swapped it out without luck. I also replaced the ignition lock mechanism as it seems really loose between run and start position... new one is no different. Any of you spark gurus have any ideas where to look or even start? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
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Don't take this wrong, I've done this before and I've been a master electrician for almost 30 years... Was it set for DC amps? It's easy to have it on AC amps.
What was the current reading?
Was it on positive or negative cable? I ask this because there are several negative paths, positive is easier to track the cables
What was the current reading?
Was it on positive or negative cable? I ask this because there are several negative paths, positive is easier to track the cables
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#8
Don't take this wrong, I've done this before and I've been a master electrician for almost 30 years... Was it set for DC amps? It's easy to have it on AC amps.
What was the current reading?
Was it on positive or negative cable? I ask this because there are several negative paths, positive is easier to track the cables
What was the current reading?
Was it on positive or negative cable? I ask this because there are several negative paths, positive is easier to track the cables
#9
Since there have been experiences like this before from other it is probably your batteries like they have mentioned.
If you want to further chase this I would suggest getting around a positive cable one at a time. There is one that connects the two batteries and it can be ignored. There are 3 more. The one that has the reading is the direction of the load. The reading could be different now than before. I believe on DC amp range the meter will need to be zeroed before you put it on, there is a button/**** on the meter to zero if it needs it.
If you want to further chase this I would suggest getting around a positive cable one at a time. There is one that connects the two batteries and it can be ignored. There are 3 more. The one that has the reading is the direction of the load. The reading could be different now than before. I believe on DC amp range the meter will need to be zeroed before you put it on, there is a button/**** on the meter to zero if it needs it.
#13
In digging deeper We were on the right neighborhood except its not the ignition switch or ignition lock... it appears to be a broken actuator rod / pin between the ignition lock and the ignition! The ignition never turned off when the key was in the off position. Now to figure out how to get in there and change it out! Thinking this is going to be a major PITA!
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