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Where to start... strange electrical issue! FOUND IT,

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Old 11-03-2018, 02:55 PM
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Where to start... strange electrical issue! FOUND IT,

So out of the blue I decide to jump in the truck to go buy some steel the other day. Turned the key to find no cranking power. No biggie, put it on the charger over night only to find still no cranking power. Thats when I pulled off the cables for cleaning and noticed some pretty serious arcing on the negitive post when hooking it back up. Figured I had a short somewhere so I put the meter around the battery cable and pulled every fuse looking and expecting an amp drop when I found the right fuse with the issue. Nope didnt happed! So now I charge up the batterys and go to put the key in and I see my idiot lights are on full time? With or without the key in or on? In my simple mind i figure ignition switch is bad. Just swapped it out without luck. I also replaced the ignition lock mechanism as it seems really loose between run and start position... new one is no different. Any of you spark gurus have any ideas where to look or even start? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:06 PM
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I've not heard of a problem like this before - the idiot lights are what's weird. How are you checking the amp draw when you were pulling fuses? What meter are you using?
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:13 PM
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Check the batteries themselves. When mine went bad recently it did really weird things in the cab, with or without key activation.

After that I'm lost too.
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverhks
Check the batteries themselves. When mine went bad recently it did really weird things in the cab, with or without key activation.

After that I'm lost too.
agree.....my battery died about three years ago and when I charged (or tried to) it, the interior stuff would go nuts. New battery, problem solved.
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by axmrdr
I've not heard of a problem like this before - the idiot lights are what's weird. How are you checking the amp draw when you were pulling fuses? What meter are you using?
UNI-T UT201E
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:35 PM
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This one...
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 03:51 PM
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Don't take this wrong, I've done this before and I've been a master electrician for almost 30 years... Was it set for DC amps? It's easy to have it on AC amps.
What was the current reading?
Was it on positive or negative cable? I ask this because there are several negative paths, positive is easier to track the cables
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by axmrdr
Don't take this wrong, I've done this before and I've been a master electrician for almost 30 years... Was it set for DC amps? It's easy to have it on AC amps.
What was the current reading?
Was it on positive or negative cable? I ask this because there are several negative paths, positive is easier to track the cables
I used the negitive cable thinking it didnt matter. Static we got sporadic readings to 2 amp draw down to a quarter amp.

 
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Old 11-03-2018, 04:29 PM
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Since there have been experiences like this before from other it is probably your batteries like they have mentioned.
If you want to further chase this I would suggest getting around a positive cable one at a time. There is one that connects the two batteries and it can be ignored. There are 3 more. The one that has the reading is the direction of the load. The reading could be different now than before. I believe on DC amp range the meter will need to be zeroed before you put it on, there is a button/**** on the meter to zero if it needs it.
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 04:41 PM
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Check your GPR it might have gone bad.if both big terminals are hot with key off you found your problem.
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 04:58 PM
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Kinda thinkin the same thing/ something welded.


Denny
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:01 PM
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The current draw will tell us if it is the GPR, should be a lot higher than 2 amps.... and the wire the draw is measured on. It has it's own positive cable.
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:26 PM
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In digging deeper We were on the right neighborhood except its not the ignition switch or ignition lock... it appears to be a broken actuator rod / pin between the ignition lock and the ignition! The ignition never turned off when the key was in the off position. Now to figure out how to get in there and change it out! Thinking this is going to be a major PITA!
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 05:32 PM
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That's good news. At least you have a direction to look. I'm curious to know what it is so don't leave us hanging ...
 
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Old 11-03-2018, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by axmrdr
That's good news. At least you have a direction to look. I'm curious to know what it is so don't leave us hanging ...
Will Do! Think im 99% sure whats going on and what gave way. Tomorrows project so I will post pics as I go. All the symptoms make since now.
 


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