Whats the most common, recent 6.7L problem
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My 2011 DRW and my 2015DRW threw the EGR Cooler fault codes, requiring both to be replaced at 40,000 and 43,000 miles respectfully, the 2015 had to replace the Particulate Filter and the Fuel Pump in the tank. I'm at 58,000 miles. My neighbor's truck threw the EGR Cooler code and required replacement at 45,000 miles. It did it again at 80,000 miles and he deleted it instead of replacement.
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I have a friend of mine that I tow with quite often and has carried my spare tube with him for the past several months as he didn't want to change his. He gave it back to me about three weeks ago thinking he would be ok now that the hot weather was done. Tow days later on his way to work WITHOUT towing, it let go. Of course he was on o f the luckier one that hos truck lasted until 75k miles unlike Rodney or myself that grenaded in less than 30K. Simple fix, around $250 and an hours time depending on make you get.
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2015 F250 issues so for after 3.5 years
Truck has been ok but, I would not own a 6.7 without an ESP. First 3 under factory warranty: steering box and water pump replaced. Left side valve replacement and regen pcm reprogramed, cab off job very scary if you see one. Just had primary radiator replaced at 24993 mi under ESP 100 ded, basically paid for having the plan. These are not the old reliable diesels as the past, tech and emissions are making them that way. Pulls my trailer like a beast though.
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Slightly distracting from the recent common theme, I’ll post my list of notable issues below. I have had an expensive 2018. 101 months since built. I have had some of the common issues, such as the CAC duct cracking so I’ll bold what I think are the more recent common issues I read here among multiple model years. The 6.7L is still a good engine. For Ford, it had to be in my opinion. While I had the ESP, it paid for itself with just two mirror replacements.
• Early transmission issues (gear 2-3 shift issue) that took 32,000 miles to resolve over at least eight trips to the dealer. Three shift solenoids replaced.
• Towed to the dealer when the VGT became unresponsive on the highway. Multiple restarts didn’t resolve. At the time I didn't understand how, if the engine was running, the turbo wasn't spinning but now I know the vanes were most likely stuck closed. It still does this a few times each year but a restart resolves (the ‘fix’ was a firmware update).
• Driver mirror replaced twice (passenger mirror is now dead)
• Front differential leaking, resealed.
• Primary water pump failed.
** Five years; factory + ESP warranty expired **
• DEF sender/heater assembly failed.
• Coolant line to turbo failed.
• Vacuum pump oil leak (loose screws, self-corrected for now).
• CAC duct cracking (didn't blow apart like some have experienced, was cracked on both ends and leaking air, down a few PSI on boost)
• Wastegate solenoid, vacuum line replaced.
• #5 fuel injector failed, replaced.
• DEF injector (doser) failed, replaced. (stuck open, this issue caused it to pour blue-ish smoke during active regen until EGT4 temps were above 950°F)
• Upper radiator hose leaking, replaced.
• EGR cooler core clogged (once).
• Replaced MAP sensor.
• A/C warm air. Vacuum, refill. No prior A/C work.
• Failing alternator, replaced.
• New cab bushings. (had been bad for some time)
• Towed to the dealer when the VGT became unresponsive on the highway. Multiple restarts didn’t resolve. At the time I didn't understand how, if the engine was running, the turbo wasn't spinning but now I know the vanes were most likely stuck closed. It still does this a few times each year but a restart resolves (the ‘fix’ was a firmware update).
• Driver mirror replaced twice (passenger mirror is now dead)
• Front differential leaking, resealed.
• Primary water pump failed.
** Five years; factory + ESP warranty expired **
• DEF sender/heater assembly failed.
• Coolant line to turbo failed.
• Vacuum pump oil leak (loose screws, self-corrected for now).
• CAC duct cracking (didn't blow apart like some have experienced, was cracked on both ends and leaking air, down a few PSI on boost)
• Wastegate solenoid, vacuum line replaced.
• #5 fuel injector failed, replaced.
• DEF injector (doser) failed, replaced. (stuck open, this issue caused it to pour blue-ish smoke during active regen until EGT4 temps were above 950°F)
• Upper radiator hose leaking, replaced.
• EGR cooler core clogged (once).
• Replaced MAP sensor.
• A/C warm air. Vacuum, refill. No prior A/C work.
• Failing alternator, replaced.
• New cab bushings. (had been bad for some time)
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Some experience a oil pan leak. I did but fixed under warranty. Other than that i have had no real problems with my 15 F250. Still on stock CAC pipe. My truck is completely stock except for the 5th wheel hitch and air bags on the rear. I have about 60,000 miles and 30,000 miles towing my 5th wheel.
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I've noticed EGR, turbo and DPF failures listed here. I can't help but think that soot reducing additives like BetterDiesel FBC, Enerburn, AR6200, Opti-Lube would be helpful. These failures fly in the face of "these trucks are made to run on today's diesel fuel" comments. Some of us believe in fuel additives and some don't. Others have never given it a thought.
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