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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Drops dead on acceleration when cold

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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 05:25 PM
  #31  
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KOER 44 Thermactor air system fault - May be related to the KOER 82.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 05:34 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by fordbozo
KOER 77 Operator Error?
During the beginning of the KOER test, after the number of cylinders are projected, there will be an indicator to perform the WOT test.
This means you floor the pedal and let up on it.

The 3145 code reader displays a "10" when it is time to perform the WOT test.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 05:45 PM
  #33  
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Unplug the connectors and check the Red wires going to the TAD & TAB Solenoids, you should have about 12 volts to each red wire with the key on.

Check the resistance of the Solenoids across the two pins while they are unplugged.

The TAD & TAB connectors both have a Red & a White/with Black stripe wire.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 06:15 PM
  #34  
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As far as the IAC goes, I would remove it, clean it.

Measure the resistance across the two pins on the AIC, switch the leads and measure again. The resistance should be about 10 Ohms +/- 3 ohms.

Also check the Red wire with the key on, should be about 12volts.

The Gray/White is switched on and off by the EECM/Engine Computer.
You would need a meter or scope that measures Duty Cycle of Frequency to see if that function is working properly. With some test lights you can see that switching by the light flashes. A Noid light works for this, but you really need to see if the Duty Cycle is increasing or decreasing.

Cleaning the IAC with check that box, and measuring the resistance and voltage will check those boxes.
When you reinstall the IAC use a new gasket.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 06:58 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
What's the make and model of your code reader ?
It's an innova equus #3143. Got it from a garage sale a number of years ago. Will recheck the codes tomorrow after cleaning the IAC.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 07:15 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by fordbozo
It's an innova equus #3143. Got it from a garage sale a number of years ago. Will recheck the codes tomorrow after cleaning the IAC.
Ok, that one flashes the codes.
So the WOT signal is the single flash about 10 seconds after the 4 flashes for 8 cylinders.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2018 | 07:35 PM
  #37  
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Losing my mind...
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Nov 13, 2018 at 09:42 PM. Reason: deleting text
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 04:47 PM
  #38  
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My truck was possessed this morning. KOEO was a constant tone. I wheeled out the charger as I was assuming the battery was going a little flat. A few no starts and battery charger connect/disconnect and it finally settled down.

With an the IAC cleaned I get consistent KOEO 1 81 82 85.

81 air diverter solenoid fault
82 air diverter solenoid circuit fault
85 canister purge solenoid

Which means it's still pissed about the IAC, will need to check the power/resistance. Where is the canister? I don't seem to have one.

When it was starting rough I couldn't get it running consistently. When it would finally idle I'd run to the front just as it gave up the last code iteration and went quiet. When I could finally get it to run KOER settled down to 1 21 44 77.

21 cooling temp - I'm low on water due to a leak, I'll fill the radiator up
44 thermactor air?
77 operator error

What thermactor?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:17 PM
  #39  
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IAV Red wire KOEO is 11.8 volts, resistance across the IAV is 10 both directions. I filled it with water and the gauge was a lot happier. Still getting 44 77 KOER. I'm not exactly sure this was the original engine in this truck, there are plenty of errant wires flopping around.

I'm getting hard start now, which never used to happen and still an rpm drop on acceleration when cold. As usual, when warm it runs fine. If it's not raining tomorrow I'm going to charge up the battery and make sure it's OK. I'm blaming the hard start on my battery getting a bit tired from all this doinking around.

Uhm, what's a TAD and/or TAB?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:19 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Losing my mind...
Join the club Vinny!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 07:35 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Join the club Vinny!
LOL
I had posted something about the power steering pressure test, but realized it was the 5.0L only in 1989, so I deleted it, then a half hour later I put it all back in again, ****e, then I deleted it a second time.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:03 PM
  #42  
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At least you lost the 48 code.

I have seen a lot of folks out here burn up starters and starter solenoids by not keeping their battery fully charged.
Were you able to perform the WOT?

You don’t want to start the KOER until the engine is warmed up and idle is fairly stable.

There is no code “1” for your year, that may be the indicator to start the WOT or one of the quick flashes from the handshaking between the devices.
For Codes 81 & 82 see post # 33.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:20 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by fordbozo
85 canister purge solenoid, Where is the canister? I don't seem to have one.
​​​​​​​

Canister looks like this...

Solenoid looks like this....

The canister purge solenoid and the canister itself are two different animals.

The Purge Solenoid usually hangs out just to the left of the Throttle Body on the passenger side of the engine compartment. 2 wire connector Red wire and Grey\Yellow striped wire. The Purge Solenoid has a hose on each side, 1 hose goes to a port on the intake/throttle body, the other hose goes to the canister itself. The Canister is usually down below the Battery Holder, looks like a coolant overflow canister and has a hose/line going to the vent on the Gas tank.


 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:33 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by fordbozo
44 thermactor air? What thermactor?
I think you have 2 Thermactors, the TAD & TAB, the TAD diverts fresh air from your Air Pump to the Catalytic Converter. The TAB vents the Air Pump fresh air out into space when it's not needed.

Do you have an Air (smog) Pump still attached ?
Thermactors still attached ?


Smog system,

This is a Thermactor.. there is 2, air bypass & air diverter
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:50 PM
  #45  
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The smog pump is long gone. Any way to trick the box into thinking it’s working ok? The IAC seems to be ok?
 
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