are you running on of theses or not. I am having problems with carb load, and also dumping fuel into carb after the vehicle is shut down. ie. after running the vehicle and it gets hot, shut down and wait 15 min, take a lot of cranking to get it restarted and act as if it were flooded. I am running a holly red fuel pump, elerbrock 1406, and msd6al with petronix. i also not some stmble or load up at wot. my thinking would be to run a return line to handle the pressure at stoplights and to release pressure when shutting down.
s

 

I run a return system, but its on my race car. It may help, but not sure if actually needed.

Have you checked the float level? Maybe it's too high.
Have you checked the fuel pressure at the carb? The red pump should not need a regulator, but maybe it's a bit on the high side.
If the carb is getting heat soaked when sitting, try installing a phenolic spacer under carb to help block the heat.

Those "carter" style carbs do take some tuning to get right. They are also a bit more involved in getting RIGHT. There are JETS and METERING rods. You have to know which pair to install to get the certain mixture. I would suggest buying the book on these and do some reading.

I used to run these years back, but I like my Holley's a bit better. Granted they are a mess to take apart, but for tuning I like them better. I run 2 Holley's on ALL my hot rods, so I'm a little more comfortable with them.
(truck has med. riser 2-4bbls, blown 390 has 2-4bbls, and wagon runs tunnelwedge 2-4bbls)


Larry

 

I had the same problem with the 390 in my 66. I fixed it with an insulated spacer between the intake and the carb.

 

After you run it for 15 min, take the air cleaner off, turn the engine off and watch the carb. If you see a bunch of foggy smoke coming out of the carb then the float is not right, it is stuck or the needle and seat is bad. In any of these situations, gas is still going into the intake after the engine is shut off until the pressure is all drained out. Then you are flooded for sure. My truck did this and I replace the carb. Or you could get is rebuilt.

 

the carb is new and i beleive i have a good setup of jets and rods as to the elevation i am at. i have discussed this with the eldebrock tech line and they suggest a regulator for fuel pressure and getting rid of the 1 inch spacer that is on it now. they have suggested their smaller spacer instead. i am running a streetmaster manifold. looks like i will be looking furthur into the carb and float settign soon.

thanks for all the input
s

 

Sounds like typical vapor lock. It's possible you are actually boiling the gasoline in the line, or while in the carb.

That's why one guy putting an insulating spacer under the carb helped.

I had this with my '74 F250, even with the stock 360. My brother, who bought it new, also had the problem. He tried putting in a return fuel line, and he said it didn't really help, and never came up with a solution before I got it from him with over 180K miles on it (second motor).

Did it for me too. I did all sorts of things, but it came down to keeping the fuel line going from the tank to the fuel pump, and from the fuel pump to the carb, away from anything hot. Putting on a good fan shroud helped, because it blew more cool air across the motor and kept the lines cooler.

Anyway, what's happening is that the fuel is so hot, that after shutting down, it vaporizes, floods the carb and intake and you're "flooded". While moving, a heavy foot will get you in trouble too, because of the extra heat.

Or the other guys here are right, and it's a float level problem.

Either way, do yourself a favor and try to keep the carb and fuel lines as cool as possible. Putting in an insulating carb spacer might be the way to go.

ak