Oil Sender Replacement
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 177
Likes: 1
Oil Sender Replacement
Yesterday while under the truck swapping my starter motor (that sucked, rusty bolts) I took a quick look around to find my oil sender. The light came on a couple weeks back saying it had no oil, despite there being oil in there. So, as I was looking around for the sender I find it and notice something wrong...
Notice anything missing?
Yep, the wiring is broken, not the first piece of broken wiring I have discovered recently (f**king mice). So, my question is where does the wiring from the sender go? I took a look around and could not see any broken wire hanging down close enough where I could solder in a new section. I am hoping to find the wiring and not have to swap out the sender itself, but no idea where the other end is located. Anyone know where I should be looking?
Thanks.
Notice anything missing?
Yep, the wiring is broken, not the first piece of broken wiring I have discovered recently (f**king mice). So, my question is where does the wiring from the sender go? I took a look around and could not see any broken wire hanging down close enough where I could solder in a new section. I am hoping to find the wiring and not have to swap out the sender itself, but no idea where the other end is located. Anyone know where I should be looking?
Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
What year, and motor ?
The so called sender is only a pressure switch that closes on a low value of about 7 psi.
The connector has a lock tab on it so it will not come off by itself over time.
Get a connector with some lead left on from a yard and splice back to good wire on the harness.
Looks like the oil filter has not been replaced for quite some time (looks like rust around the edges). It's important to engine life.
My 4.6 is about to turn over 290,000 miles.
Good luck.
The so called sender is only a pressure switch that closes on a low value of about 7 psi.
The connector has a lock tab on it so it will not come off by itself over time.
Get a connector with some lead left on from a yard and splice back to good wire on the harness.
Looks like the oil filter has not been replaced for quite some time (looks like rust around the edges). It's important to engine life.
My 4.6 is about to turn over 290,000 miles.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 177
Likes: 1
2000 with the 5.4. Not a bad idea to find a connector from a junk yard and cut as much wire as possible, where does the other end of the wire go to though? I could not see it anywhere while under there.
It is overdue an oil change, trying to take care of a bunch of issues first... along with the starter motor I also have to replace all the rear brake lines, they rusted through somewhere in the middle, pushing the brake pedal and fluid pours out. Any tips on replacing the brake lines also appreciated, I watched a video where the guy heated up the plastic brake line holders with a heat gun to soften them a little to pop the lines out, hoping to not have to do that as I have no extension cord long enough to reach where the truck is sitting. Planning on an oil change once I get the brakes sorted out. Not far behind you in mileage, mine is at about 270,000 miles on it.
It is overdue an oil change, trying to take care of a bunch of issues first... along with the starter motor I also have to replace all the rear brake lines, they rusted through somewhere in the middle, pushing the brake pedal and fluid pours out. Any tips on replacing the brake lines also appreciated, I watched a video where the guy heated up the plastic brake line holders with a heat gun to soften them a little to pop the lines out, hoping to not have to do that as I have no extension cord long enough to reach where the truck is sitting. Planning on an oil change once I get the brakes sorted out. Not far behind you in mileage, mine is at about 270,000 miles on it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
It goes into a harness that ends up at the dash display.
The coolant temperature and oil pressure signals are combined in part of the dash circuit.
In event of loss of oil pressure or coolant over heats, both are possible damage to the motor and lights a separate Red dash lamp.
If the temperature alone goes above a certain limit, the PCM puts the motor in limp mode to help prevent over heating damage.
The Limp mode alternates through all the cylinders fire order by cutting off fuel and allowing each disabled cylinder to just pump air through to help limit the heat until the driver sees the problem instead of just keep driving until damage is done.
Just splice on to the leads at the switch area.
Good luck.
The coolant temperature and oil pressure signals are combined in part of the dash circuit.
In event of loss of oil pressure or coolant over heats, both are possible damage to the motor and lights a separate Red dash lamp.
If the temperature alone goes above a certain limit, the PCM puts the motor in limp mode to help prevent over heating damage.
The Limp mode alternates through all the cylinders fire order by cutting off fuel and allowing each disabled cylinder to just pump air through to help limit the heat until the driver sees the problem instead of just keep driving until damage is done.
Just splice on to the leads at the switch area.
Good luck.
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