Highway cruising in boost
#16
10-25-2018, 11:21 AM
And I would love to be able to use torque pro but for some reason that’s probably mind blowingly retarded it is not available with on an iPhone which I have. So I’m left with torques baby sister dashcommand which I quit using and went to the even worse and 7 times more the money junky Lemur BlueDriver. I want to get the act software and start learning but not sure where to begin
#17
10-25-2018, 12:35 PM
So 10,000 into the new motor the timing system broke?
if so I have to ask if the 3V motors are interference motors? If so there could be valve to piston damage. Check compression for sure. Odds are you don't have a bent valve with your vacuum readings but better safe than sorry.
I'm still leaning toward timing issue.
if so I have to ask if the 3V motors are interference motors? If so there could be valve to piston damage. Check compression for sure. Odds are you don't have a bent valve with your vacuum readings but better safe than sorry.
I'm still leaning toward timing issue.
#18
10-25-2018, 01:54 PM
Yes it absolutely is an interference motor but from what I get from a lot of reading and having the old motor jump 3 or 4 teeth “if my memory serves me correct” it shouldn’t have had any piston to valve clash. But with my luck don’t be surprised if it is crank to cam clash: just joking I know that there is absolutely no way the cam and crank cannot touch.
When i I first built it I could floor it in OD and it would bog like a mother f-er but would not ping a bit. The reason I could floor it in od was bc the transmission would not down shift into 2nd or 3rd bc there was something up with that solenoid or valve but that’s been corrected since I tore down and rebuilt the trans. Now it will ping at high rpm and low rpm high load.
When i I first built it I could floor it in OD and it would bog like a mother f-er but would not ping a bit. The reason I could floor it in od was bc the transmission would not down shift into 2nd or 3rd bc there was something up with that solenoid or valve but that’s been corrected since I tore down and rebuilt the trans. Now it will ping at high rpm and low rpm high load.
#19
10-25-2018, 02:12 PM
I run mine at 12 psi and have zero ping. Probably due to water meth.
pinging also implies a timing issue or heated iat not being registered by pcm.
Is there a way you could put a water temp gauge on the supply side of intercooler. My blower will put out 150 air just cruising down hwy. This can heat the intercooler water and once boost starts you could be seeing up to 180 degree air to motor. My pcm will start retarding at 120 degrees. Yours will not because your iat sensor will see atmosphere temp instead.
I would be intrested in the water temp after blower has heat soaked.....a 30 min drive or so with ac on.
pinging also implies a timing issue or heated iat not being registered by pcm.
Is there a way you could put a water temp gauge on the supply side of intercooler. My blower will put out 150 air just cruising down hwy. This can heat the intercooler water and once boost starts you could be seeing up to 180 degree air to motor. My pcm will start retarding at 120 degrees. Yours will not because your iat sensor will see atmosphere temp instead.
I would be intrested in the water temp after blower has heat soaked.....a 30 min drive or so with ac on.
#20
10-25-2018, 05:45 PM
Yeah it wouldn’t take much,jutmat getting the gauge doing it. Always wondered how hot was too hot for iat but never really looked into it. M there’s no way it doesn’t get heat soaked. If I remember correctly when I first got the motor running the ect was erratic. The gauge go up and down like temp was spiking and ten coming down. It hasn’t done that in a long time thought. Also cut a knock sensor wire and just spliced it back together and wrapped with elec tape and also I might have overtightened them when installing.
#21
10-26-2018, 04:36 PM
ECT should not be erratic, if it was it was not the blower. Mine is a 180 degree tstat and stays there unless ac is on then goes to 188 or so.
I thought the knock sensor wire was a shielded wire? Maybe not but we sure would not want false knock or worse yet undetected knock.
keep us informed, thanks.
I thought the knock sensor wire was a shielded wire? Maybe not but we sure would not want false knock or worse yet undetected knock.
keep us informed, thanks.
#22
10-27-2018, 11:34 AM
It will ping until I let off the gas. Last night while driving i got on it and shifted into 2nd and didn’t want to shift into 3rd. I accelerated harder and nothing so I decelerated and it shifted so I know that’s a symptom of a bad tps or throttle body. Then I just wanted see so going about 30 I put in cruise control and I was speeding up slowing down then surging then it bogged then it smoothed and started over so today I’m going to see if I can find a throttle body or order a new motor and tps unless I can find the assembly cheaper. The temp hasn’t been erratic in a while. I was thinking that maybe there was an air bubbles in the cooling loop that finally found itsbwad out bc the coolant went down a little in the tank but there has been no loss since.
#23
10-27-2018, 05:48 PM
A minor update. I changed out the motor on the throttle body ,which thank you Dorman bc it saves you a couple up to 400 dollars,and it seems to have helped a bit.
My emgine load at idle with ac on and in gear before was 39-42 percent and now it’s 22-25. That’s a big difference. The transmission shift at a bit higher rpm and i can feel the little extra power. but I’m still pinging and not running like it should.
can someone explain why engine load would be any different in normal manual cruise vs cruise control a same mph? I will be cruising at about 97-100 load and as soon I switch to cruise control drops down to the 60’s. This cannot be normal. There should be no more fuel or air running through the motor up to 100 percent then the bypass opens or closes which ever it is and then air is forced. The only difference I’ve noticed is that when I switch to cruise control the timing changes. I can’t remembet if it retards or advances I’ll look next time I’m out.
My emgine load at idle with ac on and in gear before was 39-42 percent and now it’s 22-25. That’s a big difference. The transmission shift at a bit higher rpm and i can feel the little extra power. but I’m still pinging and not running like it should.
can someone explain why engine load would be any different in normal manual cruise vs cruise control a same mph? I will be cruising at about 97-100 load and as soon I switch to cruise control drops down to the 60’s. This cannot be normal. There should be no more fuel or air running through the motor up to 100 percent then the bypass opens or closes which ever it is and then air is forced. The only difference I’ve noticed is that when I switch to cruise control the timing changes. I can’t remembet if it retards or advances I’ll look next time I’m out.
#24
11-04-2018, 05:15 PM
So today I found I thread someone started on f150forum.com and he was having the exact same problems I am having. I mean to a T perfect hit the nail on the head same as my symptoms. But the problem is his problem was due to the irmc,the thing on the stock intake and mine is not used do to the supercharger. But even though it has to have something to due with the tune on deleting the irmc I am positive of that now. His was do to the valve either stuck open or stuck closed. The instruction from whipple some of it was confusing and if I remener correct the part about what to do with the left over wire not to be used anymore that connect to the irmc valve was one those parts. I think it said just tie the wires up and electrical tape the plug but I can’t for te life of me find any instruction online or on their website. They said they had never had a problem like in mentioning them I found the thread and emailed it to them and asked them to please read and they will get a better idea of what is going on. If anyone had the instruction is there anyway you could post them or email them to me. Thanks
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