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The 7.3 in my '02 X died yesterday. While driving, it developed a sharp knocking sound but was running smoothly. I pulled over and determined the knock was half engine speed, therefore related to compression stroke. I thought it was an exhaust leak.
With no choice I continued on. It began to blow white smoke out the exhaust, but still was running fine otherwise. Shortly after that, the heater began blowing cold air (it was 40 degrees out). I made it to. Ford dealer where it finally began to run a little rough when I pulled in the parking lot. Probably 152-15 miles, mostly downhill, from when smoke started out of exhaust.
Dealer thinks something, probably an injector, broke and toasted a cylinder. I'm inclined to disagree.
In the excursion forum you stated it was a catastrophic failure ? Sounds more like a valve/piston created a Loss of compression or coolant leak into the cylinder. A bummer for sure but fixable. I generally think of catastrophic as a rod through the block causing enough damage that can’t be fixed.
One thing is for certain, guessing won't help. Even the dealer's guess is just a guess. Without doing the appropriate troubleshooting, even the most savant mechanic is simply guessing. I'm only guessing, but the heat going away is a little foreboding. I'm also guessing you would have mentioned it if the check engine light had come on or if the temp gauge was pinned to the red from the time of the failure.
Real diganostics will help. Reading codes, following a diagnostic procedure, and putting hands/eyes/tools on the engine.
I posted over in the X forum immediately upon dropping the truck off at the dealer. I was a little rash in the heat of the moment.
My initial reaction when the white smoke started blowing out the exhaust and the heater started blowing cold was coolant/head gasket/injector cup. I neglected to even look at the dash to see if the CEL was lit or the temp guage was pegged. I was in a fair amount of traffic and mesmerized by the billowing cloud of smoke trailing behind the truck.
I'm only into the dealer for $200 at this point, so they didn't do much before trying to sell me a new engine.
I'm having it towed the 90 miles back to my house tomorrow, I'll hook up my AE ScanTool and see what it tells me.
Had the truck towed back this morning. Computer codes P1211 and P0475 have been there awhile - pretty sure they're due to the DPTuner 80HP econo tune I'm running and gutting of the EBPV.
I also have P0683 Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Error.
Performed a KOEO test and got P0475, P0683 plus P0605 Internal Control Module ROM Error.
Performed an injector buzz test. Three of the injectors (5,6,7) were much louder than all the rest.
Tried starting the engine. It would crank, but barely turn over while at the same time the starter relay was clicking wildly like the battery was dead. The batteries showed a full charge.
BTW - truck came with service invoice from dealer. Charged me $140 - sounds like 1 hour. Their summary: Knocking noise found in engine. Recommend replace engine, internal failure.
** The Dptuner is likely responsible for the PCM p0605 code.
** I wouldn't give the buzz test much worry, about all it is good for is knowing the injectors are getting a signal.
** this will fix your P0475 EBPV code #13-023 EPV Fooler resistor
battery were at 12.7 volts ? 12.3 can result in clicking solenoid.
that leaves p1211, this is where I would concentrate after you charge your batteries.
Before you tackle this, Using Forscan or AE Check your ICP pressure while during cranking the engine over with a 12.7 charge and or on the charger. You should have a minimum of 500 psi in the ICP to start the engine.
P1211
fuel pressure requlator seems to be to be a popular cause, dieselOrings.com or riff raff have fuel pressure requlator rebuild kits.
another cause is o rings in the IPR valve. Might as well do it since the fuel bowl is coming out to do the regulator.
and then there is the always fun electrical short or open circuit, luckily it is usually near the connector and a new pig tail is available.
I'd exhaust allll the easy stuff before pulling a head. Head gasket failures are very rare on these. But since the scary words are already out there I'll say the C word; cavitation. Been monitoring the SCAs? How's the coolant level? The degas bottle should be pert near empty if that was the reason you lost the heat and trailed that majestic plume on the road. Also check the oil for coolant "milk shake".
Once the batteries are charged pull the 42 pin harness (over the driver side valve cover) inspect underneath to see if the wires chafed on the VC. The strong buzz on 5, 6, and 7 has a chafed wire ring to it. While the 42 pin is disconnected crank it over and listen for variations in speed. A fast cylinder is one with low compression.
And as mentioned above check the ICP while cranking. It should continue to build up to 1800 psi or something while cranking.
If there's a chip on it remove for now. From what I read on the inter-lies it can cause the P0605 code. Apparently a fried PCM can also set that code.
Sounds like a cylinder has made close friends with the cooling system. I've had cases on other engines where there was wetness from the coolant around the exhaust port indicating which cylinder it was. Don't know how coolant was able to weep out without an exhaust leak, but it happens. If you don't see that and you can't start it and determine which cylinder it is I'd probably start by pulling the glow plugs to figure it out. Then get a borescope in there to hopefully figure out if it's a head/head gasket issue or if the engine needs pulling. I don't know if a failed injector cup could do this, if so, I'd pull the injector and check it.
Pulling the head or engine without knowing might be a huge waste of time compared to doing a little diagnosing first.
Finally got around to thinking about working on the truck this morning.
Don't know if I mentioned it, but when I had the truck towed back, the degas bottle was empty.
(edit) I added 4 gallons of coolant, but it was empty again this morning
Pulled the dipstick, no oil on it, but there was water/coolant.
Removed the oil pan drain plug and found my coolant - all of it. Plus the oil that was floating on top.
What a mess.
Last edited by srauner; Oct 20, 2018 at 01:12 PM.
Reason: additional info
