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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Swapping rag joint for solid U joint - pros/cons?

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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 11:27 PM
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Swapping rag joint for solid U joint - pros/cons?

Having now replaced/repaired the rag joint about every 8 months since I’ve owned the truck, I am pretty much over it. I know what you’re thinking... there must be an underlying cause... sure and I agree. My truck didn’t originally have power steering on it and when the PO added it, it wasn’t exactly an OEM swap using the correct bracket and pulleys. I have since sorted that out, but I’m to the point now where I’m ready to just be done with the cheap rubber rag joint replacements that fall apart before you even get them out of the package.

I see folks like ultra who swapped over and haven’t had issues, and I’ve also ready plenty of articles where people are claiming that the lack of the rag joint creates too much vibration and so it is a safety/design requirement for the steering system to operate properly. I’m ok with some extra vibration, but does anyone have a compelling reason for me not to do this? It seems to me that the borgeson joints are well made and designed for this purpose. Looking for thoughts from those who have actually had experience here beyond reading articles like I have.

As always, I appreciate the perspectives. Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 05:31 AM
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Look on E-bay for an OEM rag joint. They are superior in quality to aftermarket ones. I routinely see 50 year old trucks with the original one still functioning as designed. Even an aftermarket one should have lasted longer than 8 months. Are you sure your cab mounts are in good shape?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 07:05 AM
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I installed the Borgeson joint in my truck when I installed the tilt wheel column. That was 4 years ago. Every once in a while, I'll get a momentary buzz for about 2 to 3 seconds when starting off but, I haven't heard it do this in a while --and I drive my truck daily.

If your rag joints are getting shredded up, you might take a look at your cab mounts. If the mounts are bad in the front, it'll pitch the front of the cab downward. If the rear mounts are bad, it'll pitch the front of the cab upwards. Either way, this will be putting a lot of stress on the rag joint due to the misalignment.

A steering joint can cope with the misalignment (if the cab mounts are bad) but it won't make the problem go away. The shear stress will still be induced on the joint. The only cure for that situation is to fix the mounts, if they're bad.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
I installed the Borgeson joint in my truck when I installed the tilt wheel column. That was 4 years ago. Every once in a while, I'll get a momentary buzz for about 2 to 3 seconds when starting off but, I haven't heard it do this in a while --and I drive my truck daily.

If your rag joints are getting shredded up, you might take a look at your cab mounts. If the mounts are bad in the front, it'll pitch the front of the cab downward. If the rear mounts are bad, it'll pitch the front of the cab upwards. Either way, this will be putting a lot of stress on the rag joint due to the misalignment.

A steering joint can cope with the misalignment (if the cab mounts are bad) but it won't make the problem go away. The shear stress will still be induced on the joint. The only cure for that situation is to fix the mounts, if they're bad.
I feel confident that the mounts are playing a part. My front mounts are in need of replacing but not being a welder I haven’t been able to get that done. Paying someone $500 to replace the front mounts isn’t in the cards right now

How durable are the aftermarket universal joints? Lol surely as durable as the rubber joints
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 02:34 PM
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Rag joints require minimum "out of alignment" of the column shaft to the steering box. They can't take a lot of flex. U-joints are forgiving when it comes to alignment of the shaft to the box...that's what they are designed for. The borgeson joints are high quality, just measure the gap that you will have and check the corresponding u-joint to make sure that it will fit, as they are longer than rag joints. I went with a Borgeson combination joint when I added a 78 tilt column and power steering box to my 66. There has never been any noticeable vibration. Borgeson also has some detailed information on their website that you will probably find helpful. Check it out as it will probably answer some of your questions.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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I’m going to proceed with swapping this out. Are there any other brands anyone is aware of. The borgenson unit is nice but something less expensive would be ideal. I see tons of them out there but nothing with the 36x36 spline setup. Usually one side has the DD on it
 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 10:02 AM
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Let me load up some pictures in case I am wrong about my assumption that both ends are 36 spline




 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
I installed the Borgeson joint in my truck when I installed the tilt wheel column. That was 4 years ago. Every once in a while, I'll get a momentary buzz for about 2 to 3 seconds when starting off but, I haven't heard it do this in a while --and I drive my truck daily.

If your rag joints are getting shredded up, you might take a look at your cab mounts. If the mounts are bad in the front, it'll pitch the front of the cab downward. If the rear mounts are bad, it'll pitch the front of the cab upwards. Either way, this will be putting a lot of stress on the rag joint due to the misalignment.

A steering joint can cope with the misalignment (if the cab mounts are bad) but it won't make the problem go away. The shear stress will still be induced on the joint. The only cure for that situation is to fix the mounts, if they're bad.
would you mind taking a look at the three pics above and tell me if you think based on what you see if I’m a 3/4x36 spine on both ends. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 09:42 PM
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I don't see how you are going to run a steering shaft on a 2wd there is no room. Fix your dang cab mounts and fix your problem.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hivoltj
I don't see how you are going to run a steering shaft on a 2wd there is no room. Fix your dang cab mounts and fix your problem.
thanks for the suggestion... not sure you are familiar with what we are talking about. looking for factual based opinions from those who have actually done the swap.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 07:07 AM
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Not saying I've tried it because I haven't. I own no less than 4 2wd trucks; 2 bumps and 2 dents. I have recently replaced the rag joint in my '77 with the dorman one.

what I'm saying is; you are talking of replacing a 3/8" thick disc with a u-joint that is at least an inch long. I dont see how unless you scoot the steering column way up into your chest. There just isnt room.

sure 4wd guys run them but they have an actual steering shaft unlike 2wd where the column mounts right to the box!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hivoltj
Not saying I've tried it because I haven't. I own no less than 4 2wd trucks; 2 bumps and 2 dents. I have recently replaced the rag joint in my '77 with the dorman one.

what I'm saying is; you are talking of replacing a 3/8" thick disc with a u-joint that is at least an inch long. I dont see how unless you scoot the steering column way up into your chest. There just isnt room.

sure 4wd guys run them but they have an actual steering shaft unlike 2wd where the column mounts right to the box!
Both sides of the rag joint get removed, not just the disc. The borgenson joint is 3 3/4” long. These joints are designed for this application.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 07:39 AM
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The end of the fixed (non-tilt wheel) columns as well as the tilt wheel columns have 3/4"-36 splines on the end of the steering column shaft.

The main difference is the tilt wheel columns have a steel, circular rag joint flange that bolts onto the end of the shaft. The fixed column rag joint flange is pressed on and can be difficult to remove from the end of the shaft.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
The end of the fixed (non-tilt wheel) columns as well as the tilt wheel columns have 3/4"-36 splines on the end of the steering column shaft.

The main difference is the tilt wheel columns have a steel, circular rag joint flange that bolts onto the end of the shaft. The fixed column rag joint flange is pressed on and can be difficult to remove from the end of the shaft.
I did read that they can be a bear to remove. I saw where some grinded away until they could chisel the remainder
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 09:30 AM
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I don’t have a 2wd so I may be wrong but the lower bearing retainer on the steering shaft looks loose. Looks like it slid all the way down. Does the steering shaft have lots of side play? The rag joint may be the only thing locating the lower end of the steering shaft.




Also.... The Borgeson style joint is not the greatest design for a street vehicle even under ideal conditions. It is only held in place by a set screw. You’re obviously getting some sort of unwanted movement at that rag joint and replacing it with a solid link seems like a bad idea. Especially if that solid link is really only held in place by a set screw.
 
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