alright, lets see where to start. ok lemme say i have installed my cam if i didnt already say and what a nice gain but thats gettin a little off topic but has to do with my question. i know a cam is supposed to give a rougher idle but i have a little more of a problem here. it seems my truck, when started from a cold start, will rise up in RPMs and slowly drop as usual but sometimes it'll stumble and stall. its been doin that since i bought it and i can live with it but my other problem is when i put it in gear (mainly reverse for some reason) the truck will just stall out. it also has a miss of some sort at idle and partial throttle, would that be the cam causing it? should i take the green vacuum line off the EGR, tape it off, run it and see if it helps? and then if it does make the restrictor plate?

i did check the vacuum and there is no leaks but i will replace the TB, EGR and intake gaskets when i get the $$ cuz they're the only things i removed that would cause a leak. its not a fuel problem cuz the truck doesnt hesitate at high speeds and the filter was just changed last november. so im thinkin either timing or the EGR. i did try to mess with the timing since i install the cam and i have it right about in the middle of where it'll run rough and stall if its advanced or retarded to much and it seems to run good. but the other day my friend said he heard my truck pinging when he was next to it, so i'll try to retard it a little. BTW, does anyone know what the timing should be at for a crane powermax truck cam on an EFI 300?

also, could i remove the outlet hose on the smog pump filter thingy goin to the cat and block it off. the hose blew off my cat right where it meets and i fixed it with good ol' JB weld and a bolt so its useless and just hangin, bangin and vibrating off stuff. also could that cause the "pingin" sound?

also i seen a code reader for fords at wal-mart today for like $18, should i invest in it?

 

anyone?!

 

If it stumbles and stalls, fuel issues would be the first thing I looked at. With something like this, you really need to check everthing, as many systems interact. There should be no EGR at idle unless the valve is leaking, or it's getting vacuum, which it shouldn't be. So normally, suspecting EGR for idle problems is a waste of time unless you think it's malfuctioning. BTW, if you unhook a vacuum line, you should plug it, not tape it. Golf tees are handy...Make sure the ISC is working right. MK