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I was looking at a pid for fuel system status and it’s jumping back and forth. I will be driving at a steady speed and it goes into open loop then closed then open then closed fast and since I’ve been having a lack of power since my engine rebuild and whipple install I’m wondering if this is a clue to what’s going on? Anyone else seen this before?
Yay! That’s how it usually is for me. I need to get it dyno’d but spending another 1000 on top of 7000 is ridiculous. the thousand including the tuner that has to be bought which whipple should include in their kits and that would make it complete. I wonder all the time if should’ve instead listened to the owner where I bought it from and went with the procharger bc it came with an sct handheld and tune corrections but hey at the time I didn’t think that was that important, I was wrong. I’ve done all the work on my transmissions and engines but superchargers were brand new to me. Oh well break out a grand I guess
Have you tired going for a drive while reading the fuel pressure to see if it drops off or spikes at the times the engine acts up? Another possibility is a restriction in the exhaust due to an issue with the cats.
Fuel pressure is 39-40 at idle and will get up to around 70 if I go wot or somewhat wot. I don’t think I’ve ever accelerated wot bc it doesn’t sound right and it bogs. Use to I could be on highway in OD and give it gas no matter how far I pressed the pedal it would just bog down and slowly pick up speed bit then about a year ago it started to ping. At high rpm in 1st 2nd or 3rd it pings and in OD under load low rpm. I installed a new maf,plugs and cops but next I will do injectors.
This is not an exaggeration either but the original motor with 126,000 miles and 3:73 gears turning 35 had more pulling power,more everything for that matter,than this brand new built whipple supercharged engine and also upgraded gears with 4:56.I have an 18’ aluminum boat and I like to fish but can’t pull it to the lake bc it’s too much for it. Hell when I’m running about 65 steady just maintaining speed my o2 sensors are pegged out around .87 volts. And the pcm can’t decide between open or closed loop fueling. There is one thing that’s got me wondering aboit throttle position bc it shows part throttle when I just start to press it and then I press it to about 35 percent and then shows wot. I don’t know if that’s normal or not. And I’m not sure if the absolute relative and commanded throttle positions are correlating with one another? I’m just at a loss. Thanks for the replies
Ford390,the thermostat that comes with the whipple kit and what they tell you to swap out with your stock one is a 160. Open loop is for power enrichment also and it goes in open loop at wot. It stays in closed loop sometimes when I would think it should be in open. But what I don’t get is the detonation or knock when the o2’ or pegged outside and the ignition advance is showing like 4 degrees before tdc. Unless it’s not spark knock I guess it could be the timing chain slapping the head but I’ve had the timing jump 3 times on old motor and it had tons of slack and I never heard except a couple times on startup but I don’t hear that at all yet,hopefully never. I will try all new/reman injectors and of that doesn’t do it I guess I’ll have to bring it to the boys and girls down at Triangle Speed Shop. They seem to be pretty dang good with fords
Original whipple tune. I sent my pcm to them. And I wanna clear up something that I can’t remember if I mentioned it or not but whipple answered the phone every time I called and if when transferred to the ford guy which I think is Dustin Whipple and it went to message he was quick to call back and he even told me to send my pcm back to make sure the correct tune was installed and changed the specs on gear ratio when I changed my gear so their customer service is as good as the best in my case anyways.
I’ve thought about the frps bc I broke the nipple off of it and I glued it back on but I can’t remeber if that was while I was building my new motor or before I started removing the old. And I’ve always wondered if that line was partially clogged what effects would that be? Would it read lower or higher? If higher than yes I need to buy a new one. Another thing and I’m sure I’m pretty sure it’s not doing harm but the I had to bend the frps out of the way of the throttle body bc it was mounted to high at the factory and now it’s right up against the throttle body. But I don’t think that would cause my problems. The only way to fix that is remove the fuel rail,cut the sensor home off and relocate it which is not a problem,I could just bring it to work on do it but I would have to have some hard evidence to do all that. Thank you guys and please keep any thoughts coming.
I don’t think I answered when suggested that the exhaust could have a restriction it. When I rebuild my transmission about two months ago I actually cut out the old and welded I’m some news myself and I have a new Borla muffler and the rear cats are deleted. I’m to the point where I’m just putting new parts in when I have time,which is going to end up more than what a custom dyno tune would cost me. I’m not looking to get get every single bit of power out of it. I just want it to be able to get up and go and pull my boat without any problems with a very very very safe tune.I’ve read tons about people that have te exact same setup as me except stock block and they have no problems at all on the whipple tune. I just wish I knew what the difference is. One thing I’ve wondered is compression ratio. The 5.4 3v is 10.5 or 11:1 I believe and I think mine 10 or 10.5:1 Or thats what manny,the guy that a bought the short block from,said. He said anyways if he had used 9.5:1 pistons we would only be talking about 20 hp and I’m not sure if that is true or false. Throttle position sensor is another thought bc I’ve had the transmission (before I built the new one) would get stuck in second gear and not shift but would shift down if I came to a stop and started going again. But it only did that a handful of times.
I'm out of my league here but a super charger is going to effect the manifold vacuum I would think . The vacuum to the fuel rail sensor is to help it during acceleration it modifies the pressure to compensate . My 05 goes directly to the brake booster hose .The 04's went behind the intake passenger side to a special fitting and doubled off for the IWE solenoid. we just went thru this for another poster .Your whipple people should know all this and how to deal with it . .
Thanks redfish for the reply. You would think so and I’m going to quadruple check that when I get off today. The install instruction for the blower I didn’t really care for bc they were black and white and quite a bit of info didn’t pertain to my year model and it confused a little and I don’t get confused often,just saying. I need to check the tps extender that cake with itvto make sure everything is good. I don’t see why it wouldn’t be bc I’m sure it would throw a code but hey this thing is hard to throw a code. I think that’s why whipple says to make sure your engine running right and no trouble codes before installing supercharger. I need to search for info on effects of vacuum on frps. Thanks again redfish. Do you do a lot of redfishing?
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