No accelerator until GPR clicks off
#1
No accelerator until GPR clicks off
Been chasing this since February. 2000 F350 with no pedal response.
I've narrowed it down to after about 30 seconds it starts working, basically when the GPR clicks and the glow plugs turn off. I can turn the key ON and not crank it and wait until the GPR clicks, crank it and get pedal right away. I can crank the truck and have to wait until the GPR clicks to get pedal. I haven't road tested because I'm nervous it'll cut out at the wrong time.
Check engine comes on when pedal is pressed more than 1/2 way. I can't see codes on reader.
Here is what I've done:
Replaced pedal assemble complete with new sensors
Bypassed IVS wire from firewall harness to PCM wire with a direct wire.
Checked fuse #45/19 specifically and all other fuses.
Checked OD wire. Heat shrink was worn but no copper exposed. Liquid taped it and electrical taped over it anyway.
PCM sent off and tested. Mobile mechanic put his computer on it and said the PCM wasn't seeing the signal but don't remember exactly what he said.
Someone said check ICP and has oil in it. Unplugging it doesn't change anything. I cleaned it and within a few seconds after startup had oil in it again. The harness is also loose. You can pull it out almost 1/4" and when holding it while it's running it'll shock you.
Here's where I'm at right now as on 10/17/18:
Replaced glow plugs because one showed 1000 ohms of resistance while others were 2 or less. Did not fix the problem.
If I unhook the glow plugs wires (yellow and brown) from the glow plug relay, I have pedal right away. If I hook them back up, wait until the GPR clicks and turns off the glow plugs I have pedal. It doesn't matter if truck is running or just "on" position.
I've narrowed it down to after about 30 seconds it starts working, basically when the GPR clicks and the glow plugs turn off. I can turn the key ON and not crank it and wait until the GPR clicks, crank it and get pedal right away. I can crank the truck and have to wait until the GPR clicks to get pedal. I haven't road tested because I'm nervous it'll cut out at the wrong time.
Check engine comes on when pedal is pressed more than 1/2 way. I can't see codes on reader.
Here is what I've done:
Replaced pedal assemble complete with new sensors
Bypassed IVS wire from firewall harness to PCM wire with a direct wire.
Checked fuse #45/19 specifically and all other fuses.
Checked OD wire. Heat shrink was worn but no copper exposed. Liquid taped it and electrical taped over it anyway.
PCM sent off and tested. Mobile mechanic put his computer on it and said the PCM wasn't seeing the signal but don't remember exactly what he said.
Someone said check ICP and has oil in it. Unplugging it doesn't change anything. I cleaned it and within a few seconds after startup had oil in it again. The harness is also loose. You can pull it out almost 1/4" and when holding it while it's running it'll shock you.
Here's where I'm at right now as on 10/17/18:
Replaced glow plugs because one showed 1000 ohms of resistance while others were 2 or less. Did not fix the problem.
If I unhook the glow plugs wires (yellow and brown) from the glow plug relay, I have pedal right away. If I hook them back up, wait until the GPR clicks and turns off the glow plugs I have pedal. It doesn't matter if truck is running or just "on" position.
#3
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#5
YOu said you had the PCM sent off and checked but what about the GEM? I believe it stands for Generic Equip Module. Not sure if it controls the throttle or affects the TPS but....seems you have already gone thru a few things but I'm not sure if the GEM could affect this.
Doesn't look like you can test the GEM, or don't see anyone that does.
#6
Narrowed it down further. I replaced the GPR with a new White Rogers I've had in the garage waiting to go on. Problem still existed. I unhooked the yellow and brown wires that go to the glow plugs and had pedal immediately. Hooked them back up and lost it again.
On to the glow plug circuit now! Going to check the valve cover harness and ohm out the plugs.
On to the glow plug circuit now! Going to check the valve cover harness and ohm out the plugs.
#7
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#9
I updated my original post with my test procedures just in case people have this in the future. Definitely only using MC GP's.
#10
Im bad, really bad electrical especially its lingo. The "common" at the harness is used to probe with the black lead from the multimeter. The red probe is used to test, i believe, iscthe injector leads. To test the gp's, either probe to use pin, and other probe at neg battery post....see how bad i am with this crap. For me, i use this when testing, helps fight them tight spots..hey, btw thanks for 1stvpic. I gotta test that oil temp sender now. I have a manual grd switch to activate/deact my gpr to light gp's up
#12
Not the glow plugs. Put all new in and same issue. They read -104 resistance on the 200 dial setting when the truck is running. Anyone care to check theirs?
If I unhook them from the glow plug relay I have pedal right away still. I also have a white wire with green tracer on the same post. Don’t know where it goes but had no continuity on it. Doesn’t matter if it’s connected to the GPR.
I did notice when I hook up the glow plugs the batter pulls down hard and stays there even after they turn off. If I leave them I hooked it doesn change. Batteries are only a few weeks old.
If I unhook them from the glow plug relay I have pedal right away still. I also have a white wire with green tracer on the same post. Don’t know where it goes but had no continuity on it. Doesn’t matter if it’s connected to the GPR.
I did notice when I hook up the glow plugs the batter pulls down hard and stays there even after they turn off. If I leave them I hooked it doesn change. Batteries are only a few weeks old.
#13
Not the glow plugs. Put all new in and same issue. They read -104 resistance on the 200 dial setting when the truck is running. Anyone care to check theirs?
If I unhook them from the glow plug relay I have pedal right away still. I also have a white wire with green tracer on the same post. Don’t know where it goes but had no continuity on it. Doesn’t matter if it’s connected to the GPR.
I did notice when I hook up the glow plugs the batter pulls down hard and stays there even after they turn off. If I leave them I hooked it doesn change. Batteries are only a few weeks old.
If I unhook them from the glow plug relay I have pedal right away still. I also have a white wire with green tracer on the same post. Don’t know where it goes but had no continuity on it. Doesn’t matter if it’s connected to the GPR.
I did notice when I hook up the glow plugs the batter pulls down hard and stays there even after they turn off. If I leave them I hooked it doesn change. Batteries are only a few weeks old.
#14
Most definitely!!! At the very least after your work, surgically clean and treat all grounds (major) and your supply lines.
I equate what your doing to surgery in terms of fixing and solving a problem.
Hat's off
BTW, Cleaning your hard points on these rigs are something to be done at least bi-annual. Otherwise..................
Denny
I equate what your doing to surgery in terms of fixing and solving a problem.
Hat's off
BTW, Cleaning your hard points on these rigs are something to be done at least bi-annual. Otherwise..................
Denny
#15