When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i have a '92 f-150 w/ the 5.0 v8. lately its been stalling. it ususally happens right after i start it up or as i slow down or stop. what happens is the rpm's will fall to 3 hundred or so and it will run real rough for a second or two, trying to stay going. then it will just stall. sometimes it starts right back up, and sometimes it doesnt want to start. recent repairs: i have had to have a mechanic install a new instrument cluster and starter motor in the last month. i have changed the fuel filter, thinking it might be that, since it was the original. didnt fix it. then i replaced all spark plugs, wires, and cleaned all contacts on the dist. cap to make sure everything was goood there. i am still stalling. any ideas? i am just waiting for the day i stall in a busy intersection.
Sounds like it could be your air-bypass valve. It's a little electrically operated valve on the side of the throttle body which lets air into the engine at idle. If it's sticking shut, then when you let off the gas, it doesn't open all the way, engine doesn't get air and it struggles. Try cleaning the valve before anything else. Just take it off and use a good spray throttle body cleaner on it. Clean the air holes in the throttle body as well.
fast idle is working fine, problem is only when the car is in park or when i stop at a light or something.
i dont know if these problems could be related. but yesterday i noticed the stalling problem is much more worse when i am running my a/c, but it will still do this occasionally w/o the a/c going. plus my heater would not blow hot air this morning...it was just outside air (which was very cold).
How's it going...
I recently posted a message on the board on the 25th of April entitled "engine stalling". I am having the exact same problem with my truck. If you find anything that seems to remedy the problem with your truck, please leave a message on mine.
Thanks. Good luck.
If it is fuel injected, pull off the hoses from the air filter. Spray 1 or 2 cans of carb cleaner into it. Be sure to open the butterfly valves. Worked for me this weekend. 1988 F-150 351W
No one else mentioned this, but I highly recommend having the TPS sensor inspected and checked. I've had to replace it on both of my trucks with about 130k. I had stalling and hesitation with them, and replacing the tps fixed it.
I am having the same problem with my 1991 F150 XLT 4x4 with a 302. I have been posting questions about this also. I just swapped in a new motor with 10 to 1 compression, 1965 289 heads, crane cam with 484 lift 290 degrees duration and 226 degrees at 0.050 life. I have keep the fuel injection stock but removed the smog pump since the heads are pre smog heads and there is no place to for the thermotrac system to go to. I also switched from a 5 speed to a C6 trany.
The Idle is very rough and rich, after idle 1500 and up it is fine but in park it stumbles and it barely idles in gear or reverse, lots of surging
Does this sound like what yours is doing? I will look at the air bypass valve tonight and clean it. I hope this works. Down the road I am going to switch to mass air when I get the money.
You are on the right track with the Air by-pass valve. Also make sure the egr valve is closing this can cause this problem also. As can any really large vaccum leak.
Well I sprayed in some carb and choke clean while she was running. Did that make a nasty smell in the air. Anyways that helped out alot with the problem. I am going to remove the bypass valve, clean it, and reinstall it. I hope this will make it even better. I check all the vacuum connections and everything is good. I still have a question about the two lines that come out of the TAD/TAB switchs and what to do with them. I have no emissions (except for cats) and I just plugged these vacuum lines. Should they be open or do I leave them plugged?
I also have the TAD and TAB lines. I just plugged them and that seems to work fine. The only line I have hooked up is to the EGR valve. Hope this helps.