Wondering opinions on to buy or not to buy a 1997 e250 extended van with 4.6. I havent seen it in person yet as it is a couple hours away from me .. The owner says it has about 111,xxx miles. It has rusted through the rear wheelwell. Overall he says it is rough cosmetically but runs really well..no leaks or smoke. Good tires.. hes askin only $1500

what are common issues to look for on this year and model?

anything to be mindful of specifically?

thanks for any input!

 

That's not a bad asking price but naturally the rust might be an issue---how long do you hope, expect or need this one to last? Do you own anything with the Modular Motors now or in the recent past?

Re: rust---I'd check the rear floor just over the rear axle---if the stock floor mat is still in place pull it back to see if its caused its usual floor rust back there. In general that matting both front and rear have been known to cause significant rust holes, up front to the point the toe areas are occasionally rusted completely through---almost dangerous to put your body weight nearest where the metal forms upward towards the firewall. Some time ago I posted a thread about this, here's a link but some photos originally hosted by PhotoBucket are gone---I could post a few here if this is of interest otherwise: Floor Rust

The motor is well-proven but depending how much weight you intend to haul its a bit underpowered for the E-Series chassis IMHO. It will have the non-PI heads and intake but that's not a huge deterrent really. Mileage isn't bad at all, I'd buy any Ford with a modular motor with that low mileage. It would be great if the current owner has any service records such as oil and all filter change intervals. While some swear those engines go at least 100K miles on the same plugs I disagree---changing them after that long a time can be a real bear.

Transmission should be a 4R70W which is very long-lived and strong enough for most uses. It might benefit from Mark Kovalsky's full fluid flush if you'll be keeping the van.

That year modular motor was or still might be thought to be prone to ejecting a plug but if it hasn't thrown one by now chances are its not going to happen. Of course installing plugs correctly is key to preventing that so be advised if that's something you'd consider if you buy.

That's things in a nutshell---feel free to ask any specific questions

 

Awesome, thanks for the feedback!

The van would primarily be used to haul around a dirtbike and gear/tools..easily less than 1000 lbs.. the rest of its use would probably just be spare transportation/helping move furniture on occasion..odds/ends. I would not pull anything with it likely and mostly drive it empty. I'd be happy to get a few years out of it. Thanks for the tip on the rust, I will see if I can pull back the mat for closer assessment. I have no body work experience, is it easy/possible to patch if its not to bad? The guy selling says he has not done a single thing to it as he has only owned it since may of this year. Apparently it was purchased for his daughter to complete a student painters assignment. (There is spilled paint all over the back of the van lol) I'm waiting to hear back if he has records of it, where he purchased from..hx..ect.

I have read that the transmission is a common weakness on this year/model..but you are saying its pretty strong?

Any common engine/trans leaks or noises or anything to look for?

Thanks again!

 

I'm spoiled and run away from rust regardless of price.

Years ago I spent a week driving an E150 passenger van with a 4.6. With 6 people in it and gear, it was a dog.

My experience with high mileage mod motors (2x 4.6 and 1x 5.4 all with 200K+ miles) is exceptional.
Low oil use and very robust - all were overheated at least once - both 4.6s were overheated multiple times due to plastic coolant crossover on the intake manifold in passenger cars (1 Crown Vic and 1 Town Car). I mean REALLY overheated - I expected blown head gaskets or similar. Nope. No issues at all.

Power is adequate to underwhelming.

I do wish I had lower gears or 10 cylinders with the 5.4 in my van when I have my trailer behind it. I tow about 3000lbs with another 5-700 in the van. 99% highway 500-1200 miles at a time. If I'm driving 70ish and catch a headwind or a grade, the van needs 3rd gear. If I drive 80ish it's almost a non-issue but I don't like 80ish. Van has an open 3.73. I've been thinking about a 4.56. I figure, if I'm going to make the change, I might as well make a CHANGE. And 4.56 in OD is taller than 3.73 in 3rd. but I'm rambling now...

 

 

Two things to know about rust:

1. It's never lonely.
2. It never sleeps.

If there is a rusted through wheel well, there is a lot more where that came from. Get under there with a strong flashlight and screwdriver or ice pick and poke around. Literally. You are looking for hidden rust.

Look over the brake lines carefully. They are probably shot.

 

Not to argue but I've seen quite a few E250's for sale with the 4.6 engine---wonder if they began installing that later on during production?

Good advice---just yesterday I had another brake line break mostly from rust. Most of us know factory brake lines are bare steel and very prone to rust damage. Not really a lot of testing for remaining life on a brake line but if time and budget permits and you have the skills and tools to make new brake lines its not a bad way to spend some time.

Engine and transmission wise I've found the Ford stuff very strong and long-lived assuming regular and normal maintenance is performed. I'm driving a 2000 E250 with original 5.4 engine, 4R70W transmission with just over 285K miles now. At least 6 of the factory-installed COP's are original although the plugs and boots have been changed by me at least twice since new-to-me. I bought this particular van with 203K miles and salvage title way back in 2008---apart from an alternator nothing else has been replaced.

Sounds possible current owner doesn't have or know the maintenance history which isn't necessarily a deal breaker. A simple test drive in city traffic and a blast up the freeway should tell you a lot. (When I bought the 2000 E250 I drove it about 500 feet before knowing it was mine. )

Some things I'd suggest If you do buy this one get a pH tester for the coolant and change it ASAP if its even close to being acidic. Use a quality cooling system flush, and run it for about 100 miles. Drain the system, re-fill with straight water and drive another 100 miles. Drain that water and refill with anti-freeze---I use the pre-diluted stuff as its really most convenient, can find the good stuff on sale now and again. Be advised the cooling systems hold a whooping 4 gallons.

Change oil unless its been done within 6 months or 3,000 miles. Maybe check plugs and boots, careful to not damage the COP connectors and make sure you properly torque the plugs. The full fluid transmission flush I highly recommend too.

Not to discount the purchase amount but for $1500 you'll have a fairly nice beater truck, chances are it'll last more than just a few years. Of course every used car/truck purchase is a crap shoot--my new-to-me 2005 E350 extended body & 5.4 2V with just over 142K miles needed a reman'd engine---due previous fleet use and abuse I'm sure. Transmission too but I'm lucky to know a lot of talented reliable mechanics who work somewhat cheap.

Let us know if this one follows you home!

 

 

Could be---won't disagree with your printed info 98E150! Seems the 4.6 might have become available late, like into the 2000's. Here's an example: 4.6 E250

Being skeptical of eBay's system I ran that VIN through FTE's Decoder and even called my Ford parts guy---they all agree it has the 4.6. Interesting.

When I was looking through FleaBay for a new-to-me E-Something I came across more than a few E250's where the listing showed them having a 4.6. immediately eliminated those as that motor is just too under powered for my needs. For light duty use and not towing anything it might be great.

Sorry to highjack your thread 85F150 but sometimes we have erroneous info, in my case it might have eliminated a lot of otherwise great trucks I could have had if the listing was wrong.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I don't blame you on the rust. Its pretty much unavoidable in my area..lol.

Thanks! I was wondering if something like that might be the case. I have yet to hear back from the seller. It has a V8 badge on it, but no clue on the size of the engine. Will keep it posted!

Good thoughts, will definitely do that! I'm hoping its not terrible. His pictures are not the greatest either. Have you any experience with Chassis saver?

Yeah I'm thinking for $1500 I can't be toooo picky. lol. Bummer about needing that reman'd engine.. I don't have any personal experience but I always had the impression fleet maintained was a good thing? I appreciate the feedback will def consider checking over all of that!

No need to be sorry. I appreciate all the good advice guys! Chances are this thing will be used to haul a dirt bike around during the summer months and just spare transportation/ beat truck the rest of the time. Still haven't heard from seller, so will be sure to keep the thread updated. Thanks again!

 

Good to know---we only need to solve this mystery when the 4.6's were introduced into the E250's? Wondering if it was about the time the E150's became essentially E250's except for the badges.

 

 

My number one rule in buying ANY vehicle, new or used, is to take it on a LONG test drive …. I mean AT LEAST a one hour drive if not more, and cover 50-100 miles, city, highway, put it through the paces, otherwise it's just a crap-shoot and you'll have no idea the true mechanical condition of the vehicle. Physically looking over the vehicle for wear and rust, condition of the frame, leakage from numerous areas, all can be done statically, but if it passes your visual exam …. take it for a LONG DRIVE, you won't be sorry once you're driving home or on your first long trip. Too many things can be hidden in just a short test drive.

 

Well, I'm not 100% sure about all other 1997 E250s but this one does NOT have the 4.6. It has the 5.4L. At least according the the FTE Vin decoder. He could not remove the floor liner easily so who knows whats underneath but he said most of the rust was at the rear of the van, and that the back was solid to walk on. I'm going to look at it today, will post back if I end up with this thing.

That is a good thought.. I'll try and drive it for as long as I can. The extent of the rust has yet to be determined but it does have holes in the bed.

 

Not too comforting but I've not seen a lot of E-Series with rusted-through spots in those you can see on this one---the left rear corner and around the back of the wheel well are fairly significant. More than likely the most troublesome area above the cross member is pretty bad too.

With a bit of work a better plywood floor could be installed that would somewhat reinforce the metal floor, enough for a few years of hauling your dirt bike and generally being a daily driver/beater van. If it runs well it's worth the $1500.

Good luck with the buy----please do update us if it follows you home!