Did the plugs correct the misfire?

 

No. I'm ready to take it to the mechanic. I know, I know - but it's a last resort. Do any of you know if a reputable mechanic will work on it if it doesn't have a CAT?

 

Your original post mentioned the injectors as a possible problem. They very well could be. Cleaning them and inspecting them will be wise at this point. Also you can rent for free a compression gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. Both are easy to use and if you do end up taking it to a shop you will have more knowledge to eliminate excessive time $$$ at the shop. Did you replace all the plugs? If so, how did the others look?

 

To add to Sandy's reply:
You can figure this out. You'll need to do more diagnosis though, as well as ensure basic maintenance has been done.

Basical maintenance includes:
Clean and solid battery connections
Solid electrical grounds
New spark plugs
New distributor cap, and rotor
plug wires replaced or ensure they're servicable
Clean the coil wire terminal
New air filter
New fuel filter
New motorcraft pcv valve

Once that baseline is done, is the problem still there?

If yes, what is the fuel pressure? Check it at idle in park, with and without vacuum to regulator, then under load (drive up the biggest hill you can find or use an empty highway to accelerate). Pressure must rise under load, not fall.

Fuel pressure OK? Check compression on all cylinders. If this is bad/low, the engine needs to be serviced. Perform a leak down test to determine what is worn or has failed.

 

Well, I was finally able to do a compression test and cylinder 1 and 2 has 0 psi. Cylinders 3,4, and 6 have 170 psi and cylinder 5 has 160 psi. I've never seen a cylinder with 0 psi before, let alone two of them. What does that mean - or do i want to know?..........

 

Well dang, that's not what you want to see.

Time for a leak down test to find out if its valves, head gasket, or piston seal issues. If valves or head gasket, you might get away with a head rebuild and be on your way. I would put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on before digging in, to make sure the bottom end isn't shot too.

 

^ what he said. 2 cylinders with 0 PSI ain't a good sign. If it ain't a gasket or valves I am betting tore up rings (Have you checked the oil for metal parts in it?) or a hole burnt in a piston.

 

I don't have a leak down tester, so I'll take it to a shop and have them do a leak down test. Last night, I was all bummed out about the expense I'm staring at, but after watching a few you tube videos and reading through the service manual, it actually looks like a job I can do. It will also give me a chance to fix some things inside the engine bay that I've been meaning to do for awhile. Hopefully, it's just the heads, we'll see.

 

Hope you get it figured out and it is the least costly solution. Keep us updated on what you find!

 

Yeah it sucks to pay for it all. Seems like the timing is always **** poor too.
If you have an air compressor, go rent the leak down tester from the parts house (if available: Orielly usually has them). You can also sometimes use the compression tester to make a leak down tester. Really you don't care the percent leakage here, just want to know if it's leaking out the intake, exhaust, or into the crank case. So just some way to get air into the CC will do the job.

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Well, a leak down test shows it's either the valves or a cracked head. I guess that's as good as the news could be at this point. At least it's not the rings. I'm going to take the head off and take it to a small machine shop near me to see if it just needs a valve job, or if the head is cracked - if it's not apparent when I take it off.

 

Lets hope it's just valves, the least costly situation. Hopefully you will have her up and running soon and rolling down the road.

 

Thanks. If I run into problems, i'll post them. BTW, where in AZ do you live Zombie? Used to live in Chandler in the mid 70's for a few years.

 

I am in North East Arkansas. It's home for now. Was born and raised in Michigan, On the shores of Lake Michigan, town called Ludington.

 

Of course - AZ is Arizona, AR is Arkansas. I spend 2-3 weeks every summer near Ludington on Hamlin Lake. Anyway, on to the project. I spent all weekend working on the truck and finally got the heads off. Spent 3-4 hours Saturday and 5-6 hours yesterday. Most of these bolts/nuts/screws have not been moved in 22 years. Getting the alternator bracket off was an exercise in patience to be sure. That alone took 2-3 hours. I tagged as many lines/hoses/wires as I could, and I hope to God I can remember the routing that all of these things took when it was put together. Most of the vacuum lines broke. I broke the temp sensor, and I also broke the two-tabbed bracket that holds the EGR. I also broke the two little tubes (the service manual calls them "transducer hoses") that come off of the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. I don't know if they can be re-soldered on, or if I have to get a new one - if they're even available. Any advice on this? Also - a tip for anyone that needs to do this in the future - take the time to remove the passenger side plastic wheel well. Most of the connectors/screws rusted off as I tried to loosen them, but it really gives great access to everything on that side of the engine - intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc. Taking the heads to a machine shop today, and ordering all of the new gaskets, new vacuum lines, a temp sensor, and some other parts.