horn not working
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From: Thomson, GA
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From: Houston TX
horn not working
Could also be bad horn contacts. Corrosion builds up and ruins the connection between the little horn "brass button" and the horn cap. If I had to bet $$$, I'd probably say the relay is good. They don't get used enough to hardly wear out. BTW, if you have to take the horn cap off, unplug the horn under the hood. The cap twists counterclockwise a small bit to clear the tab slots, and it will come off. Don't try to force it, the tabs will break off. Push the cap in a little as you twist. It's a quick test to see if the cap/button is the problem. Just jump a screwdriver from the brass button to the ground of the wheel. IE: metal parts in the middle. I had this problem on mine. I had to clean the top of the button so it's nice and shiny. MK
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From: Houston TX
horn not working
Dang....I just thought of something....You probably have a two spoke wheel on a 72....The horn contacts are different, and are kind of like strips under the rubber part I think. But it's still quite possible the contacts are the problem. MK
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From: Huntersville
horn not working
The horn works by grounding. In other words when you push the horn it makes a ground to operate the horn. Alot of times the problem is the rag joint at the end of the column. I had to make a jumper to jump the rag joint in order for my column to have a ground. When the rag joint is changed or becomes worn out there is a metal tang the make a ground path between the steering gear and the column. This gets bent or broken off loosing the ground path. Try grounding your steering column and see if the horn works
Clint
Clint
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horn not working
I tried removing the relay and lightly sanding the back to get a better ground. While I had the relay off, I use my volt meter to see if the relay had continuity with and without power to it. It has none. I know the horn works because I tested it with a test wire and the horn is good and loud. The contacts on the steering wheel are like new. They are very clean. Should there be any power on any other of the wire harness connections that plugs into the relay. I get power on only one of the connector terminals inside the harness with and without pressing the horn button. Is this right? I didn't try grounding the steering column. I ran out of daylight. I think I'll get a new relay tommorrow at NAPA. They carry them. Thanks for the help.
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From: Houston TX
horn not working
Might be the relay if you put power to it, and it didn't work. I haven't really looked at one too closely, but seems you would have two primary connections for the coil, and then maybe two connections for the relay contacts. Thats all it should should need anyway. Did you trying ohming the coil winding for continuity? It should show almost a short. If the winding is open, the relay is shot. I guess you could also have relay contact problems in some cases, but fairly rare I think. Are you sure you applied voltage to the coil? Might have powered up a relay contact by mistake maybe??? I'd also check the ground as one mentioned. I guess horn relays can fry, but I've never had to change one in any of the cars I've ever owned. They just don't get too much work usually. MK
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From: Thomson, GA
horn not working
I snaggeed one out of a junkyard. I dont have the funding for those fancy-schmancy new parts! I have gotten headlights from the junkyard before- 2 of em for $5!
Before you go to napa, clean the ring connection on the starter solenoid. That powers the whole system. Its the yellow wire on the battery side of the solenoid.
Before you go to napa, clean the ring connection on the starter solenoid. That powers the whole system. Its the yellow wire on the battery side of the solenoid.
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From: Houston TX
Not sure about the ring. I think it's attached in some way to the horn cap. To take the cap off, first unhook the wire to the horn under the hood. Then push in a little on the cap, and slowly twist counterclockwise. You don't have to twist too far. Thinking like a clock, about 1 hours worth of turning to the left should clear the tabs, and it will pop right off. Never force!!! It will break the plastic tabs on the horn retainer plate. MK
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From: TEXAS
I had the same prob with my 70 except it fried a bunch of wires cause the guy who had it before messed it up so took all that junk out and then ground it and ran the positve to horn button off the horn and then ran that the fuse box works great and best of all it aint jimmy rigged.....just i thought
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From: texas
I am having the same or similar prob w/83F150. Jumped the horns with a hot wire, they work. When I push the horn rubber/contact strip cover, all I get is a thud sound (even tough while driving I have heard the horns attempt to work, but weakly), and this is after havingreplaced the horn relay. I haven't tried grounding the steerig column. All that aside, whats thebest guess possibility here? Hope I'm not being redundant or thick.