hard bucking
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
hard bucking
Greetings all,
Ive got an 06 6.0 PSD with 230k miles, EGR delete, blue spring, and straight pipe turbo back. Ive got a crazy bucking at between 1500-2000 rpm when I'm cruising. If i accelerate the truck feels like its gonna shake apart. Some of the stuff I read said this is indicative of a bad EGR, my question is, the EGR valve is still in place meaning its not capped, i cleaned it the other week and there was no change. Does the EGR valve still have an effect on the engine if it is still plugged in and functioning? Should I fashion a piece of aluminum and cap it my self? I have scanned truck numerous times only to get a P0401 code which is the EGR delete code, but Ive had that code since the EGR delete was done (3 years ago). Just started noticing this bucking the past couple months getting worse and worse.
Recently changed oil and all filters, fuel and oil.
Any help is appreciated
Ive got an 06 6.0 PSD with 230k miles, EGR delete, blue spring, and straight pipe turbo back. Ive got a crazy bucking at between 1500-2000 rpm when I'm cruising. If i accelerate the truck feels like its gonna shake apart. Some of the stuff I read said this is indicative of a bad EGR, my question is, the EGR valve is still in place meaning its not capped, i cleaned it the other week and there was no change. Does the EGR valve still have an effect on the engine if it is still plugged in and functioning? Should I fashion a piece of aluminum and cap it my self? I have scanned truck numerous times only to get a P0401 code which is the EGR delete code, but Ive had that code since the EGR delete was done (3 years ago). Just started noticing this bucking the past couple months getting worse and worse.
Recently changed oil and all filters, fuel and oil.
Any help is appreciated
Last edited by D Craig; Sep 14, 2018 at 02:20 PM. Reason: correction
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
What are your ICP and IPR readings when this happens?
Does it act like it starts to missfire?
Leaving the EGR in place and plugged in is the best bet since it does to some extent affect the operation of the cooling fan clutch
Does it act like it starts to missfire?
Leaving the EGR in place and plugged in is the best bet since it does to some extent affect the operation of the cooling fan clutch
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Interesting you mention the fan clutch, my fan goes on and off literally all day long. Temp won't even be high, this afternoon driving home eot and water temps right around 170 and the fan was on?? My AC blows hot sometimes too I've got a leak, Ive been told that the fan clutch could be sensing the high or low pressure drop in the AC heating up the compressor so the fan is kicking on thinking the engine is hot?? makes sense, but I'm a fireman not a mechanic... My IPR and ICP numbers are as follows...
70-75 mph 2000-2200 rpm
IPR was around 45-50
ICP was around 1600-1900
Floored it up to 90 mph
IPR 78
ICP 3300
boost only gets to about 20 psi
Could my actual EGR valve be bad causing this problem??
Thanks again for your help!!
70-75 mph 2000-2200 rpm
IPR was around 45-50
ICP was around 1600-1900
Floored it up to 90 mph
IPR 78
ICP 3300
boost only gets to about 20 psi
Could my actual EGR valve be bad causing this problem??
Thanks again for your help!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,826
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Your Egr is probably commanding closed which is sending the TPS ( throttle position sensor ) and butterfly plate closed aswell , if you don’t need to Smog , most take the butterfly plate out, you can watch this on your gauge TPS or ETP
TXD-07E022096C RXF-04620509066C RXD- 3010 MTH- 00647FFF0000 =ETP
may also need to look at ICPV Injector Control volts , the pig tail has been known to short out when heated up at the ICP connection .
TXD-07E02216AD RXF-0462451606AD RXD-3010 MTH- 00482700000= ICV
check all your Cac boots , both sides by the battery’s and hot/ cold side of your turbo , may be a tear in the boot that’s not giving you enough boost.
TXD-07E022096C RXF-04620509066C RXD- 3010 MTH- 00647FFF0000 =ETP
may also need to look at ICPV Injector Control volts , the pig tail has been known to short out when heated up at the ICP connection .
TXD-07E02216AD RXF-0462451606AD RXD-3010 MTH- 00482700000= ICV
check all your Cac boots , both sides by the battery’s and hot/ cold side of your turbo , may be a tear in the boot that’s not giving you enough boost.
Last edited by 04badford; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:45 PM. Reason: adding
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
You should be seeing more than 20 lbs unloaded at WOT.
And yes, I've read the PCM commands the fan on a whole host of things, but for sure the A/C is in the loop on that.
I am wondering though since you are only seeing 3300 lbs at WOT if you have a leak somewhere on the HPO side.
You should be pushing upwards of 4000, even over on healthy system.
Do you have any issues with long hot starts?
Could be something besides a leak however, so don't jump to conclusions yet.
And yes, I've read the PCM commands the fan on a whole host of things, but for sure the A/C is in the loop on that.
I am wondering though since you are only seeing 3300 lbs at WOT if you have a leak somewhere on the HPO side.
You should be pushing upwards of 4000, even over on healthy system.
Do you have any issues with long hot starts?
Could be something besides a leak however, so don't jump to conclusions yet.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2016
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No hard starts at all, hit the key and the motor rolls 2-3 times and fires up. And my boost at wot is 22 (according to scan gauge) never even gets close to 30 or the redline. Where is this butteryfly you speak of 04badford? Is it something that can be removed or a new one in place? And yes I will check all the boots.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 94
What are you using to read codes? I thought I had a good code reader when I purchased our 6.0. It also had a bad miss fire around 1500. Worse when it shifted to overdrive. Couldn’t find any stored codes.
Eventually took it to a Ford dealer that ran a diagnostic review. It was one bad fuel injector and a couple others that were borderline. Replaced the bad one in our driveway and it ran much better.
Shortly after that we discovered Forscan. Wonderful app. It identified some misfires before we could even feel them and eventually it pointed to the same injectors the dealer said were marginal.
Eventually took it to a Ford dealer that ran a diagnostic review. It was one bad fuel injector and a couple others that were borderline. Replaced the bad one in our driveway and it ran much better.
Shortly after that we discovered Forscan. Wonderful app. It identified some misfires before we could even feel them and eventually it pointed to the same injectors the dealer said were marginal.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2016
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Scangauge II which I know won't catch a bad injector, I mainly use it to monitor temperatures and what not. I am thinking of taking it to a dealer have them run their scans, I'm pretty mechanic savvy if I know what code its throwing I can fix myself if it does throw some codes.
Last edited by D Craig; Sep 17, 2018 at 07:16 PM. Reason: correction
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,826
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,826
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
So I took my truck to a friend that has a ford stealership scanner and apparently I had both bad #4 and #8 injectors. The #4 injector failed the buzz test and immediate showed a contribution imbalance on cylinder 4, we then applied the brake and rev'd motor up to about 1800 rpm and the #8 cylinder then dropped out and the truck started to jump and shake badly. We next did the compression test, hold the pedal down WOT and crank for 10 seconds all good. I swapped the 2,4,6, and 8 injectors and holy cow what a difference!! I was basically driving a V6, so smooth now I almost thought it stalled at traffic light I had to check the rpms it was idling so smooth. I also have a bad fan clutch as well that came up on the scan, I'll replace that in the near future as thats not a critical fix. Thanks for the info peeps. Until next time.... Let er rip tater chip
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