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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
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Follow up

This is a follow up to the question I posed a few weeks ago. At the time I thought I had a trans leak at the front seal only to find out that the trans was not intact leaking at all but rather the leak is coming from the dip stick housing where it attaches to the side of the oil pan. the leak is not yet a major issue but it can only get worse. What is the best way to fix the oil dip stick tubing? For the record I hate oil leaks and messy undercarriages. Any ideas, short of pulling the motor as I have been informed by a mechanic. Need help.. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 01:29 PM
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There is a kit you can buy but cost like 265$ and up. its the best fix without pulling the engine. You can tighten the nut down a little and gob up with RTV or something. That is what i did. it has lasted a few years so far but others have not been so lucky.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 02:25 PM
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From: Bahstun
You can replace the oring inside the engine and apply TA31 to help it seal better with out removing the pan or taking engine out.

If the fitting flare is bent, then not much is going to fix it as the flair holds the oring tension.

The gold nugget fix is nice but pricey and another came up with a solution but has not been on sale for a bit for half the cost.

Mine leaks and going to try loosen the nut, add in some TA31 around the oring and tighten up the nut.
This has to be done after it sits for 5 days with the adapter undone. Why? oil drips happen for a long time and a few members have dropped their pan and it took 5 days for the drips to stop so they could do the pan gasket.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 02:26 PM
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https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...werstroke.aspx This is the easiest way to fix that leak. It's a little expensive, but it beats pulling the engine to remove the oil pan.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 02:31 PM
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 04:17 PM
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Well look who came to visit, Hows it been Mike.
Also OP, I fixed one at work successfully by holding the insde piece with some needle nose pliers, taking out the old O ring with a pick and installing the new O ring and just re tighten the nut so.far no leaks on that work truck.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 05:10 PM
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Adam I’ve been good but very busy.
My dad turn his LTL Freight business over to me 2 years ago and I just opened a second location
min Elizabeth, NJ so trying to be in two places at the same time rough.

How have you been ?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 06:41 PM
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Been great man glad evrything is going great for you man.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 01:39 PM
  #9  
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Thanks for the info and the economical remedy.. Not wanting to pull the motor at all. I give it a whirl. Hopefully, it does the trick. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 09:19 PM
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That first link in a PITA, tried it twice and still leaks. So, I bought what I call the gold nugget and not a drop of oil leaks now.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 11:02 PM
  #11  
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Glenn, Thanks for your feedback. I would prefer to pay the higher price for the 'gold standard' and do the job once and be done.
I hope your new engine is working fine and keeping you on the open road.
Thanks.
Skip
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 07:39 AM
  #12  
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So far so good Skip on the Jasper motor. When the guy was swapping over motors he asked if I wanted to sell the 'gold nugget' and I said no. When the Jasper motor dipstick seal starts to leak I'll have it to put in.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:52 AM
  #13  
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When I was doing my engine o did this

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...apter-mod.html
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 11:04 AM
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I like the idea of welding it. The bung fitting didn't make sense to me.

My 69 140 fuel tank is silver soldered at the seam. Has never leaked.

This might be less warping than welding.

I am thinking it could be silver soldered while engine is in and just make the round part wider to fit on the out side of the pan.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 11:42 AM
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I did it with a tig and had no issues with warping.
 
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