Gears
I've read about 200 posts reguarding this Question, can't rap my head around any answer YET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MY f250 has an 05 front axle 02 rear both with 3.73 gears. real long story how I got there, (LATER with Beer only)
I carry a 13' camper and tow my 16' trailer with Jeep yj.
SO I am trying figure what I should do about GEARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have 3 options as of trying to figure this out so far.
1st REAR END Shop livermore, CA $2k drive in regear to 4.30's drive out
2nd SC Truck $1500 same but used gears
3rd. buy a set of 06 4.10's complete $1100. Do in and out myself and then sell 3.73's for 600 to friend
Your Thoughts Please???????????????????????
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
Now still 1999 vin number
2003 v10 brand new
2002 tranny and transfer case. 60k 4r100
tires are 265/70/18
the rest is in first post
13" northern light camper 3600lbs from chp scales "wet"
16" flatbed trailer with 1991/1974 YJ don't have weight yet on this but say 4.5k for both tow items. oh yes 15lb mountain bike, lol
I am planing on traveling to National Parks and working for a few years
Scott/ Crazyman, never had an idea i couldn't make work
Last edited by vividus; Sep 7, 2018 at 06:15 PM. Reason: more info
In short, I'd suggest getting the 4.30 gears to replace the 3.73s. This ratio was a factory option in 2000 (I don't have 1999 specs), and it increased the GCWR for an F250 V10 4R100 from 17K lbs. to 20K lbs. The 4.30s should help acceleration from a stop (due to 4R100's long 2.71:1 first gear), help overcome the camper's significant aerodynamic drag, and also help with high-altitude performance (thin air = lower HP). They'll also help a bit with the 265/70R18 tires, which are ~3% larger than the original stock 235/80R16s or 265/75R16s.
The described combination of truck, camper, and trailer will likely result in low fuel economy. To limit transmission hunting, lock out fourth gear, which will allow third gear to lock up the torque converter and help the transmission run cooler.
Here are some other issues to ponder:
I'm assuming your truck has an 8' bed, but the cab configuration (regular-, super-, or crew) isn't known.
The 1999 F250's GVWR was 8800 lbs. Allowing for a present-configuration truck curb weight of perhaps 6000 lbs., that leaves ~2800 lbs. for the camper, you, and any other passengers, tools, or other cargo. A CAT scale weigh of the truck will provide accurate numbers.
The camper's wet weight of 3,600 lbs. – which doesn't include the driver or other stuff in the cab – far exceeds this estimated payload value. The larger tires (3195 lbs. each load capacity at 80 psi cold) and axles are probably OK, but this payload will easily bottom out the F250's stock rear suspension. So, you may need to look into a rear suspension upgrade, perhaps something like the springs from a 1999 F350.
To put this in perspective, I wouldn't begin to consider carrying a 3600 lbs. camper on our 2019 F350.
If your truck isn't fitted with the optional camper package, then you may want to consider installing a rear anti-roll bar. Check with Hellwig.For a camper that weighs 3600 lbs., I'm assuming the 13' measurement provided is for the floor length, and not the overall length. Check the camper's center of gravity spec to make sure it's ahead of the front axle.
Does your trailer have brakes? If not, the truck's stock brakes may have trouble controlling ~14.5K lbs. on long/steep downhill runs.
What kind of tie-downs and turnbuckles are you planning to use to secure the camper to the truck?
Finally, you mentioned a CHP scale. What will happen when then the CHP weighs your loaded truck (truck + driver + stuff + camper +trailer tongue weight) and finds that it exceeds the factory GVWR?
I really do hope this helps, and I wish you the best of luck with your NPS adventure!
Regards,
Jim / crewzer
Weight wise, you're asking a lot of a 20 year old truck. For the cost of this driveline gear change, plus suspension work that's normal after that time, plus upgrades to handle almost 4000# of cargo weight, you might could almost swing upgrading to a dually of a similar model year range. IMO you're asking a lot of the 10.5" rear axle in your application.
One option could be a D80 rear axle swap combined with six dually wheels and a front gear change. Does bupkis in terms of legality (that's a debate for another thread), but addresses what sounds like your weakest link in the rear axle and tire loading.
Last edited by vividus; Sep 8, 2018 at 12:09 PM. Reason: need to calm down.
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then you change rear springs to 08 and newer longer spring and your gvw goes up
43-168hd from sdtrucksprings.com 190 each plus 150 for shipping.
And I bought 06 front and rear axle with LS and 4.10 gears this morning for 1100.00
And afriend is buyine my 3.73's for 6 hundred on friday.
so for 1100 and my labor (big deal)
I got upgraded rear axle and weight and upgraded front axles
4.10's and upgraded weight limit.
See you all on the happy trails
then you change rear springs to 08 and newer longer spring and your gvw goes up
43-168hd from sdtrucksprings.com 190 each plus 150 for shipping.
And I bought 06 front and rear axle with LS and 4.10 gears this morning for 1100.00
And afriend is buyine my 3.73's for 6 hundred on friday.
so for 1100 and my labor (big deal)
I got upgraded rear axle and weight and upgraded front axles
4.10's and upgraded weight limit.
See you all on the happy trails
Don't you people rear
See the part about the 2002 rear axle you have? What that translates to is the axle you have under the truck will be 100%+ maxed on it's rating. Not the springs, not the brakes, not the tires, not a nebulous internet weight cop BS argument, but the actual bearings on your rear axle will be at capacity. Because you don't have the rear axle that was upgraded and is still in use on 2017+ trucks. You have a much older version with smaller rear bearings and a smaller pinion. You said this:
Which is bull****, because you still have the same old 10.5" rear axle. To be clear I didn't say you used 08+ parts, try reading this again:












