I think I explained it backwards, but here is a video about it.

 

You explained it just fine.
I just couldn't understand the mechanics of it.
Carefully, I tightend the c-clamp just enough to lock the rotor, then removed the clamp. The rotor now turns much easier than before.
Now that I'm not affraid of breaking something, do I need to do it with a bit more torque again?
Much obliged.

 

I applied the brakes, then tried to turn the wheel again, its hard to turn just like it was before.
Do you think that I'm ready to start on replacing hoses, pads and calipers, or do I need to check somethinelse while I'm at it?

 

I suggest at a minimum replacing brake pads, both calipers, and rotors. I replaced both hoses with new old stock Ford OEM hoses on the front.
I have 2 Ford vans. Both had frozen calipers. I replaced 2 front rotors in one van as the run-out was out of specification. I replaced the front passenger side rotor in the other van.

You can buy new rotors on Amazon under $60. I bought AC Delco for both vans.

I found new old stock Ford OEM calipers on eBay for about $60 each. One set came with Ford OEM pads!

Rebuilding the calipers is easier than one thinks. I pulled apart a caliper 3 weeks ago and it was so pitted and worn that I discarded the caliper. I bought the seals for the other side and will rebuild it and use as a spare.

 

Coolfeet,
You think I should consider replacing the rotors as well?
I dont know if that would make a diffrence, but the milage on the van (1998) is less than 51,000 miles.

 

I would not replace the rotors unless there is evidence of overheating. If they did they would likely be warped and you would feel that when braking because the front end or steering wheel would shake or wobble when braking. Especially noticeable when coming down an off ramp from the Interstate. Check the surface and see how smooth they are. If there is some grooving you can take them to a machine shop and have them turned/re-surfaced.

 

Another Question:
Holding the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock position, then rocking it right and left, there was 3/16" movement. is that normal?

 

 

 

 

I must be very fortunate. We have a guy here that has the equipment to turn them on the vehicle without having to remove them. I drive my E350 hard so I was always overheating them. I had a wheel get so hot it started melting the tire. The last incident warped the rotors and it made my front end shake like crazy when hard stopping. I finally got sick of constantly having issues so I bit the bullet any bought racing rotors. Quite expensive but I've not had any brake issues since doing that.

 

Yes, the wheel was attached.
There was no movement up & Down. Just side to side.