2WD Radius arm question
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: Vicksburg, MS
2WD Radius arm question
In looking through some old threads about caster/camber adjustment of the twin I-beam, someone mentioned removing the rivets from the radius arm mount. The posted said he would add shims to adjust to caster, elongate holes, and replace with bolts.
Well, my mounts already have grade 8 bolts in therm. The truck has been in my family since new (bought by my dad), and it doesn't look like anything has been adjusted. I just wanted to confirm if rivets are supposed to be there from factory.
Well, my mounts already have grade 8 bolts in therm. The truck has been in my family since new (bought by my dad), and it doesn't look like anything has been adjusted. I just wanted to confirm if rivets are supposed to be there from factory.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,623
Likes: 342
From: Albuquerque
Rivets are stock. Common practice to drill them out and replace with bolts to replace the bushings. Don't have the info handy but theres a company that makes a cam you install under the spring mount to adjust caster.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: Vicksburg, MS
I'd like to see that if you can find the info. Since the spring mount is also the radius arm top front mount, I'm guessing that's where the adjustment is built in?
I'd bet the bolts are there because my dad replaced the bushings years ago.
I'd bet the bolts are there because my dad replaced the bushings years ago.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Caster and camber are built-in. In order to change either, the beams would have to be bent according to Ford's methodology. I would not elongate any holes... that's a bad idea.
The only adjustment is for toe.
The only adjustment is for toe.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,623
Likes: 342
From: Albuquerque
https://www.stempf.com/
4410 Camber cams
Can't find them on the site. Might be out of production. Call them. I have a pair but not crazy about letting them go as I only have one installed. You might not need them but they go under the lower spring mount bolt hole after you drill them out larger.
4410 Camber cams
Can't find them on the site. Might be out of production. Call them. I have a pair but not crazy about letting them go as I only have one installed. You might not need them but they go under the lower spring mount bolt hole after you drill them out larger.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 514
Likes: 27
Thanks for posting the pictures, I don't have my FSM with me and I thought I remembered such a setup.
Speaking of radius arms;
How difficult is replacing the rear pivot bushings?
Thanks,
R.
Speaking of radius arms;
How difficult is replacing the rear pivot bushings?
Thanks,
R.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 372
[QUOTE=dogdays;18164451
Speaking of radius arms;
How difficult is replacing the rear pivot bushings?
Thanks,
R.[/QUOTE]
Not particularly difficult. I've replaced the bushings on the back end of the radius arms on a '65 F250 and a '94 F150. I did not touch the rivets on either truck. Support the truck by it's frame on good stands or cribbing. Remove travel limiters and lower the I-beams until the springs can be removed. Then pull I-beams forward until the radius arms can be removed from their frame brackets.
In both cases I also replaced the bushings in the end of each of the I-beams. That was a little harder than the radius arm bushings. I used a drill and hole saw to cut the rubber and remove old bushings. Sawsall to cut and remove outer ring of bushings. And then smoothed the holes in the I-beams with a dremel. Pound in or press in the new bushings.
Speaking of radius arms;
How difficult is replacing the rear pivot bushings?
Thanks,
R.[/QUOTE]
Not particularly difficult. I've replaced the bushings on the back end of the radius arms on a '65 F250 and a '94 F150. I did not touch the rivets on either truck. Support the truck by it's frame on good stands or cribbing. Remove travel limiters and lower the I-beams until the springs can be removed. Then pull I-beams forward until the radius arms can be removed from their frame brackets.
In both cases I also replaced the bushings in the end of each of the I-beams. That was a little harder than the radius arm bushings. I used a drill and hole saw to cut the rubber and remove old bushings. Sawsall to cut and remove outer ring of bushings. And then smoothed the holes in the I-beams with a dremel. Pound in or press in the new bushings.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 3
From: clovis, CA
Do not remove or destroy the metal shells in th be radius arm. They are only available as a set pressed in already. Took mine to the machine show where they got th he rubber out and then I installed poly bushings instead. Use poly in the ends as well.
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