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33 (O,M) ALL – EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently – EVP EVR PFE
So, the Code # 33 (M) is indicating an intermittent issue related to the ERG Position Sensor (EVP).
Could be the sensor itself, or it could be an issue developing with the EGR Valve.
The Fault indicates that the EGR Valve is not closing all the time.
If this is the case, then you might have unmetered exhaust entering the intake during Idle or WOT periodically.
If your EGR Valve is old, I would replace it or block it off.
You can check your EVP sensor electrically.
It is difficult to analyze the potentiometer in the sensor for dead spots.
So it was the KOEO Memory Code ? Not the KOEO Self-Test Code ?
Right. It was a stored memory code. I'm gonna try this weekend to run a key on engine running test. In response to your other statement I'm gonna block the egr and jump the solenoid connector with a resistor.
FYI;
Engines are easier to diagnose over the internet when all the codes are listed, and in order of test.
KOEO - (O) Self-Test Codes =
KOEO - (C)(CM) Continuous Memory Codes =
KOER - (R) Self-Test Codes =
I'm gonna try this weekend to run a key on engine running test.
For clarification; Were the 82, 42, 33 Codes all from your KOEO Self-Test ?
"82 AIRB solenoid – Solenoids and Air Injection
42 (R) System rich – Fuel control
(M) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) – Fuel control
33 (O,M) ALL – EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently – EVP EVR PFE"
In response to your other statement I'm gonna block the egr and jump the solenoid connector with a resistor.
For Clarification;
The term “Block” used with an EGR-Valve usually refers to purchasing or fabricating a Plate with gaskets to insert between the EGR-Valve and the Intake. If none of the other EGR related components are modified or removed, you will not likely receive any codes.
The term “Delete” used with an EGR-Valve usually refers to removing the EGR-Valve and related components, i.e. Solenoid, EVP, vacuum lines, also Blocking the Intake and Exhaust line. “Deleting” will give you a few O, M &R codes.
So, installing a resistor is not necessary when a “Block” is applied. The solenoid, EVP and EGR-Valve will operate as normal, but no Exhaust gas will flow.
FYI;
Engines are easier to diagnose over the internet when all the codes are listed, and in order of test.
KOEO - (O) Self-Test Codes =
KOEO - (C)(CM) Continuous Memory Codes =
KOER - (R) Self-Test Codes =
Yes you are correct sorry about that. I got the obd1 code reader in the mail and was all excited lol. I was about five minutes in when the wife and kids were in desperate need of my presence. SMH. Ill go through the tests this weekend and see what all shows up.
[QUOTE=vjsimone;18182361]For clarification; Were the 82, 42, 33 Codes all from your KOEO Self-Test ?
yes. And just to clarify we are talking about the same test process. I turned the key on but did not start the engine. I then hooked up the code reader. First 42 came up then 82 then 33. Sorry I don't think I had them in order on the original post.
For Clarification;
The term “Block” used with an EGR-Valve usually refers to purchasing or fabricating a Plate with gaskets to insert between the EGR-Valve and the Intake. If none of the other EGR related components are modified or removed, you will not likely receive any codes.
The term “Delete” used with an EGR-Valve usually refers to removing the EGR-Valve and related components, i.e. Solenoid, EVP, vacuum lines, also Blocking the Intake and Exhaust line. “Deleting” will give you a few O, M &R codes.
So, installing a resistor is not necessary when a “Block” is applied. The solenoid, EVP and EGR-Valve will operate as normal, but no Exhaust gas will flow.
Ok .Ill block it for now to see if I get any improvement with the idle. Also thank you for your help and taking the time to answer my questions
Ok .Ill block it for now to see if I get any improvement with the idle.
I’m guessing the EGR-Valve is not closing all the way because it is old and carboned up, so, it is probably leaking and affecting the idle a bit.
When you take it off to block it, clean it up, open and close it manually. Cleaning it up a bit will help it for a while, but I would still slide a blocking plate in there.
If it stays stuck a bit open, or just stuck and won't open or close, you will always get a 33 Code, but you can ignore it once you have blocked it.
If it is stuck open a bit, then it is a vacuum leak and will affect the Fuel/Air mixture. (i.e. Lean/Rich)
Ref Code # 72 (R); MAP sensors can pay a lot of havoc on engines when they fail or are failing.
Electrical measurements can be made for this sensor.
I would replace the vacuum line from the sensor to the vacuum tree and clean both sides of the Electrical Connector first and re-test KOER.
If you decide to replace the MAP, use a motorcraft part and replace the vacuum line.
Eventually you will need to replace all those old vacuum lines.
Were you successful at performing the WOT Test ?
Last edited by vjsimone; Sep 8, 2018 at 12:16 AM.
Reason: Adding text
If you are using the 3145 Code Reader, less than a minute after the # of Cylinders are displayed (6 in your case), a Code 10 will appear, when the “10” appears, this is when you floor the accelerator.
The "10" is not displayed very long, so, you may be missing it while you are turning your steering wheel.
You could skip the power steering test once and watch for the WOT test "10" code to see if it displays.
This could be the reason for the code 72.
Last edited by vjsimone; Sep 8, 2018 at 11:16 AM.
Reason: Adding text
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