Depending on your engine harness it may be a Speed Density 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 HO harness or it could the Speed Density 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Then the FMS MAF kit will need to be sightly modified to run with the non HO kit. LexLuthr has done this successfully and runs a HO roller cam in his truck!

 

Here is a link to a thread where Tripndrag and I discussed the workings of the FMS MAF kit when running an HO cam. Good reading if you're interested in the conversion. You can also do a search for other posts, as there are numerous on this very subject. I noticed a big difference after the kit, and would never look back.

 

First off, hit man x. to clarify things a little, i haven't done the swap as of yet. i still need to perform the rebuild on the 302 first. also, the engine is out of a '93 f-150 and the harness came with it. does running the MAF require a different computer? i don't have one yet so that would not be a problem. lexluthr, what are the specs on the HO cam? thanks a million guys. i'll definately read that other article as soon as possible. i'm trying to get a sort of plan going for this engine build. $$i'm currrently in college and would like to be able to spread out the cost a little.$$ anyways, thanks again.

 

Ooooooh I thought you had the swap done already!

Your '93 motor should have the roller cam installed from the factory too.

FMS makes a MAF kit for the 87-93 5.0 w/ Manual transmissions too. Their MAF kit comes with the harness, computer, meter, and airbox lid. I wish I could have just picked up the harness as I could have pieced the kit together from there for way less.

Stock 5.0 cam - 266/276 .444/.444 w/ 1.6 rockers. 115.5LSA

If you run a HO 5.0 cam or any cam with the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order you will need to rewire the FMS kit according to the "LexLuthr" method. OR if you could find a 94-95 MAF engine harness that came from a 5 speed manual trans truck that may work out also.

What sort of rebuild are you going to do with the 302 you have? What is your budget on it?

 

sorry bout the mixup. i'm tryin to get a plan goin for the build. this MAF conversion sounds very interesting. i plan on a plan jane rebuild kit (pistons, rings, bearings, seals and gaskets), upgrade cam, stock heads (for now) and some little things like throttle body spacer and junk. not sure on ignition. want to install full length headers (obviously) and true duals (-cats). thats about it as far as dollars and cents go. if i had the $ i would stroke it and add a set of trick flow heads. they come later i guess. any suggestions for H.P. for the dollar would be much appreciated. thanks for the help guys. -Matt

 

If ya plan a plain rebuild, why not just get a used roller 5.0 motor with 75-100K mi on it? It will already have the better (slightly) cam it in and be a full roller.

I have seen them for $150-300 around here. Buy some heads....AFR-165's are better on a 302 that stays under 6000rpms than the TFS-TW heads. The TW ones are nice but for the same price the AFR's blow them away.

If you plan on rebuild or reconditioning the stock heads...don't it is a waste of cash. The $250-400 can be spend for rebuilt ported stockers, true GT-40 irons, and I have even seem GT-40X's for $500 a few times.

I'd run that mill until it breaks down (about 150-175K mi) then build up what you want...I don't really see the point of spending all the cash for a stock rebuilt bottom end if and when you decide to push it.

 

Sorry again man. i neglected to mention that i already bought a '93 5.0, out of a pickup. they replaced the engine because a ring either stuck or broke. i have yet to tear it apart to see if i need to bore it, but thats why i planned the stock bottom end rebuild. what years were the 5.0's roller assemblies? i would still probably cam it just for that little extra. i'm thinking about getting some GT40 heads too.


Please use Classifieds for Want Ads

 

That '93 I am almost certain is a roller block from trucks. Just pull the lower intake and if you have this big lifter hold down tray and the tie bars you have a roller equipped block. My block is ready for roller but doesn't have the spider tray assembly installed.

From 87+ Ford ran roller 302 blocks in the 'Stangs. From 91 or 92+ Ford ran roller 302 truck motors. I think the 351W's went roller in '94.

If it busted a ring, then I'd say it will need a bore.

The stock 5.0 'Stang roller cam is a nice grind from the factory and would make an easy 250-270hp with GT-40 heads and intake as well as exhaust mods.

 

I'll pull the intake off of the truck either next weekend or the weekend after. You talkin 'bout the stang cam from around that era? I was lookin at running an E303 grind cam from ford. Do you know anyone whos ever had one? I'm lookin at tryin to get a set of GT40 x's right now. someone has a set for sale. hope it works out!

 

Save your money from the FMS Alphabet cams...they are so low tech now. You can get a better idling cam and make about the same power for less. You can probably get a stock 5.0 roller cam for damn near, if not, for free. The B and E cams run a 110LSA which is waaaay to narrow for the stock EEC-IV to try to operate it. You will have all sorts of idle surge with it...the stock EEC-IV is good to about 112LSA. Also that low of an LSA = less idle vac so your brakes will not work too well. Yes this is from experience here.

If you are hell bent on a cam something like these would work well:

208/212 - 112 to 114lsa
212/218 - 112 to 114lsa
214/220 - 114lsa

Keep lift around .460-.490"

If you took that $150-200 for a cam... you can put that towards some heads.

You can run a so-so cam with great heads and make good power. You can run a great cam with junk heads and make crap power. The heads are where it is all at. The GT-40X are a decent out of the box head, will make way more power than the E7TE's you have now, and they can be massaged for more power...I'd say ported they can support a motor of about 350 cubes or less.

 

Wow! Tahnks for all the input. So if my motor is a factory roller, i'm better off leaving it and going for the heads? will these alone make the power or should i try and find a matching intake? heads are pushing the budget a little, but if i can find a good price somewhere that is probably what i'll do. What about a 212/218 - 112 to 114lsa cam AND the heads? even more power eh.

 

If you are factory roller, I'd stick in a stock 5.0 Mustang cam from a 87-95. They are all about the same specs. That is a decent stock grind and would pick up about 15hp over the stock '93 truck cam.

The stock 302 intake flows pretty damn good, the lower is what Holley Systemax II is based off of...so it must do something correct. I'd keep it but, the Edelbrock will make more as its ports are a bit smaller as it will up the intake velocity. The stock TB is just over 49mm and just under 50mm...I measured mine. With a larger cam and heads a twin 56mm could be beneficial but not until you max out what you are running.

I have seen $400-600 sets of GT-40 irons (real, not P) with the Crane factory Cobra 1.7:1 rockers too. Ebay is a haven for stuff like that but local people are even better.

 

Any idea what the GT40x heads would pick up for power? seen a few serta on e-bay but i'm going to keep looking. thank you for all your time and knowledge hitmanx. i have learnt a lot in the last few days. i'll keep writing.

 

Really depends on if you keep them stock or do some slight porting to them also depends on cam profiles.

I'd say easily 25-40rwhp depending on what else you have done. 25 to the wheels is around 30 at the flywheel factoring in a 25% drivetrain loss.

With supporting mods like K&N cone, cam, roller rockers, 1-1/2" primary headers, full exhaust sytem, and a good tune the power gains will be even larger.

 

I put a 1994 roller 5.0 HO from a Mustang in my 63 Mercury last winter. Heres what I did with it: Stock HO camshaft, stock short block, 9:1 compression, ceramic coated hooker super comp headers, ported the E7 heads on the exhaust side only (gasket matched), 1.7 roller rockers, 600 Holley and weiand action plus intake, MSD ignition and a 2.5 inch dual exhaust with dynomax race bullets. There are a few other small items too. Anyhow, my 5.0 HO in stock trim was factory rated at 215 flywheel HP. With all my speed parts and tuning it dyno'd at 207.7 rear wheel HP and 286.5ft/lbs of torque at the wheels, that was through a C4 automatic transmission. According to the dyno owner that would give me around 270-280HP at the flywheel, not too bad for a stock cam.

With some early 351W heads and more compression 300HP would be easy to make. Don't change your cam, go for better heads, better intakes and etc, you will get civil streetablilty, a smooth idle for cruising and still make good HP. MY old Merc is a sleeper, and has stunned a few local 5.0's and camaro's when challenged. I took it to the strip 3 weeks ago and broke the rear end on the very first pass, but I did manage to run a 14.42 @ 95.33mph. It was the very 1st pass down the 1/4 for my car so I know with tuning and driving changes I can drop the ET a few 10th's.