Engine jack location
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 139
From: tucson
Engine jack location
I need to replace the two rear engine mounts on my '64 that now has a 390 with a 4 speed. There are mounts on each side of the bell housing.
Where is the best location to place a jack, to jack up the engine enough to slip in the new mounts? The truck has a cross member with perches for the front mounts.
Thankis.
John
Where is the best location to place a jack, to jack up the engine enough to slip in the new mounts? The truck has a cross member with perches for the front mounts.
Thankis.
John
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 6
From: Great White North
Never put a floor jack under an engine for any reason is my answer. I agree with the tranny and also suggest you could use an engine hoist attached to the rear of the intake to help support it
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 374
Without seeing your setup, I'll say one jack under the tranny and one under the engine's pulley (front of crank) to help balance the motor. Use wood blocks between jack and tranny and pulley to prevent damage.
In your situation, I think I'd prefer an engine picker and lift it from above.
In your situation, I think I'd prefer an engine picker and lift it from above.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 6
From: Great White North
Without seeing your setup, I'll say one jack under the tranny and one under the engine's pulley (front of crank) to help balance the motor. Use wood blocks between jack and tranny and pulley to prevent damage.
In your situation, I think I'd prefer an engine picker and lift it from above.
In your situation, I think I'd prefer an engine picker and lift it from above.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
What I do on these front and rear mount systems is pull the oil pan and then use my transmission jack to support and lift the block on the surfaces that the oil pan attaches to along the long sides of the cavity. The block is plenty strong and you are lifting it by the block, not the pan or crankshaft. But, my trucks with front and back mounting are 4x4 so I can pull the oil pan quite easily. Your mileage may vary.
Chad
Chad
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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You might be right; I won't bet my life either way. Crank pulley is the lift point recommended by my 1970 shop manual for lifting the engine so that the oil pan can be removed on a 2wd with an Fe engine. I've lifted there to replace motor mounts and remove oil pans on a couple FE's as well as replace motor mounts on an inline 6.
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Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
It's very tough sometimes to get a good contact point on the crankshaft pulley on the front engine mounted (front and rear) systems since the front mount is smack dab in the way. And if you just want to replace the rear mounts then there is no reason to undo or lift the front. I've removed the bellhousing and rear mounts completely and cleaned up the support member under the bellhousing without touching the front mount at all. And no transmission installed at the time so couldn't jack it under that- which should be fine, too, BTW.
Chad
Chad
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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It's very tough sometimes to get a good contact point on the crankshaft pulley on the front engine mounted (front and rear) systems since the front mount is smack dab in the way. And if you just want to replace the rear mounts then there is no reason to undo or lift the front. I've removed the bellhousing and rear mounts completely and cleaned up the support member under the bellhousing without touching the front mount at all. And no transmission installed at the time so couldn't jack it under that- which should be fine, too, BTW.
Chad
Chad
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
Not necessarily 4wd, but 1964 and older 2wd also used the front and rear mounts like the 1965 F100/250 4wd and F350 - and 1966 F250 4wd and F350. I assume since he said two rear engine mounts that his 390 is mounted front and back.
Chad
Chad
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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To be on the safe and easier side, I still think I'd lift it from above. Remove the carb but leave the 4 studs in the intake. Attach a lift plate. Careful to not lift too high and jam the valve covers into the firewall.
If the oil pan or rear main seal is leaking and the pan needs to be remove anyway, then the block would be a good jack point.
Edit: Might as well replace your engine mounts at the same time as the bell housing mounts.
I'm curious, what tranny do you have?
If the oil pan or rear main seal is leaking and the pan needs to be remove anyway, then the block would be a good jack point.
Edit: Might as well replace your engine mounts at the same time as the bell housing mounts.
I'm curious, what tranny do you have?
