Please help! Need help identifing a frame.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2018
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Please help! Need help identifing a frame.
This is my first post, this is my first ford truck actually, let's just say I finally converted from the dark side...... anyhow, I have a 77 F-150 Ranger XLT. I bought the truck, and the guy had a second frame he gave me, gentleman said it was a 75 frame however I am not so sure. Trying to decide weather to use the other frame which has for the most part been restored already, or to restore the somewhat rotted frame the truck currently sits on.
There are a few minor differances between the two frames the most significant differances I can see are that the coil towers for the front have a stud welded on top for the front shock mount where as the 77 frame has a separate shock tower behind the coil tower.
Also the "75" frame has drum brakes up front and a hydrolic steering set up....
one more thing i noticed was that on the "75" frame most everything is riveted together where as the current frame the spring hangers and shock mounts etc.. are all bolted.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know pictures will help and I will try and get some tomorrow.
There are a few minor differances between the two frames the most significant differances I can see are that the coil towers for the front have a stud welded on top for the front shock mount where as the 77 frame has a separate shock tower behind the coil tower.
Also the "75" frame has drum brakes up front and a hydrolic steering set up....
one more thing i noticed was that on the "75" frame most everything is riveted together where as the current frame the spring hangers and shock mounts etc.. are all bolted.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know pictures will help and I will try and get some tomorrow.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,240
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I can't say for certain and I'm sure more knowledgeable people will be along soon but my guess is all the things that are bolted on the frame and riveted on the other should all be riveted and were replaced/upgraded and the PO used bolts as most people do when they have to cut out the rivets. Again I could be wrong but that's my .02
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,218
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From: Central Florida
Look for the VIN on each frame then decode them. This will tell you what the frames were for and whether they are likely compatible with one another. Agree with fordguy2100 re bolts in place of rivets. Assuming compatibility with cab, bed, etc. it sounds like this is the frame you want to use.
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Junior User
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Look for the VIN on each frame then decode them. This will tell you what the frames were for and whether they are likely compatible with one another. Agree with fordguy2100 re bolts in place of rivets. Assuming compatibility with cab, bed, etc. it sounds like this is the frame you want to use.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 325
From: Central Florida
It will be on the top frame rail of the passenger side in two places. Right under where the alternator on a V8 would be and the other right under the passenger's butt. Vigorous wire brushing should reveal them.
Find the VIN decoder under Tools in the black menu bar for this site.
Find the VIN decoder under Tools in the black menu bar for this site.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,240
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Thank you guys for all the help. I will be out looking for the VIN tomorrow, I'll advise on what I find!
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Lead Driver
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From: San Jose, CA
And I don't know about all years and all models, but I would use caution when trying to uncover a buried frame VIN. They're so shallow sometimes that getting too aggressive with the sandpaper or scraper or wire wheel might rub it off!
Paul
Paul
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Junior User
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yeah so I was doing some looking around this morning and I fear whoever restored this extra frame I have might have grinded the vin off mistakenly.... i did find a few numbers along with what looks like a star, so I'm going to try and carefully get the paint off so i can read what's left.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 991
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From: Dallas, OR
Yup, you're in the right area. The star is the beginning of the VIN. My wife's 65 was the same way- first few digits were pretty solid, but the last 4 or 5 were REALLY hard to read. I had an advantage in that I was trying to compare it to a known VIN off the title. Yours will be more of a challenge. As has already been said, work slow or you could grind it off completely.
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Junior User
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Yup, you're in the right area. The star is the beginning of the VIN. My wife's 65 was the same way- first few digits were pretty solid, but the last 4 or 5 were REALLY hard to read. I had an advantage in that I was trying to compare it to a known VIN off the title. Yours will be more of a challenge. As has already been said, work slow or you could grind it off completely.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,609
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From: San Jose, CA
Probably the same number as are in your other, registered truck.
My '79 still gives the DMV fits because the actual string of numbers at the end of the VIN are only 4 digits long. The whole thing is only 11 digits long, letters and numbers combined.
Paul
My '79 still gives the DMV fits because the actual string of numbers at the end of the VIN are only 4 digits long. The whole thing is only 11 digits long, letters and numbers combined.
Paul
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 991
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From: Dallas, OR
Yes, 11 digits total. Just to expand on what Paul wrote- 73-77 used 1 letter and then 5 numbers. 78 & 79 used 2 letters and 4 numbers If your frame really is a 1975, the letter should be a V, W, or X.