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Thermostat gone wrong... TIPS

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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 10:54 AM
  #1  
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Thermostat gone wrong... TIPS

You can't make this up.

Buddy calls and says "Hey man, it's 100*F I have no Shade. Can I use your Garage to change my thermostat? Sure, it's only 93*F in here. And, so, it begins....

Removed two of the three Thermostat housing bolts. Broke the third off. Not a big deal, here, use this Cordless Drill with a 1/16" Bit and take your time, drill all the way through. Then, move up a 1/16" until it's open and you can tap it.... like 5/16".

Two minutes in I hear "XXXX!". Broke the 1/16" Bit off. Okay, don't panic..... Well, better Panic, he said "XXXX!" now I need a new water pump..........Better yet, get down. I got this..... Long and Short..... Torch, fill with Aluminum Rod, Drill, Tap, Install, Vacuum Fill Cooling System and Check for Leaks at 20 psig for 30 minutes -

Next Question,"Should I be using a 190*F or 203*F Thermostat - Get out! - In my Old Age - People are driving me Crazy - Hey I don't have far to go!

One Hour Job turns into Four Hours in the Hottest time of the Year! OMG! I know why I don't do this anymore.

Here is a Tip: If you're going to own your 7.3L for any amount of time, FOLLOW THIS!
1. Use new Bolts.
2. Use new Housing Cover every few years.
3. Use Thread Chasers to clean the Housing,
4. Add some Anti Seize.

It's NOT that Hard!

Ps. You should be changing Caps and Thermostats every three to five years or 30,000 Miles. No, it's not in a Manual. It's in Experience. Hard earned experience.

I'm done!

 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 11:19 AM
  #2  
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I had a similar experience when I replaced the original thermostat housing on my 2000. I did it in March and it was pretty cool weather here in the Northeast luckily. The front two bolts snapped (I should have USED SOME HEAT). I then decided to break out the torch and heat around the rear bolt and with my fingers crossed it came out without a hitch. Had to drill and tap them of course. Lesson learned though, I should have used heat all along on the front two bolts and I wouldn't of been hours into the job.

I also installed the Stainless Thermostat Housing Flange Reinforcing Ring (found on Ebay) to help keep strengthen the housing flange. And thankfully I haven't had any leaks since.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 11:19 AM
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I hear ya, and it's only getting worse.
My old man always said, "Son, there's two ways to do something, right or again"! He had a few other sayings too there's no such thing as cheap, there's no such thing as a shortcut.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 01:39 PM
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I have noticed that lately I have been having less and less patience with stupidity and stupid people, not sure what is going on, just did similar work on my mustang, two coolant hoses leading to new rubber gasket, thermostat, and fluid and clamps (all done by choice)
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 02:20 PM
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"My old man always said, "Son, there's two ways to do something, right or again"! He had a few other sayings too there's no such thing as cheap, there's no such thing as a shortcut."
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __
I had to learn this lesson the hard way. After many years of "cheap" I finally realized cheap is anything but cheap. Do it ONCE the right way no matter the cost.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 02:50 PM
  #6  
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I attempted to change mine recently, with torch heat and 3 days of penetrating oil, and one of the incompetently-small 8mm hex head bolts rounded off, even though I was using a 6 point socket. I just left it, and re-tightened the other 2 bolts. I'll save it for another day. These tiny-head bolts are as dumb as the tiny u-joint retaining bolts....
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 03:17 PM
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I guess that I was really lucky when I changed mine out, no issues at all. Replaced with billet housing and thermostat from Clay and have never looked back.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 03:55 PM
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Great advice I try to use new bolts almost every time when working on the engine especially those 3 110mm ones (for the next water pump change around 400k in the future lol) Had one go out on me once =1 new cylinder head for the outboard later running strong again.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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The bolt heads are small to indicate easy does it on the torque! Every time I do mine I have to look up the torque, 110 inch lbs if I recall. I change the bolts every few years and clean and paint the housing. Tried the billet, didn't like it went back to the stamped steel which seals with no silicone. I don't like silicone on an engine with an oil cooler. Call me **** but I change my thermostat twice a year....195 for summer and 203 for winter. Needless to say I've gotten good at it.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2018 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bigb56
The bolt heads are small to indicate easy does it on the torque! Every time I do mine I have to look up the torque, 110 inch lbs if I recall. I change the bolts every few years and clean and paint the housing. Tried the billet, didn't like it went back to the stamped steel which seals with no silicone. I don't like silicone on an engine with an oil cooler. Call me **** but I change my thermostat twice a year....195 for summer and 203 for winter. Needless to say I've gotten good at it.
‘You are ****…
 
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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 08:13 AM
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Thermostat housing ring fix from Strictly Diesel...DONE. I have done it on all of my 7.3s. I almost consider it a requirement. I have been there done that with breaking a bolt off in that housing. It was the POs lack of maintenance that took me on that fun journey.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 01:19 PM
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Yeah, steel bolts and aluminum housings don't play well with one another.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Don't forget to use some scotch bright on the sealing surfaces, particularly the pump side.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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^^^^ What he said, but I recommend using the blue scotch bright. I learned the hard way with the green stuff getting some tree sap off of my windshield. It cuts into glass really easy.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2018 | 10:06 PM
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You know it's go time when the torch comes out Glad to hear you got it fixed!
 
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