Maybe that's the model I was upgraded to recently. I do know it was physically larger and I had to move my mounting brackets because of it. They told me this new model motor was much more reliable and they had like a less than 1 percent failure rate on it. Hopefully they are right because I don't want another failure. I was so worried about another failure, that I bought a whole spare pump just in case and now that one is not working properly. I'm hoping to send that one back for them to fix for me.

 

Thanks TIm!

Ok so the latest......and I want to say that the pure flow tech desk leaves a bit to be desired in the manner that they make me feel like I am bugging them and their answers are very CURT and no tact. Not to mention the first tech said 10K on filters NO MORE!!!!!, the second tech said the same thing and the email tech answered with 15-20k?!?!!?!?!?!?! WTF PUREFLOW???? This is what ticks me off

I removed the side plate and no issues but I removed the gears (used a magnet, the center rotor is notched on the shaft), according to the second tech (who right away defaulted to "you have a restriction sir in your inlet) it is safe to blow out the cavity where the gears sit.....gently of course. I brake kleened the gears, the cover and lightly oiled the cover needle bearing and the geo rotors. Installed and I'll have to monitor to the relay and wiring in the next few months.

 

I couple of years ago I had a motor starting to fail. I noticed my fuel pressure dropping slowly. On my drive home from about 100 miles out, my fuel pressure was dropping and dropping. I made it home but was hoping I didn't damage injectors because fuel pressure had dropped all the way down to 25psi. I found the motor was bad and drawing so much more amperage that it melted the fuse holder and looked real bad. I ended up replacing the fuse holder with a much heavier duty one and replaced the motor to fix the problem. Wondering if the guage of the wire is not large enough now as well.

 

 

I drove the truck and she is back to normal.


I touched the new relay and can hold it on the sides but the top is much warmer than the rest of it. At this point I am unsure what is normal in regards to relay temp

I am going to redo the wiring in a much heavier gauge and possibly consider grounding the pump at the frame instead of the long lead to the battery

 

 

That makes sense so what do you recommend I do next....change all the wiring to heavier gauge?

 

Tim has done an install so he might have the best suggestions, I'm winging it.

On the relay, is there any indication of the amperage or the manufacturer?

I looked at the instruction sheet and there's not much there. I can't believe the preferred method is to connect to the alternator. And the second to the battery leaves a little to be desired. According to the instructions I looked at the fuse is a 20a fuse?

 

Yes the pigtail (+) to the relay is fused with a 20 amp.

The keyed (+) from the panel in the truck is fused with a 2 amp and a 10 amp in a 2 fuse holder into one spot....makes no sense to me but that is the way they have it

The relay is a standard 5 prong (only 4 used) 30 A relay with a larger than normal housing to accommodate their weather proof male plug

 

I went the shortest most direct path from the drivers battery positive to the pump with something like a #2 wire. It was from a Minn Kota 55 pound thrust 12V trolling motor. I got a 45A 4 prong relay from Radio Shack and mounted it less than a foot from the battery to an existing bracket on the fender. I tapped into and used the existing OEM fuel pump feed wires to trigger the pump relay because they were very close to the relay and the pump would easily time out just like the OEM pump. I grounded the pump to the frame rail of the truck. I also have additional grounds, per Jack's recommendations, from the frame and motor to the drivers side battery. Also, when I recently replaced my OEM battery positive, I used the old alternator to battery hot wire, with fusible links, to go to from the alternator lug to the drivers side battery. It's not all pretty, but it works.

I'll try to get some pictures, but my phone sucks--LOL.

 

 

To do it proper, despite what the fuse or relay supplied is, someone would have to use an ammeter to check the current being used.

Worse case, using a 20a value and 12ft of wire from the underwood relay location to the motor you can select from this chart what voltage drop you are willing to have. A 1% value is not bad, so 8ga positive lead. Again if the current is only 10a, it can be way smaller and I can re-enter numbers in the chart.



On the negative side, as Tim has done using the frame rail as the conduit is what Ford intended for the trailer connections, so its all set up to just connect the negative side to the frame by the AirDog. The wiring needed for that at 20a, a 16ga or 14ga would be plenty as the longer the wire the more resistance. This is only 24".




Tim installed a relay for 40a, which provides more robust contacts, which unless the coil of your relay was defective is where the problem was. Available everywhere, but getting the Ford relays like for the trailer or FICM use today usually are the best quality. I used to get Radio shack relays all the time, but whats at some stores today are not the best quality. that could be what AirDog is using.


Relay contact issue.



Relay connection issue.

 

All fantastic ideas....especially the "time out". I gotta admit I don't like having to get on my back to disconnect the pump in between tune loads. I am going to revamp the wiring for sure!

Jack and Tim, Once I redo the wiring, I was planning on going with a heavy duty relay....would you concur?

Thanks for taking the time to help! (can't add rep points.....AGAIN)

 

 

Thank you as well Tim and Jack. I am going to also modify my wiring as well. Lately I've seen more fuel pressure fluctuation and am wondering if it's possibly related to not enough current flow. If nothing else I know it will not be the cause of my issue. Thanks again.