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(X#1) 2000 V-10 119,000 miles: about 6 Months ago went to start it up & NO GO. Turning over like a jet, BUT not the slightest indication of firing !! 15 seconds later fired right up. Not another hick up till last week did it twice. The 2nd time, exact same scenario BUT the 3rd time it would not start for almost 30+ Minutes. Has fired right up ever sense (40+ times). I have not been able to do any diagnoses what so ever. I have a fuel pump on order JUST to have one if nothing else.
POLE: What would you guess 1st ?? (1) fuel pump (2) CPS or #(3) CPK ???
I will announce the winner A.S.A.P.
(X#2) 2000 V-10 185,000 miles : Last Summer once the engine is at running temperature ( AND hot outside I believe) (( I don't use this truck a lot currently)) the ignition goes dead (just like you pulled the battery). The problem has been VERY consistent AND HAS ALWAYS started right up if cold ??? The free fix is easy: Turn key on, jump the block on the fender & off I go. NOT a big deal the way I'm using the truck BUT just curious ifin any one has a thought ???
#1 - When it won't start, did you try pushing on the go-pedal slightly, say 1/2 to 1" down? If so, and it still didn't start, whack the gas tank with a 2x4 (carefully, it's plastic). If it then starts right up, it's the fuel pump. Change the fuel pump relay with the fuel pump. The relay can start to have a resistance inside, and the new fuel pump will overheat and die again. Sometimes, it seems the fuel pump relay going bad causes the fuel pump to overheat and go bad in the first place.
#2 - When you say "ignition does dead" - when you turn the key to on, I assume all the lights in the dash come on and it's just that the starter solenoid doesn't engage. Instead of jumping the two BIG terminals, try jumping the small terminal to the BIG terminal that goes back to the battery. If it doesn't crank, the solenoid itself is bad. Because of underhood heat, a bad connection in the solenoid will open up because the entire thing expands because of the heat and the connection opens up.
Krewat: Thanks for the fresh ideas.
( #1) When in no start mood I actually revert into carburetor in-stink & pump it like there is no tomorrow, because it just feels like there is no fuel ( I still have a few carbed trucks around). It did not help the 3rd time it occurred & did not have the time to try & hear the pump working or NOT. I just picked up a CPS for $10 so that's a no brainier when it gets here . It's an EX so can't do a lot to the tank but drop it . Do you know where the relay is on the X ?? AND THANKS for that advise, Will Do when the time comes.
(#2) "I assume all the lights in the dash come on and it's just that the starter solenoid doesn't engage." Correct, not even a click. "a bad connection in the solenoid" The fender mounted solenoid ?? My brain goes directly to the starter solenoid, so when it starts by jumping the 2 Lg. terminals I ruled it out immediately.
I have no idea where the fuel pump relay is on an X
Starter solenoid (really a huge relay) - the picture is probably is not exact, but you get the idea.
Jump the small terminal to the + side of the battery and see if it cranks. If it doesn't crank, the solenoid is bad. If it DOES crank, something upstream from there has a bad connection. I believe there is another relay upstream from there.
I believe the fuel pump relay on the X is behind the radio in the dash. Pull the radio and look down and to the left inside the hole. There are a couple of relays including the turn signal flasher and fuel pump.
X#1 - Crank and cam sensors are easy to replace and not that expensive. I just replaced mine as a preventative measure when I had everything torn apart for exhaust studs.. On mine the crank sensor is tucked up under the A/C compressor. It doesn't need to be disconnected, but it needs to be moved to get at the cranks sensor. The cam sensor is mounted high on the front cover and reads the drivers side cam sprocket
I'm not sure what the fuel pump stradigy is when starting.. i.e. the pump runs for about 3 seconds, then stops ??? If this is correct, I'd say the fuel pump is pressurizing the system if it will start 15 seconds later... A couple ways to verify is when it wont start, give it a blast of starting fluid, or, check fuel pressure, I stick something in the fuel injection test shrader valve, if it squirts, I probably have pressure.
I actually revert into carburetor in-stink & pump it like there is no tomorrow,
That does nothing useful on a fuel-injected engine.
I answered your post in your other thread regarding the correct location of the fuel pump relay. Next time, do NOT post multiple threads for ongoing related issues.
My brain goes directly to the starter solenoid, so when it starts by jumping the 2 Lg. terminals I ruled it out immediately.
You should not have. The relay (it's NOT a solenoid) has to get its input signal on the small wire in order to operate. If you jumper the small terminal to the large on that goes to the battery and it cranks, then the relay is good and your "no crank" issue is due to something "upstream" from the relay. Wiring, fuse(s), DTR switch, and ignition switch are all part of that circuit. If you have an aftermarket security system, it may have added a starter interrupt as an anti-theft measure.
I believe when you hold the throttle to the floor it goes into a "Clear Flood Mode" and shuts off the fuel injectors.
That is correct, However, pumping it like an old carburetor system is pointless, it does nothing, useful or otherwise. The only other time that applying a little pedal is possibly productive is if it's suspected that the IAC is stuck closed.
UPDATE Truck #1 : After I posted this issue, I swapped relays with the fuel pump & the rear wiper (I think) and not had a lick of trouble till today !! So I was in a place I could run a few things down because it has not started in the last hour.
1) fuel pump comes on & primes the rails
2) no reaction to a squirt or two of starting fluid
3) valve on rail gives a healthy shot of gas when deppressed
4) popped in the new CPS I've been carrying around
5) depressed the go pedal 1/2 to 1" while cranking STILL NO JOY
RECAP: 2000 V-10 X that will not start unless it wants to !! Only done this 5 times & the last 2 times it has taken a long time to get it started, SO LONG that I have not done it this time yet
Last edited by harley4jcs; Sep 29, 2018 at 05:12 PM.
Reason: Forgot #5
Do you have +12 volts at the COP and injectors when this happens?
Connect a volt meter (not a test light*) between one of the wires on the COP/injector connector and ground, with the key "ON". Forget which color, but try both. If you have no voltage, COPs and injectors won't fire.
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* Not a test light, because it will ground the PCM's COP/injector output, and that might not be a good idea when it's floating. In theory, it's not a big deal, because the PCM isn't doing anything at this point, but always best to stay on the safe side.
After you try starting and it fails, WITHOUT turning the key back to off (leave in the run position), hook up a code reader. If it is a known working code reader and it pops up with a communication error, then you have a problem with your PCM.
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