It's nice to see the updates. Maybe it's just me and my penchant for following crew cab builds, but the forum seems to have been less active of late with build thread activity. I know I haven't had too much to say on my thread recently other than my first FiTech installation attempt.

Keep making progress and posting it up. I find it encouraging, so thank you!

 

Technically, you should knock the scale off, degrease it, metal prep it, then paint it. Since I'm not doing a frame off, I'm just descaling it with a wire wheel, sandblasting, or brush, depending on the area. Then just por15 it. Not as good I know, but working underneath sucks and what I'm doing is definitely better than nothing.

 

I did manage to get to a salvage yard today and picked up some super duty front springs and a sliding rear window and gasket out of mid 80s truck. Just throwing money at it I guess!

 

Knowing that people follow the progress actually helps keep me motivated also, so it's a win win. I'm to stubborn to quit, so I'm digging my heels in and going to finish it no matter what.

 

Well.... the reason I ask was I am about to do the same to my truck. There is a heavy scale of rust on the frame and underneath so, Yep, I think I might get a cup brush and put it on my angle grinder to knock the scale off.
I have always done a "body off" restoration in the past, so this is my first vehicle to do while I drive it.

Thanks for your reply.... I ask because I like the way your frame looks so I want to get that look for mine.

Mike

 

Air needler also an option.

 

Good point..... That should get into some closer areas real well.
Thanks!
Mike

 

Don't be afraid to do very small portions at a time when it comes to the cup brush.

If you do end up cleaning a large part of the frame all at once, be prepared for the aftermath.... a giant cloud of rusty dust in your work space.

I'm still finding areas that have a layer of brown dust on them in the garage... 2 years later... lol

 

LOL.... Yep, I recon that is right..... Thanks for that heads-up!
I probably will be doing small portions at the time (when I get a few minutes to get out there). There is a LOT of frame and under-body to do.

Mike

 

I've got one of the cheap gravity feed sandblasters that's working good for getting a lot of it. It makes a mess, but it's a lot nicer getting into cramped areas. I wouldn't want to do a large area with it, but it's fine on the frame, small brackets and parts.

 

When I got my Scab, it was running really warm. I flushed it with the hose a couple times, still ran to warm. It was springtime, so I put (I think) 2 gal of white distilled vinegar (to break down rust & gunk) in & filled with water. I started it & let it warm up once a week for a few months as I could allow it to set.
That first flush after that was disgusting, but after a couple good flushes and a new thermostat it's right on the o in normal. Heater works great aside from the cable being broken but that's a fix for later.

Some people might not agree with the vinegar method but it worked for me & I dont have any leaks so my freeze plugs must've been ok....

 

​​​​​​The trouble I have is I want to have it all flushed out before I put the new stuff on. I'd hate hate to plug up a new aluminum radiator! I've got to ponder my options for a bit.

 

Great build nzirbel. I'm following you. Can I ask what an air needler is?

 

It's an air powered tool with steel needles on the end that act like a chisel taking rust off. It's kind of a lousy description, YouTube is probably better, see them in action.

 

It's basically a tattoo gun, but with multiple needles that come down at different rates/times. Think of a tattoo gun that has a dozen needles that move up/down at a similar rate/frequency to how our motors' pistons move up and down. Each needle goes up/down at a different time, but does so quite rapidly.