When I took my intake off to do an EGR delete on my 2012, I noticed the bearings in my stock GT32 SST turbo were bad (82k miles). I couldn't spin it with one finger, and it made a squeaking noise occasionally. I decided to install a GT37 junkyard turbo from a 2017. I figured I'd do a quick write up of the process. There are plenty of youtube videos about how to remove the stock turbo, so this will be focused on installing the new one.

There are two setups for the GT37. 2015 to 1/31/2016 and 2/01/2016+. I'm not sure what the difference is between the actual turbo's is, but they have different part #'s - probably someone here can chime in with that answer. I see that the earlier model has a vacuum actuator in the parts diagram but not the later. I will detail below what the accessory differences are. My parts list is for using a 2017 turbo - I will note the differences I know of but do your research if going with a pre-1/31/2016 to make sure I haven't missed anything.

I bought my junkyard turbo for $825 shipped with 32k mi on it. The remaining parts were about $660 shipped from the Ford dealer (Sunrise Ford in Fontana, CA was very helpful and had the best pricing). So all in under $1500.

HC3Z-6K682-A - Turbo (obviously not needed if you buy from a junkyard)
HC3Z-6N639-A - Pedestal (probably not needed if you buy from the junkyard - this normally comes with it) (Use FC3Z-6N639-A for pre-1/31/2016)
FC3Z-9G478-A - Heat Shield (probably not needed if you buy from the junkyard - this normally comes with it)
W716090 S437 QTY3 - Bolts for Heat Shield (probably not needed if you buy from the junkyard - this normally comes with it)
FC3Z-9T514-A - Gasket kit, hardware and v-band clamps for pre-1/31/2016 (still cost effective to buy this for 2/01/2016+, you just need a different pedestal gasket - next line)
HC3Z-6587-A - pedestal gasket (2/01/2016+)
FC3Z-9U469-B - Coolant tube
W716088 S900 - Bolt for coolant tube
HC3Z-6C683-A - Oil filter (2/01/2016+)
FC3Z-9B613-A - intake boot
FC3Z-9424-A - lower intake manifold
FC3Z-9G437-C - Left up-pipe
HC3Z-9G437-A - Right up-pipe
FC3Z-9A462-A - exhaust manifold heat shield
FC3Z-9430-B - right exhaust manifold
FC3Z-9448-A - exhaust manifold gasket
FC3Z-6N646-C - upper down pipe
FC3Z-6N646-A - lower down pipe
FC3Z-9F459-A - EGR Tube
W716425 S900 QTY3 - manifold to up-pipe studs
W715713 S431 QTY8 - exhaust manifold studs, short (only if yours are bad)
W701706 S430 - exhaust manifold nuts (only if yours are bad - FSM does say to replace)

If you're using a pre-1/31/2016, you will also need an oil tube FC3Z-6B689-B. The 2/1/16+ moved this oil line internal to the pedestal, hence the different pedestal and gasket part #'s.

Step 1:
Remove turbo.


Here are the two turbos side by side:


Note that my local dealer sold me 6 long and 2 short manifold studs, which should have been the other way around. I had to cut four long ones shorter for the heat shield to fit. The rear most studs are supposed to be long, although 8 all short would work just as well. I have no idea why two are long. 2012 had 8 short.

You will need to cut and plug weld this bung on the right up-pipe:




The stock electrical connector on the turbo solenoid is a pain to unhook and very easy to break. Now is a good time to upgrade to Alliant Power Part # AP0068 if you want:

 

Since my pedestal came installed from the junkyard, I didn't need to do this but did anyways which is to replace the pedestal gasket. The kit listed above will include these new torque to yield bolts also. I didn't realize until right now that the 2012 only has two bolts and the 2017 has three. Hopefully the torque spec is the same, because I torqued per the 2012 manual:



I recommend assembling the upper and lower down pipe on the floor with a hammer. Don't tighten the Torca clamp at this time.


Finally you can set the turbo place. I would go in this order:
1. Install left up-pipe finger tight - make sure it still wiggles
2. Do not install right exhaust manifold to up-pipe studs.
3. Do not install right up-pipe.
4. Place turbo onto block (don't forget the gasket). Get the turbo mounting bolts finger tight (make sure it still wiggles).
5. Install down-pipe. Get the bracket that bolts to the bellhousing loosely installed, then get the band clamp seated but not torqued down.
6. Install right up-pipe, finger tight.
7. Torque turbo base (again this spec is from 2012, hopefully it's the same):

8. Tighten all band clamps and nuts to manifold
9. Tighten downpipe bracket to bellhousing.
10. Bolt downpipe to exhaust and then tighten the Torca clamp.

Now you should look like this:


I couldn't get this bracket on this new tube to mount up so I'm using the new tube free-floating with no bracket.


Since this turbo has no vacuum actuator, you can remove that vacuum line that went to the stock turbo and cap the fitting it leads to here (above the alternator):


And finally, done and it runs great!

 

Excellent write-up and a modification I plan on doing to mine as well. Question though. You didn't mention much about how the air delivery attaches to the new turbo, and you are using an aftermarket cold air kit. I would like to remain as stock looking as possible, is it possible to do that? Obviously the intake side of the turbo is larger, so?

Thanks!

 

Thanks! The parts list includes a new lower intake manifold and hose adapter to the turbo. This all bolts right into the same block holes as the original lower intake. The air filter side of the lower intake is identical, so whatever air filter setup you have currently will bolt right up. I am not sure, however, if they changed the air filter assembly in 2015+ for more air flow or something like that, you'd have to look into that.

 

Awesome thread! While I don't anticipate needing this information, I do appreciate all of the hard work it took to put it together for everyone else who may need it! Rep Points!

 

For 2017 model year trucks, they did change the air filter assembly. It is no longer rectangular but round. Here's a shot of mine. What's curious are your dates. Model year 2011-2014 trucks have the same turbo with the crappy ceramic bearings that fail. Model year 2015-2016 use the larger turbo and produce more power and torque. Model year 2017 trucks produce the same horsepower but 65lb-ft more torque. I would think the turbo is slightly different, but maybe that torque came from other sources. Model year 2018+ trucks have +10HP and +10lb-ft over 2017 trucks. Anyway, here's the 2017 air cleaner in mine:

 

I got the dates from car-part.com. IDK where they got their data from though...