Firewall VIN plate
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 306
Likes: 20
From: Greeneville TN
Firewall VIN plate
In the process of preparing the Swiss cheese firewall for hole filling and smoothing I need to think about the VIN plate on the firewall. Initially thought about removing it then refitting after paint but it is rivet/welded on and very hard to drill? What have you done, keep it or forget it?
I also found another stamped number in the center of the firewall, anyone know what it is?
Thanks
I also found another stamped number in the center of the firewall, anyone know what it is?
Thanks
Knuckle Bandage Sales Rep
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,676
Likes: 1,245
From: Maine
That cowl tag should come right off. There are short serrated pins/nails holding it on. Gently tap them out from the inside. That is, if it is like the last two cabs I have worked on. Maybe different assembly plants attached the tags differently.
Hey what was that big hole on the driver's side for? It is about where the voltage regulator should be. Tom
<edit> A closer look shows that you have bigger fasteners holding your tag on than what I have seen before.
Hey what was that big hole on the driver's side for? It is about where the voltage regulator should be. Tom
<edit> A closer look shows that you have bigger fasteners holding your tag on than what I have seen before.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,174
Likes: 4,781
From: Burbank, WA
The stamped number identifies your assembly plant (CH, Chicago), color code (M, Meadow Green, I believe) and scheduled assembly date 12H, August 12, 1950. (since you said it's a '50)
The firewall tag was originally installed with tiny drive rivets that easily tap out from the back side, typically. Yours does appear to have been modified at some point. You're on your own, then, to figure out the best way to remove it, if you so desire. Alternatively, you could just work around it.
Good luck with all that welding. Take your time and don't overheat and warp anything.
The firewall tag was originally installed with tiny drive rivets that easily tap out from the back side, typically. Yours does appear to have been modified at some point. You're on your own, then, to figure out the best way to remove it, if you so desire. Alternatively, you could just work around it.
Good luck with all that welding. Take your time and don't overheat and warp anything.
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Flat48
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jan 4, 2009 10:13 PM
