When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm finally getting around to ordering some new u-joints thanks to: Rufus1945
Dropped my rear driveshaft, and took some measurements.
Rear D-shaft REAR U-joint:
3.625" x 3.625" (cap to cap measurement)
1.062" (fixed drive shaft end - 2 external clips)
1.125" (differential end - 2x U-bolts)
Rear D-shaft FRONT U-joint:
3.625" x 3.625" (cap to cap measurement)
1.062" (drive shaft slip-yoke end - 2 external clips)
1.062" (transfer case end - 2x U-bolts)
Used the link above, and have come up with 3 possible choices for replacing my rear d-shaft u-joints...
3 choices for my the Rear Diff end of the rear driveshaft:
12 choices for my the T-case end of the rear driveshaft:
Two big questions I have...
Which is better?
1) Greasable U-joints appear to be cheaper....
2) Non-greasable are more expensive.... and I can't figure out why...
Why do none of the replacement U-joints quote using a "U-bolt"?
Almost all of them call out 2x external clips, and 2x internal clips... none of my U-joints have internal clips though...
I'm a diy guy too so i understand. The driveshaft shop can measure your part and sell you what you need and have you on your way. No installation necessarry.
Non greasable are stronger and typically last longer in my experience, especially off roading. I typically stick to Spicer if at all possible but everyone has their own flavor.
This is somehwat helpful, but I don't see a match between the U-joints I measured and the chart you posted. I guess I need to take more "B" measurements with my u-joints? Weird how Spicer goes cap to cap, whereas the chart you posted goes "out to out" with the needle bearing cap removed.
EDIT: I also have no idea how to determine the correct u-joint that has both the 1-1/8" diameter cap, AND the 1-1/16" diameter cap.
You're overthinking it. Pop one off, head to the auto part store and pick up a spicer replacement for it. You can even do it in the parking lot. Should cost about $8. Don't worry about whether it has a zerk fitting or not. If you do lots of off-roading, especially mudding, pick up an extra to keep in your glove box.
Agree as mentioned the non greasable are stronger. After wrestling around with NAPA and other parts listings, I followed the advice above, headed to Autozone with the old U joint and calipers to check. I got "premium" non greasable joints from stock. No issues.
For whatever reason AP store listings did not seem correct for my truck. I have had the same problem with newer vehicles as well on U joints. Go to the store and check works.
The non greasables are likely stronger for heavy service, but, so far I've never had to replace a greasable one that's been maintained properly, while I have with the non-greasables due to lack of lube. It seems like many people don't disassemble the non-greasables just to do a repack.
