Firstly, I'm not studding a 485k motor. The quote was $4500 to stud or $9000 for a fully rebuilt studded motor with a few extras. Also, I will investigate the oil cover but the issue wasn't present initially and has arose after driving with a tune for a bit.

The certified master diesel mechanic that was previously employed a full service CAT dealer has tested the hpop and confirmed it's failure. All fittings will be replaced at the same time. The oil cooler is going to be replaced as well along with a newer, larger turbo.

If I'm investing all of this money, and it's apart any way, what is the 6-800 dollars that a new hpop cost? So should I just replace what you are saying so that it all has to be torn out when it fails? It has 485k. I don't think it's unreasonable for the hpop to have given up the ghost as it was never asked to do what's being asked of it in all of that time. Oh! And a quick note, the truck hasn't showed even the faintest sign of head gasket issues.

 

Congrats on getting a good deal on the truck. Just so I'm clear:

- You got the truck, chipped it, put on a 4" exhaust, drove it like a Mustang then took it to the track. Now you have an issue with HPO pressure.
- You won't stud the engine but are willing to do the HPOP, oil cooler, and bigger turbo even though you "know the motor probably won't take it for a long time".

I'm not sure if you trying to get the last of the mileage out of the current engine or beating on it so you can buy a replacement. I am guessing the former as you mentioned you just bought a house and can't address the HPO issue right now.

Nothing personal but, if that's the case, you might want to re-read some of the posts of people trying to help out:

I'm not quite sure what this means:


Don't forget your driveline. With all that added power it's not built to launch like that forever.

There's an old saying...buy once, cry once. If it were me (I konw you didn't ask) I would make the decision to either make this block last or start putting money away for the rebuilt engine because, as you said, "the motor probably won't take it for a long time".

Just my 2¢

 

Ok to reiterate, this truck is mostly a toy. So as such, I'm not willing to throw a ton of money at it at the moment. Not to say I won't. Not sure if you ever bought a motor, but they don't come with all of the accessories, turbos, etc. So everything that's going on it will be going on the new motor as well. Also, this truck is not walking around with a 3/4 ton rear end. It will handle the launches for a while in sure. To be very clear, I am saving money for a new motor. I have no illusion that this motor will last taking this abuse. As for help, when I asked for help, I got none. When I post up about what I've been doing with it, I get unsolicited advice. I have a mechanic whom I trust. I appreciate the advise I do but I already know ALL OF THE RISK. From what I have read on here, most people believe that the Ford gold coolant combined with immense amount of stress the coolant system is under leads to more head gasket failures then tuning. There is a difference between not having the resources to fix the truck and not wanting to drop a bunch of money on a toy right before winter after having just purchased a house. Im not sure how you roll but I'm not looking to be rolling into winter with a light account with bills to pay and no idea what those bill might amount to.

 

I apologize for the misinterpretation.

You've dropped nearly $5K into this "toy" so far and it has already started to have issues. I don't know what you consider to be a "bunch of money" but you've already passed that level in my book.

I did not see things as unsolicited since you have asked several questions in this thread that others have answered in kind with their experience. My apologies for being out of line.

Enjoy "Pepsi Max" and all the bracket racing trophies you're sure to get.

 

Have you priced a new truck? How about a atv? 5k isn't a lot of money. So you are suggesting that a $4500 investment into a studding in a new motor is more sensible then replacing for $9000? Even though, after studding, it could fail simply because it does have nearly half a million miles. I went into this project with this in mind; a brand new equivalent truck would be well over 35k. I really don't want a 6.4 or a 7.3. Not to slander either motor but the 6.0, outside of the known issues, is a very good motor. I planned on having 20k or so in the truck and having a very well built reliable and, most importantly, PAYMENT free truck. I asked for advise weeks ago and got none. I post up a few pics and I was told my diagnosis of a bad hpop wrong. My apologies that 5k sounds like a lot to you. Everybody has a different way of getting places. Some people would rather finance a 20k truck. I'd rather build as I save the money. I don't begrudge anyone there own path. I'm also not looking for someone to help choose my path.

 

I still have my 7.3L because it's paid for. I'd also rather sink my cash into my dinosaur than finance something newer with 15 airbags and 10 computers (I have 2 airbags and 3 computers).

I have nothing against the 6.0L, they were just out of my price range "back in the day" when I was truck shopping. And I don't fault you for not getting the 7.3L. It's a l-o-n-g and expensive way from being a hotrod.

If you had a handfull of 50 $100 bills and the wind blew them out of your hand are you saying you wouldn't try to catch them before they flew down the street? If so then I need to be in whatever business you work in.

It's all relative. $5K is a drop in the bucket as far as automobiles are concerned. A handful of money or random check in the mail for $5K is a lot of money in my book. If anyone understands how far $5000 won't get you it's me in SoCal.

 

I just don't feel as though I am waisting money is why I am slightly put off. A new motor doesn't come with a turbo, oil cooler or hpop. To my knowledge, the motor will come as block with heads attached. They would be stripping everything from the valve covers up to put on the new motor. All of which is included in the price. Again, I don't mind advise. I welcome it. I'm surely not an expert. That's why I joined this board. I agree that head studs are needed. I'm just willing to let this one pop to get a new one.

 

According to the calculators I found, with an 8k weight and those times, that's around 470-480hp at the crank. A near 500hp truck for $5K sounds low buck to me, but trucks aren't cheap around here.

 

10 Characters.

 

Did you look at the pictures? I use the x4 to monitor. Something I haven't mentioned, I have already deleted the EGR valve. According to THIS site, the EGR does fail and flash boil...... And it's usually attributed to the Ford Gold Coolant leaving behind crap the causes blockage. Oh and it's the steam that causes "excess cylinder pressure" that "lifts" the head gaskets. I have done my fair share of research my friend. I asked a few questions and never got answers. I went to the mechanic and got them. Posted a few pics and got feed back I didn't ask for. Thanks for checking in though.

 

As someone else mentioned, you really need to change the oil filter and cap before doing anything else. That is not the correct cap for this engine, it's an aftermarket one. YOU MUST USE ONLY THE OEM (MOTORCRAFT) FILTER AND CAP ON THE 6.0L. Anything else can and will cause problems. Some auto parts stores carry the Motorcraft cap, but you may have to get it from a dealer depending on what's in your area. The Motorcraft filter (FL-2016) is available at pretty much any auto parts store or at Walmart so there's really no excuse to use anything else.

This goes for the fuel filters too. Only Motorcraft there as well. These filters were specially designed for this engine and the aftermarket options are made differently and just don't work properly.

I know you're getting advice you didn't ask for, but this is very important with this engine. I'm brand new to owning a 6.0 myself, but I did a lot of research here and elsewhere before buying one. I'd recommend heading over to the 6.0L forum. A lot of guys there that know their stuff that might not see your posts here in the general Super Duty forum. Good reading in the tech folder there too.

 

Well, as per repeated advise, I will use the motor craft oil filter and cover. I truly wasn't aware of how important that was. I have heard mention of it but didn't think it was that serious. I've been doing oil changes every 2k since I got it. It's not a trend I'll continue. When I got it the oil was black and thin. I don't have any service records so I figured I'd kind of clean out the system. Thank you all for pointing out the oil issue.

 

I'm not sure if this is your first Powerstroke but the HEUI system is rough on oil. Many people have oil samples analyzed to determine their OCI but I am not that advanced. The HPO system is abusive to the additives package and oil shear becomes an issue over time. I'm not sure about the 6.0L but when I can tell I've waiting too long to do an oil change. I change my oil every 5K regardless of brand or type.

Correct. That is the long block and will have the valvetrain also. If you went for a crate motor you could get the accessories too.

Depending on how the engine "retired" would depend on what parts I would move over.

 

Yeah I had gathered the oil in these trucks take some abuse. Ive been considering one of those relocated oil coolers to move it out of the valley though I haven't committed to anything yet. I know the Delta's are close to the limit at times. I was also concerned about oil getting into the new intercooler as I see it on the boots. My mechanic mentioned"venting" to atmosphere. Does that make sense?

 

If he's not talking about the crankcase then I don't know. Everything else is under pressure AFAIK.

I've seen some 6.0L videos and saw that the oil cooler is on top in the valley and that blows my mind. Mine is external under the driver's side exhaust manifold.