Just now noticed that the right rear frame rail of my '55 is tweaked at the bend over the axle leaving the extreme right rear rail 3/4" lower than the left rear. I'm at the rolling chasis stage and I noticed the bend as I tried to mount the new gas tank (ala John Niolon) and the tank wouldn't sit flat. Othe than the up/down dimension being 3/4" out of whack, the frame has consistent side to side measurements.

Questions: Can I safely bend the frame back to level? I often slow down my work when these situations arise, so I am in deep ponder mode right now. Will I have to heat the frame? Can some cobinations of chains, weights and cherry-picker be used? Help!!!

I wish I had a hydraulic frame jig like the frame shops use. Maybe my wife will get me one for Christmas.

 

I don't know where you are in Texas, but I think if it were me I'd consider taking it to a truck frame shop. They straighten truck frames on a daily basis from wrecks, etc. Frame straightening is a little bit of an art and requires experience and an incredible amount of heavy expensive equipment.

I think getting it to and from a frame shop might be the bigest part of the job. I don't think the cost of fixing the mior problem you have would be too great. Getting the frame straight will probably cure a lot of problems you might encounter later, such as sheet metal alignment, bed alignment, handling problems and tire wear problems.

I would recoment getting it done professionaly and making sure the frame is realy straight.

I don't think heating the frame is ever recomended. They are almost always straightened 'cold' to preserve the temper in the steel.

Good luck, and be safe.

Jim McNaul
BobJonesSpecial

 

When I welded my frame patches in, I got a hefty I-beam from the local scrap steel yard. I told the yard I was bringing it back as scrap shortly, and they agreed to "rent" it to me for $10. They took a deposit for what it was worth as scrap, and refunded it all except $10 when I returned the I-beam.

I think you can do something similar to straighten your frame.

1. Put a 2x4 (or a couple) on the axle "hump" in the frame rail. This is to protect the frame rail from the base of the jack you'll be using.
2. Put a hydraulic jack on top of the 2x4.
3. Set up 2x4 blocks 3' in front and 3' behind the jack. Make sure the tops of the stacks of blocks are just taller than the top of the hydraulic jack.
4. Set the I-beam on top of the 2x4 stacks, parallel and above the frame rail. Make sure you have the I-beam upright - it doesn't have much strength at all if you lay it on it's side.
5. Wrap a chain below the frame rail and up and over the I-beam at the location of each 2x4 stack. Make sure both chains are secured in place.
6. Jack up the I-beam until the frame rail flexes a little and measure the vertical distance from the base of the jack to the bottom of the I-beam.
7. Release the jack and see where the end of your frame rail is.
8. Jack up the I-beam 1/4" higher than in step 6.

Repeat 7 and 8 until you get the frame rail tail where you want it.

OR, take your frame to a shop and have them do it. Might be cheaper and a lot less hassle.

 

CL

I agree with BobJones take it to the frame shop. The frame being the least bit out will only increase the fitting problem at every point. The frame shop probable won't charge too much since you have done all the work for them by having the frame stripped. Depending on the size of the motor you are putting in you might want to look at a reinforcement of the frame at that point. The frame shop will have a good idea as to what kind of force bent it there to start with.

Bill