If the weather is cool and not excessively humid, the check engine light is off, I get great gas mileage, etc. I mean, I can go 40 miles and the gas gauge doesn't even indicate 1/10 of a tank used.

If the weather is hot (>80 or 85F) or sometimes humid, the check engine light comes on, throwing a P1443, and my gas mileage goes down the drain. 40 miles goes through a quarter tank!

Is my Purge Canister Solenoid going bad, or is it possible it's the wiring? Has anyone else ever had the problem occur only in certain weather conditions?

Also, how much does a clutch assembly (master and slave cylinder assembly) usually run (approximately) for being replaced - I have called and messaged a few places, but not one of them have gotten back to me about it. Turns out, my brothers were all swearing my synchronizes were bad, but they aren't... my master cylinder is going. I have a ton of debris in my clutch fluid, sometimes it works great, sometimes it feels like nothing is engaging or disengaging to change gears. The only symptom it hasn't had yet is the clutch pedal not bouncing back. I'm hoping their bad information hasn't ruined my transmission...

 

 

Yes, it is the 1996 Ranger that is listed in my profile.

Is that for the part or the work or both? Most, if not all, places around here require that you allow them to supply the parts and many will require that you allow them to do a diagnostic before they will touch any vehicle - even with an obvious problem (I was told once I'd have to pay like 100 for a cooling system diagnostic when there was an obvious leak in the radiator that was spewing steam - it was a pin hole - different vehicle - and this is an obvious problem since I looked at the clutch fluid myself but will likely have to pay for a diagnostic).

For the p1443, I'm leaning toward the canister is deteriorating or clogged. I'm in Delaware State and the heat and humidity here can be atrocious, gumming things up and such, but it can also corrode wires.

I would have gotten the clutch issues fixed months ago when I had the money but my three brothers, who are all mechanics but all want my pickup, were all feeding me bad information and swearing it was a much more expensive repair - a transmission rebuild - which I couldn't afford at the time and still can't.

 

I dont know about your area, but I paid $200 for a clutch install at a local independent shop. I buy all the parts he pulls the trans and installs. I use the autozone parts as they have lifetime guarantee and I have not had any issues with them replacing any item. The master and a slave will run close to $100 and a clutch kit is about $150 or so. A new flywheel is about $50 and a rear main is about $15.

Yes does require the trans to be pulled and can be a DIY if you have tools jacks etc. Also depends on what model, engine is involved. Mine is a 94 4.0.

 

It's a 1996 Ford Ranger Extended Cab XLT with a 3.0 Liter V6 and Four Wheel Drive. The transmission is a Mazda R1.

I don't have the tools, and I don't have anywhere I can do the work. I also don't know enough to do the work myself. My step pop already said he wasn't pulling the transmission to do the work, and at this point, I don't trust my brothers who I think will still swear it's my synchronizers (even though I've had 3 people agree with me at this point that it's not my synchronizers). I trusted them with the transmission and a few other things and figured out that they are trying to screw me over to get my truck. One of them admitted it to our mom and my step pop cussed him out good.