First drip..... what is it?
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First drip..... what is it?
Hi,
My 2000 F-250 has always had a dry engine - NO oil leaks. I had a leaky power steering pump once and fixed it, but otherwise dry as a bone. Recently, however, I noticed a drip hanging off the rear end of the oil pan and can't see where it's coming from. I 'think' I can see oil wetness inside the weep hole on the bell housing, and wonder if I have a rear main seal leaking? I can't see if it's the oil pan or block/head or valve cover. With 186,000 miles, how likely is it that it's rear main seal leak? Can this seal be replaced without huge expense? Oh ... I'm running a 5.4L Triton...
Thanks,
Brian
My 2000 F-250 has always had a dry engine - NO oil leaks. I had a leaky power steering pump once and fixed it, but otherwise dry as a bone. Recently, however, I noticed a drip hanging off the rear end of the oil pan and can't see where it's coming from. I 'think' I can see oil wetness inside the weep hole on the bell housing, and wonder if I have a rear main seal leaking? I can't see if it's the oil pan or block/head or valve cover. With 186,000 miles, how likely is it that it's rear main seal leak? Can this seal be replaced without huge expense? Oh ... I'm running a 5.4L Triton...
Thanks,
Brian
Last edited by tananaBrian; Jul 11, 2018 at 06:13 AM. Reason: Add engine type
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 412
From: Washington Coast
Every seal has leakage due to lubrication requirements and as long as it’s less than say 5 drops a minute it’s good. Every engine, pump, compressor, or turbine I’ve ever worked on had leakage to some degree no matter the type of seal. Seals are also designed to be sacrificial and be the wear parts not the hard components.
For years pump shafts have and some still use mechanical packing. These have adjustable glands to compress and seal the shaft. Many times people will over tighten and burn the packing up trying to stop “The Leak” and even damage the shaft requiring installation of a shaft sleeve, this is where I come in.
You can if your concerned first off give it a good cleaning with preferably a hot water pressure washer then go in with an inspection camera, you can buy an inexpensive one at the big box stores, and plan from there for if it’s a simple replacement of a seal or the valve covers but at the amount you’re describing I wouldn’t be concerned. Clean it up real good and you may not see it again for months or years.
For years pump shafts have and some still use mechanical packing. These have adjustable glands to compress and seal the shaft. Many times people will over tighten and burn the packing up trying to stop “The Leak” and even damage the shaft requiring installation of a shaft sleeve, this is where I come in.
You can if your concerned first off give it a good cleaning with preferably a hot water pressure washer then go in with an inspection camera, you can buy an inexpensive one at the big box stores, and plan from there for if it’s a simple replacement of a seal or the valve covers but at the amount you’re describing I wouldn’t be concerned. Clean it up real good and you may not see it again for months or years.
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I've seen prop shafts on inboard boats with bearings and 'packed seals' like that. I just changed the oil on the truck (10w-30w), including some Lucas brand synthetic oil conditioner (motor honey) since I have a couple of clattering lifters and I think the Lucas stuff helps keep lifters from draining down. In any case, the drip still occurs... but not very often. The thinner oil that it had before changing resulted in more drips. I think I'll clean it up and see if I can't get one of those cheap endo-scope type cameras and take a look ... it's an excuse to buy a new toy 
Brian
Brian
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