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I just finished doing rear brakes. After bleeding the whole brake system, I took my truck for a spin and lost about 90% of my stopping power. I almost rear ended someone because I couldn't stop with 30ft in front of me.
Here's my question. What could be going bad in my truck to justify why my *new* brakes suck.
There are absolutely no leaks, I just did new lines (all matching parts in which I replaced), no missing parts in the drums, nothing wrong up front (didn't change anything and previously had decent stopping power).
Is it possible I bled my brakes wrong? I did it myself using a bottle and air tight tube to make a siphon. I closed the bleeder when there was no more air in my clear tubing.
Also, my rear right drum brake is now making an audible grinding noise. I read somewhere that it could be I have a bent drum cover (not sure the exact name for it). Thoughts on this one? It wasn't grinding with the old drum, and I did have a really hard time removing the drum on this side when replacing it.
if you are referring to the drums, do you mean the self adjusting bolt?
It sounds like you have not done brakes before. You did not test the brakes before you got on the road for 1.
You also don't know about adjusting drum brakes. Please get help if you have not done them before.
Drum brakes need to be adjusted before the self adjusters will work.
At the bottom you have that star part on the adjuster you use a brake spoon from the back side to turn that star.
Adjust to where the wheel just gets hard to turn or you hear the brakes start to drag.
Then see if you have brakes by moving and testing in the drive. You should have done that before you went out on the road.
Before you do the adjusting pull the drums again and check why you have that grinding sound.
Are all the springs in place, adjusting cable also in place.
Dave ----
if you are referring to the drums, do you mean the self adjusting bolt?
There is a slot in the backing plate. You take a blunt screwdriver or they do make a special tool, insert it in the slot, and turn the toothed wheel with the tire off the ground. Turn the tire by hand as you are turning the toothed wheel adjuster. When the tire locks up and you cannot turn it anymore, then turn the toothed wheel the other way till you can turn the tire again, but there is still some slight rubbing of the brake shoes. Then jack up the other side and do the same for that wheel also.
This should correct a very low pedal. I suspect after you correct this, your pedal will still be spongy. You really can't bleed the brakes properly yourself. The bleeder lets air in around it's threads, and ruins your tube in the fluid method. The best way is to get a helper, get them to push down on the brake pedal and hold it, you get under and crack the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, and then tell them to lift off the brake pedal. Keep doing this till your hose is clear of bubbles. It takes a lot of fluid to bleed the rear brakes completely if they went dry. More fluid than the small reservoir holds in the master cylinder, so keep an eye on the fluid level in the master as you are doing this so you do not run out and have to start all over again.
Same as both Dave's have said. I just did my first drum brake job but had seen a lot of examples and had the shop manual. PIA nonetheless.
Adjusting the bottom adjusting bolt with the drum off is the fastest and easiest way since you can move the adjusting lever out of the way. Plus you should have the drum off to investigate the grinding noise. I had to retake my drum off and re-adjust one side of mine. A slight drag should be felt. Also noticed I routed the adjusting cable incorrectly.
Bleeding too I found that I couldn't do with the vacuum pump at the bleeder. If you had a way to seal the reservoir you would do the vacuum bleed that way but simpler to pay your kids a couple of bucks to help you and get them off the xbox...