I have cleaned all areas under the truck and still I have a persistent leak that I can't isolate to the oil pan or the main. I am going to fix this next week and I would greatly appreciate all the help or advice about all the questions I have regarding this process. Does the engine need to be raised or removed? I have read where the crush on a gasket or seal is critical along with proper installation. There are other questions but if someone could give me the basic advice how to best do this job, I would be so appreciative. I will also replace the oil pump. And I plan on using Felpro gaskets. My specs for the truck are below in sig. Thank you. Sandy

 

Pull the engine, it will be a MUCH easier job in the long run(ask me how I know)

As for the gasket, get the steel embossed in rubber one. you cannot over tighten it.

And the rear main is a 2 piece

 

Is the steel embossed in rubber pan gasket the Felpro Blue one or another brand? Thank you Brad. Any other tricks anyone? Sandy

 

I got mine from Ford

 

Sandy, did you end up tackling this? How did you go about it?

I'm in the process of doing the same, plus resealing the timing cover. I've got the pan sitting on top of the cross member with the engine supported by my hoist. It looks like I'll have to drop the exhaust some to get the pan out from the back, but I haven't figured out how to get it out around the oil pump.

 

I was there most of the time but my bud said he looked at everything and figured if he removed the throttle body and the housing the motor could be raised enough without removing it. He may have removed the exhaust but I am not sure. I was out of town when he did that part. Anything else? Sandy

 

I did the oil pan etc. job on my '89.

The exhaust has to come off at the manifold.

The trans had to be loosened from cross member.

Remove everything that would stop the engine from pretty much bumping up into the firewall, then use blocks to support it, don't work under an engine held on a hydraulic seal.

You reach into the pan for the oil pump, drop it into pan pluck it out.

The hard part is getting it all together, with pulling the distributor ( it seizes), using hitch pins on small 1/4 x20 studs (fashioned out of bolts),that are JUST long enough to hold pan gasket in place ON THE CLEANED SURFACE OF THE BLOCK while you put THE PAN up there ( temporarily with nuts, until you can get some bolts in, then pull the hitch pins and run the studs out), installing the oil pump with the pan in your way, lining up the oil pump drive rod with the distributor drive( you may be able to reach through the open timing cover, I think I had to use mechanics wire at some point to immobilize a part while I brought the oil pump up to block, WHILE REACHING INTO OIL PAN).

Those oil pan gaskets use no sealant, call Fel-Pro Tech line with any questions about gaskets or sealants.

The rear main seal is like impossible on the later big blocks with the motor in the truck, don't do it, you practically would have to drop the crank, it's not the rope seal that can be pulled around fish-style like the earlier engines.

Use your old timing cover, wire brush with drill, paint, don't use a Dorman timing cover on these, your 91' has 5/16 oil pan corner bolts, the two front ones are in the timing cover, if you need an OEM make sure it's post-4/1/1989, which is when they changed from the 4-piece oil pan gasket to the one piece rubber with the steel shims on each oil pan bolt, and the steel flanges on each side of the oil pan that the bolt go through.

Some of this is in the Haynes manual.

The water pump has to be assembled to the timing cover on the bench, then installed as an assembly, that's right out of the Ford manual.

Water jacket water pump bolts need the Permatex specified.

New timing chain and sprocket at this time.

Procedure to check clearances on the oil pump usually shows them to be in-spec, they are beefy.

 

WOW If my bud did all that I am glad I wasn't there. He has his own shop with lifts etc. and I refuse to let him do it for free even if I help.. But, if he did all that, and I will find out, I owe him a lot more than he charged me. He was like there was nothing to it. I try and do all my own stuff but I couldn't do it by myself at home. I will find out what was involved in him getting it out. Sandy. Did you remove the TB assembly?

 

Don't pull the oil pump if the motor was cared for throughout it's service life and under 150k. Just leave it.

If possible.

But the pan won't come out with the oil pump in.

Fashion studs for oil pan installation out of 1/4 in. threaded rod, use a dremel tool cut off, I believe 1in. length is what I used but may have been 3/4in., the difference in length will become obvious when putting up the pan, too short and you won't get the original oil pan bolts through the steel flange to start, too long and the pan will bump them on the way in, that's how close this job is dimensionally.

The throttle body will come off, pin the motor/trans almost against the transmission tunnel, the trans dipstick should clear, but check, make sure the oil pressure sending unit will clear, everything essentially, don't rush it.

The Dorman pan has it's edges rolled different than Ford's, it's a 1/4 in wider and will only work if installed on a motor that's out of the truck, that's how tight this job is.

To work on this part you can cut a piece of 1x6 section of wood 7 ft. or so in length,whatever will go across both fenders with some extra length of 4in. on both side, use a five gallon bucket as a step up if necessary and use knelling pads to kneel on core support then lay down and your suspended over the motor to all the locations you need to be. pad the fenders under the wood.

Keep the work area CLEAN, every move, grit in this area is not acceptable. Clean EVERY gasket surface with brake cleaner, alcohol, gasket fragments 100%.

Also check driveshaft impact, meaning if you feel the trans angle impacts the yoke in any way, pull the driveshaft.

 

I had my oil pan replaced in 2012 on my 94 with the 5.8. The mechanic who did the replacement didn't disconnect the exhaust as suggested. He simply cut the Y pipe and lowered the exhaust for clearance. He then lifted the engine/transmission combination as suggested above and removed and replaced the oil pan. When finished, he welded the exhaust together. Simple, quick and effective as I had the truck until summer of this year and had no problems with the exhaust.

Maybe it's something that will help someone else with oil pan or related issues.

 

That sounds like the way my bud probably did it, but I will find out for sure tomorrow. Sandy

 

I talked to my bud today that did the pan removal on my 91 and what he did was as follows: Removed the throttle body and housing. Removed the starter. Removed the fan and.Jacked the motor up and put 2X4's under the motor between the motor mounts. Nothing else he could remember. No removing exhaust or cutting pipes. He sure made it sound easy. Anyway this is what he did. He did do the oil pump blind. If you have any questions I didn't answer, I am happy to ask him for you and for my knowledge. Sandy

 

Not sure why he removed anything off the top of the engine, nothing is in the way to lift the engine.

Also not sure how he removed the pan with the Y-pipe in the way either

 

Brad, he said he removed the TB and housing so he could raise the engine enough to do the job. He also confirmed he did not remove any exhaust or manifold. Removing the fan might give a clue as to why. That is the extent of what I know. I can quiz him again when I speak with him as I am curious also. Anything else you want me to ask him, I'm happy to do so. Sandy

 

I just asked him if he completely removed the pan or only lowered it. He said he removed it and cleaned it. He also painted it for me. Sandy