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What would cause the AC compressor to kick in and out constantly. Was working fine a few days ago. Now it will not cool and when I look at the compressor the clutch is kicking in and out. Help?
Guess I’ll have to convert it over. It’s an old r12 system. I just bought this truck. 89 f250 with a 300 6 cylinder with a 5 speed manual. 41k original miles. Sat up for about 11 years before the original
owner decided to sell it to me. All he used it for was moving feed around on his farm.
I snag the small cans of R12 from E-bay when I have a R12 project. Most sellers state you need an EPA609 certificate, easily done with an online test, but no one has ever asked me for a copy of mine.
Mine was doing the same thing two weeks ago. My buddy put in a new compressor and a new orifice. He said the new orifice is very important. Mine was black and they call it the black death. One video I watched the guy did what I think is a good idea. He put his new compressor in and cleaned his old orifice. He then put the old cleaned orifice back in and ran the system for 30 min or so as I recall. He then pulled it and it was nasty again from what was left in the system. He then put the new orifice in and all was well at that time. As far as I was concerned, I was going to convert but it had already been done. I didn't want to have to hunt for the new R system freon and it is very expensive. I am not knowledgeable about A/C systems so this is just my experience. My A/C is working in our 100*+ temps now so mine is good. Sandy
i would not convert it. R-12 is still readily available if you know what you are doing, and works much better than R-134A
Define what you mean by works better?
With the correct components, just like R-12. R-134a has excellent heat transfer capability. R134a --has a latent heat of evaporation 85 BTU per pound at 25F R12------has a latent heat of evaporation 66 BTU per pound at 25F
The density of 134a is approx. 91% of R12 so for the same volume flow, you still are at about 77 BTU/equal volume units which is still higher than R12. The coefficient of performance of R12 is 3.55 and for 134a it is 3.47.
what i mean is that unless you dump a lot of money into the truck to convert the AC system to work with the R-134A, the R-12 is better.
why spend 6-700 to convert when you can usually repair and recharge for under $100?
I see your point. In my opinion, R-134a is the way to go if possible. Parts are cheap and the system is simple to work on. R-12 is CFC and an abomination to our Ozone layer, and subsequently the world we live in. One molecule of chorine is estimated to destroy 100,000 Ozone molecules. If you could care less about the environment and the long term service of your system, throw some R-12 in there. If you have 300$ for parts, and want your system to last a while? Go on RockAuto and the whole A/C system is 296.54 less shipping... You can rent a vacuum pump and gauges at AutoZone. The charge will cost around 40$.
Replacing the entire system may sound like a large task, and yeah it kinda is. BUT, it is NOT hard
until next year or 2020 when R134-A becomes illegal to use.
while R-12 may be a CFC R134-A is still almost as bad
and the new crap they are converting to in 2020 is even worse. it is HIGHLY flammable and produces a toxic gas when burned
some cars are already using it. chrysler corp started using it in 2014 in the jeeps.
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