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  #91  
Old 10-12-2018, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Nope, sounds like a 7.3 that maybe needs some cold start attention. It's not that bad really. How is it when it's warmed up?
I didn't have enough time to fully warm it up today, tomorrow morning I will though. It ran kinda rough on initial startup, then cleared up after like 20-30 seconds. So maybe a bit of sticktion? In that clip it was actually running real smooth. Like I could sit in the seat and not feel any rough vibrations, it's just that loud knock that has me wondering...
Maybe I'll go for a drive tonight and find out...
 
  #92  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:32 PM
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Took the truck for a drive to get fuel, $3.50 a gallon for #1!! Ouch that hurt, 80 bucks to fill it, won't be able to sleep tonight
Anyway, the truck runs great when warmed up to operating temp, that extra knock seems to be gone. So possible sticking injector(s)?
 
  #93  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:44 PM
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Well, our injectors do not really "stick" like the 6.0. They can tend to run rough until warm when they are getting worn. There really isn't much you can do other than replace them when you get tired of dealing with it. I drove my last OBS for 2 years like that until I finally replaced them with a set of Premium Rosewoods. After that, smooth as butter cold or warm. Whatever you do, do not add any sort of additives. Or injector systems do not like that. Just keep your oil clean and changed until you decide to do something about it. One thing you could do is check your valve cover harnesses.
 
  #94  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Well, our injectors do not really "stick" like the 6.0. They can tend to run rough until warm when they are getting worn. There really isn't much you can do other than replave them when you get tired of dealing with it. I drove my last OBS for 2 years like that until I finally replaced them with a set of Premium Rosewoods. After that, smooth as butter cold or warm. Whatever you do, do not add any sort of additives. Or injector systems do not like that. Just keep your oil clean and changed until you decide to do something about it. One thing you could do is check your valve cover harnesses.
Good to know, I'll have to save up for a set of injectors...
The only additives I run are Archoil AR 6200 in the fuel and AR 9100 in the oil, I have heard nothing but good things about it so might as well.
 
  #95  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by '99F250
Good to know, I'll have to save up for a set of injectors...
The only additives I run are Archoil AR 6200 in the fuel and AR 9100 in the oil, I have heard nothing but good things about it so might as well.
Don't waste your money. That stuff is pricey and it's not doing anything. Again, that's only a 6.0 problem. 7.3 injectors do best on simple clean oil, no additives.
 
  #96  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001
Don't waste your money. That stuff is pricey and it's not doing anything. Again, that's only a 6.0 problem. 7.3 injectors do best on simple clean oil, no additives.
Interesting, I guess I thought they were both very similar. Learn something every day!
 
  #97  
Old 10-13-2018, 02:32 PM
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$3.50 for #1 would be a great deal. #2 is over $4 here. Besides that I don't know if #1 has enough lubricity for our engines and as far as I know it isn't even available around here unless you can but it in barrels. Last time I even saw any was at a harbor fuel dock and that was more years ago than I like to remember!
 
  #98  
Old 10-13-2018, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17
$3.50 for #1 would be a great deal. #2 is over $4 here. Besides that I don't know if #1 has enough lubricity for our engines and as far as I know it isn't even available around here unless you can but it in barrels. Last time I even saw any was at a harbor fuel dock and that was more years ago than I like to remember!
What is the difference between #1 and #2?
 
  #99  
Old 10-13-2018, 04:35 PM
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I think that the main difference is the degree of refining and lubricity. As I understand it #1 is more like kerosene. As it is, the #2 ULSD can use some help in that department for our older diesels.
 
  #100  
Old 10-13-2018, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17
I think that the main difference is the degree of refining and lubricity. As I understand it #1 is more like kerosene. As it is, the #2 ULSD can use some help in that department for our older diesels.
Well I got curious and looked it up, looks like I'm stuck with #1 until the blends come out
 
  #101  
Old 10-13-2018, 06:11 PM
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I don't understand why you would not have easy access to #2 diesel but if that is the case I would think a fuel additive is in order for lubricity concerns.
 
  #102  
Old 10-13-2018, 06:16 PM
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I do have access to #2, but as #1 is better for cold weather (been low 30's every night) I got that, I didn't know it didn't lubricate as much as #2. I guess next time I'll go for #2...
 
  #103  
Old 10-13-2018, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17
I don't understand why you would not have easy access to #2 diesel but if that is the case I would think a fuel additive is in order for lubricity concerns.
We do not need fuel additives for lubricity.


Guys, put down the additive crack pipe and walk away. Seriously, the current diesel fuel is not like 2007 when they first made the switch and our trucks are fine without it. My truck had 280k miles with the original fuel pump. It's never had additives. The injectors do not need it because they are oil driven. The idea of lack of lubricity is a false one. Don't waste your money.
 
  #104  
Old 10-28-2018, 05:40 PM
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Well I finally found time to check some stuff. So I looked at my front passenger balancer, as the wheel was covered in black crap, looked like the caliper hung up, turns out the balancer was rubbing real good on the caliper bracket, somehow that got past me when I installed. Ended up taking it off until I can look at the others, there's two kinds, and apparently they are different, but me being me I didn't read the instructions, but oh well, it still feels like it's fine so I'll run it later.

Looked at both driveshaft halves with a straight edge, they both look straight. I also pulled the rear diff fill plug to check the fluid level, it's correct, but looks kinda cruddy. I might change that this week. I did find quite a bit of shavings on the plug, along with some bigger pieces, should this raise concerns? Would this cause this vibration?

Here's some pics:






Also it just didn't seem like enough meat for the wheel to sit on the hub, gonna look into that too.
 
  #105  
Old 10-28-2018, 07:38 PM
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So I came upon this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-75mph.html

That got me thinking I should try it, so I did. I put the truck in 4 LO and basically redlined it to get to 45 MPH, where the vibration is at it's worst. There was a vibration, but it was different. It's like it was a different frequency, but still there.
 


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