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imWelp, the compressor bit the dust on the 74. It locked up. I’m on the hunt for a replacement , but having some issues with model #s. The compressor appears to have a motorcraft identification tag on it. Tag has yn2737686 and d3zh-2875-a2a etched on it. Rock auto lists 3 compressors for it. Planning to flush the evap, condenser , and lines. I will install a new dryer and txv at the same time . planning to covert to 134a since r12 has gone through the roof around here.
i know the compressor has a sump, but does any of that oil make its way into the refrigerant?
Either way, what should I run for oil now ? I would assume that if the oil will make contact with the old lines , ester would be necessary. Any help is appreciated. It’s been years since I’ve had a vehicle without a/c and I have become a bit of a pansy. I’d really like to enjoy this thing through the summer .
If a York style compressor the oil for the compressor and the oil in the refrigerant lines is separate. If changing, may as well go to a Sanden style (less drag). New dryer is not expensive and I got a new TXV at O'Reilly's for about $12 a few years back. If you are doing the R134 swap. you will need PAG oil in the lines. Plan on replacing all the O-rings with R134 rings (usually green, but check.) If you are dead set on a York compressor, mine was turning freely when I swapped to a Sanden compressor - no idea if it would need reeseal but it's yours if you want to pay shipping. I suspect you could pull one in a junkyard cheaper.
Interesting; I pulled a a6 pump from a 1978 car, merc maybe with a 400, saved the brackets, thought I would use on my 1978 f250 400, no chance, That car had a gm looking long compressor. I saw a lincoln with the same thing. I wonder if there was a retro fit kit back when to do away the yorks???? I didn't know that about fords ac.
imWelp, the compressor bit the dust on the 74. It locked up. I’m on the hunt for a replacement , but having some issues with model #s. The compressor appears to have a motorcraft identification tag on it. Tag has yn2737686 and d3zh-2875-a2a etched on it. Rock auto lists 3 compressors for it. Planning to flush the evap, condenser , and lines. I will install a new dryer and txv at the same time . planning to covert to 134a since r12 has gone through the roof around here.
i know the compressor has a sump, but does any of that oil make its way into the refrigerant?
Either way, what should I run for oil now ? I would assume that if the oil will make contact with the old lines , ester would be necessary. Any help is appreciated. It’s been years since I’ve had a vehicle without a/c and I have become a bit of a pansy. I’d really like to enjoy this thing through the summer .
If you do an aftermarket York, be careful regarding the clutch and where the suction port is. On my '76 F-250 460 2WD I had some grief on those two subjects. I ended up reusing the old clutch which was still O.K. My first shipment from Rock had to go back. Also most aftermarkets seem to come from China. Try not to mix lubricants. The lubricant should be compatible with the refrigerant.
Interesting; I pulled a a6 pump from a 1978 car, merc maybe with a 400, saved the brackets, thought I would use on my 1978 f250 400, no chance, That car had a gm looking long compressor. I saw a lincoln with the same thing. I wonder if there was a retro fit kit back when to do away the yorks???? I didn't know that about fords ac.
GM (Fridgidaire) compressor called a swash plate. Will be found in misc years Thunderbird, LTD/Grand Marquis, Granada/Monarch/Versailles, Lincoln Town Car & Continental Marks.
Be best if you get a Ford factory shop manual set for your truck. Every type of repair you do on the truck will be shown in very good detail. Along with capacities and torque specs. Make sure you get full set, usually around 4 or 5 volumes. Well worth the price if you plan on keeping something. Just checked the bay and many sets for sale.
Last edited by 5851a; Jun 17, 2018 at 07:15 AM.
Reason: additional info
For those who did the sanden conversion, Do you have a link to all of the parts? For the cost of a new clutch on the york, I can likely pick up the mounting bracket. Will my old lines thread on or will I have to make changes?
You may need to pick up some adapter fittings if you don't get new hoses - my hoses looked good so I bought adapters for the banjo fittings. The TXV I bought was R134 specific, I believe the condenser and dryer are agnostic. You can buy different model compressors with different thread fittings; I am not sure they still make 'em for the banjo style.
Finally got around to ordering the compressor kit tonight . Went with the Sanden retrofit from yogi’s. I called them last week and they said the lines should thread right on.
Ordered a new txv and drier off rock auto . I should have all of the green o-rings on hand . Now I need to get back into the dash and repair all of the torn flexible ducts . Has anyone found a suitable replacement?
I also ordered new window felts and seals off rock auto. It will be nice to have the windows roll up strait and not rattle .