Since you may run it awhile make sure you burp the coolant with the top radiator hose to get the air out. Thats the only way I know how to do it . For the long run plan on flushing with distilled water and mix your own antifreeze with wally world distilled make your own mix 50/50.
I hope she settles down for you when she relearns . Good to know no rough noises .

 

One of the first steps after a major repair like this, would be to scan for DTCs.

 

Plan on changing oil soon after tear down as all sorts of junk gets in there . Conventional oil cheaper for these quick oil changes . New vehicles have you change oil quickly for the same reasons. Lets hope you are in the home stretch now .Quick means like in a couple of weeks or 200-300 miles ,break-in stuff .

 

All good advice. Congrats on getting it running Im sure we can get it sorted out the hard part is over with.

 

Thank you all for your input. Home for lunch but don't really have a lot of time to get into it. To be honest, I'm a little scared I will hear that awful sieze noise. I know the injectors are not the same and the gas has been drained and changed. so I feel positive it's a different reason for the spitting and spuddereing.
Redfish, how do you "burp" the radiator with the top hose, how long does it take to relearn? @70f, I know I put 4 Gallons of Gas in......Not sure why my cab guage is over half? Is it possible I could have got water in the tank....Maybe that's why its running ruff. If this thing seizes again....OMG no telling what I will do

Thanks Dale

 

Back when I did these regularly I would leave the front heater hose off while I fill the cooling system until coolant came out of the hose fitting then I would put the hose on. This makes sure there are no air pockets in the engine and the thermostat opens as it should. Once the thermostat opens the top hose will get hot and the coolant level will drop some. Squeezing the hose will help the remaining air escape or "burp" out. The only way you could get water in the tank is if you left the fuel cap off. Do you have access to a scan tool? That will help you figure out why its running rough.

 

@70f, are you speaking about removing this hose?

 

Thats the one. Just make sure not to spill a lot of coolant on the coils. You can leave it on partially, fill the degas bottle, the take the hose off to let the air escape so you will be right there when the coolant comes out.

 

I need to buy a scan tool,,,It's running really bad and I'm afraid to drive it anymore. Any advice on these Iphone scan tools would be appreciated. I am sooooooo moping. It's running like on 4 cylinders and keeps cutting out. It's horrible sounds like not all cylinders are firing. No smoke but lots of hesitation, sputtering and no power. I'm going to bed.

 

Don't give up yet. Since nothing is knocking or banging or grinding there shouldn't be any mechanical issues. One thing that comes to mind is the spark plugs in the head you pulled. When you cleaned the head were the plugs still in it? If so then maybe some of the crud got into the plugs and are shorting out the spark. Just a thought. I dont have any experience with the OBDII adapters I have always had access to factory scan tools. F150Torqued is the expert on the bluetooth doo-dads

 

Appreciate the mention @70f100longbed. Don't know how well I can uphold the expert designation - especially following what you've done. In fact I know very little about iPhone (IOS) OBDII systems. But if the OP would consider picking up a cheap / used Android device with working WiFi and Bluetooth. We can set him up with Torque Pro and a Bluetooth dongle for $25 - 30 bucks. With Torque Pro's capability/flexibility, there is NOTHING in OBDII we can't read and display on a meaningful gauge. Between all us, I am confident we have followers who can interpret the meanings.

This has GOT to be something stupid simple, loose connection, forgotten sensor plug somewhere, bad ground, pinched wire or the like. Some good well placed OBDII readings would be worth a fortune right now.

 

Scan for DTCs. Run a relative compression test and monitor power balance with IDS and the likely source of concern can fairly quickly be narrowed down.

 

Well, I bought a scanner today and I have no power at the diagnostics terminal. It's not fuse 110 or 117 any other ideas on what's up or how to bypass is appreciated ( Cig lighter is also dead). Also, I did find a ground wire not connected and also want to verify vacuum hoses. Look at the picture below:. Does anyone recall where this ground line goes in upper left picture? The blue arrows show each end of th this vacuum line does anyone see a problem? Thank you all. I am sure this something silly!!!

 

Wow, this has been an epic and interesting read. I'm don't profess to be any kind of expert (on anything), but it kind of sounds like the timing is off. I'm going to venture an educated guess that those cheap, aftermarket phasers (one or both) is the culprit of the rough idle.

 

Have to look at ground braid tomorrow .