Factory carbs of this vintage have the sealed idle adjustment screws. During a rebuild, you have to take a hacksaw or some other tool and cut away they metal so you can pull them out to clean, and then later on you can adjust them.

If you do not have emissions inspections, a aftermarket holley will bolt right on and will not have or require all those hoses.

 

 

I would lean toward getting a new carb rather than a rebuilt factory one. It might even be cheaper. A clean fuel tank with a new fuel filter and a new carb should make it run good and reliable. You will need to bone up a little bit on what's going on with all that junk, and what you need to keep and what you need to get rid of. When you get in the middle of it, we can guide you along.

How does this compare to a rebuilt factory type carb price wise? I did pick a manual choke version, that is what I prefer myself.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...850s/overview/

 

 

 

I don't know what the difference would be?
Try to Google both and see what you come up with.

As for the heater hose it could have been done because the heater core leaks or because it is hot there and hot water will always be flowing thru the core it will add heat that you don't want when it is hot out.

There are posts on adding a vacuum valve to close the water flow when the heater is off may want to look into that.
Dave - - - -

 

The universal 4160 carb will be jetted a little more rich, and have more adjustments for idle fuel mixture, and have less ports on it for emissions hoses. It's more of a "shoot down the middle to fit many different engines" type of carb. Your 4180 was made by Holley specifically for Ford, for your engine. It is calibrated lean for emissions, not necessarily power, and is calibrated for all that stuff to be on the engine. It's calibrated so close to the edge, that is why they covered the adjustment screws up so no one could fiddle with them. It was "EPA certified" with the screws in that position.

Believe me, it will run better and be a lot simpler to work on with the universal carb.

 

 

So what do I do with MY rebuild kit now? hehe I envy you Jnock, simple sounds really good right now. I took another look at the 'subway map to a foreign city' that is my vacuum chart:

 

The Tan Diaphram is the Vacuum Idle Step Up for Air Conditioned Trucks

 

 

Most of the time people remove the "crap" is because the computer is looking for everything to work like it did when it left the factory.
Thing is something fails, the computer freaks and the motor runs like crap. You can now not find a good part to replace the bad one so you have to remove it all and go non-computer setup.
Or some one got in there and started to remove some of it but not going full non-computer so you are stuck either going back factory that you cant get the parts for or going non-computer.

Thing is once you get the motor running good again the MPG go up and why people say it get better MPG after they removed the stuff.
That's my story and I am sticking to it
Dave ----

 

As a general rule, that is not good information. Like I said in a previous post, the carb and all that stuff on the engine is a emissions package. It all works together, and the carb is calibrated for it. There are even some intentional vacuum leaks in the system that are accounted for in the calibration of the engine. Even exhaust backpressure is factored in. It usually does not start and run as good as it does with everything working and hooked up. Either keep them stock, or ditch the whole thing and treat it like a 1960's non-smog engine.

 

Getting a look at my 4180c this morning and the backside of the throttle plate has corrosion, treat, clean, replace, ignore? it is aluminum? I will put a magnet to it later, I am labeling all the hoses that I need to remove/move. I want to drive it though! hate tearing it down just now, it started to idle while driving the last couple of days, although it still doesn't want to idle before pulling out of the carport.

 

Finding a good reman 4180 is going to be tough but the ones that rock auto sells seem ok, there is also a place in alpharetta Georgia called carburetor specialist they will ship you a hand built one or you can send them yours and they will make it new and send it back to you for a nominal fee. Another possibility is summit racing used to sell a Holley service replacement for the 4180 it was a 4160 but had all the extra vacuum connections of the 4180. You can use a universal 4160 and just figure out what vacuum lines are important and which you can plug and leave off but if you do this buy a fire extinguisher and mount it in your truck! These carbs have developed a reputation for turning trucks into bonfires. I have had it happen... twice!